Author Topic: Mark's Custom 6-string Bass  (Read 5068 times)

the_8_string_king

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(x) Price of Omega cutout in Crown Peghead
« Reply #330 on: January 02, 2007, 09:44:41 PM »
Cool, thanks Mica!

mica

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(x) Price of Omega cutout in Crown Peghead
« Reply #331 on: January 05, 2007, 06:39:06 PM »
I guess you and Val didn't get to the pricing on this feature when you spoke on the phone today. I just checked with mom, and the Omega cutout on the peghead is $300.  
 
The omega peghead cutout is not something that can just be added in some cases. It's really best to know before we cut the peghead out what the final shape will be. It may affect the placement of the front and back veneers, for instance.  
 
This is the last item that I know of that is keeping your build on hold for now. Once it's cleared, so will the path for the rest of the constuction on your bass.

mica

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(x) Price of Omega cutout in Crown Peghead
« Reply #332 on: March 13, 2007, 03:27:42 PM »
Have you decided if you want the Omega peghead or the Corwn peghead on your bass?

the_8_string_king

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(x) Price of Omega cutout in Crown Peghead
« Reply #333 on: March 13, 2007, 07:45:10 PM »
Yes, ma'am, I WOULD like to have the mini-omega feature in the peghead AND the front & rear bevel for the peghead -ASSUMING that the cost would be $550 retail ($300 for the omega, $250 for the front/rear bevel) that could/would be added to the order with Beaver and subject to his dealer discount.
 
As long as this is the case, I ask for you to go ahead with it.
 
It's killing me... but it just looks SO good, I want to have these features... I know it'll really push the looks of my bass over the top!

Bradley Young

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(x) Price of Omega cutout in Crown Peghead
« Reply #334 on: March 14, 2007, 10:07:29 AM »
All the cool kids are doing it.
 
Bradley

the_8_string_king

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(x) How much $ for a "marc's simple bass" tailpiece?
« Reply #335 on: March 10, 2007, 11:41:54 PM »
I REALLY like this idea/feature, and would be interested in adding this option... depending on the cost.  I'd prefer the Bird -but would consider/be interested in a (quote for) a Bar as well... in the event it were less expensive -which seems possible, since it's a more simple shape, and possibly easier/less costly to machine.
 
If this were under $100 extra, I'd probably get it; if it were more, then I'd have to consider it, the higher the cost, the less likely it would be I'd get it.
 
If I DID get this feature, it would eliminate any concerns over the number of screws... 3 would be fine.
 
Yeah, I really like this idea... it seems like a really cool way to further boost the already impressive sustain that Alembics are known for in general, and which results from the sustain block (and the Ebony neck laminate!)!

mica

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(x) How much $ for a "marc's simple bass" tailpiece?
« Reply #336 on: March 13, 2007, 02:20:25 PM »
Well, it's a lot more expensive thatn $100, and I don't think it's a good choice for your other concerns about tailpiece placement. The recessed routing cannot be shifted later like the tailpiece position mounted with the usual wood screws.  
 
On Marc's tailpiece, there are 2 layers of brass soldered together, but the whole thing is still anchored with wood screws.  
 
I'm not sure that the sustain will be noticeably improved, especially since if we set up the bass properly, the string shouldn't vibrate above the nut or below the bridge saddle.  
 
I would advise against this feature for your bass.

the_8_string_king

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(x) How much $ for a "marc's simple bass" tailpiece?
« Reply #337 on: March 13, 2007, 07:35:29 PM »
Okay, then, Mica.  I defer to your recommendation.  Let's pass on this option.  Thanks again for your feedback.
 
Mark

the_8_string_king

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(x) I'll want your help/input regarding the finish
« Reply #338 on: March 10, 2007, 11:29:47 PM »
Again, that pretty much says it.  I saw/heard on the Futures Channel video (as well as on this site) that Alembic offers several finish options.
 
I want to make sure I'm properly educated to make the right choice.
 
I love the finish on my Europa -which I think/assume is the high gloss finish; however, it sounds like I might like/prefer to get the satin finish on the neck...?  Is it either/or?  Can you put the satin finish OVER the glossy finish... or would it be IN PLACE of it?  And, if it's an either/or, would there be any visual/eyesore danger (pertaining to the transition from the high gloss finish of/on the body to the satin finish on the neck?
 
Is the cost the same?  Are there any potential downsides or trade-offs?
 
Yeah, when the time comes (hopefully soon), I'd appreciate your guidence/input in helping me make this decision.
 
If nothing else, I know I'd be happy with the finish my Europa has... it looks and plays awesome!  But maybe I'd be even more happy with the satin finish on the neck?  It seems to be highly regarded by some of the folks here.
 
I'm also curious about other finish options for the body -just to cover the basses- though I'm not sure if anything could top the beauty of the high gloss finish.
 
I don't think the oil finish grabs me -assuming it's what I think it is.  That's what's on Bob's Custom Rogue, right? (The one with the built-in Superfilter.)  It's a beautiful bass, but the finish wouldn't be what I'd choose.
 
So, yeah, I'd appreciate some info/help/guidence -when the time comes.
 
Thanks, Mark

Bradley Young

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(x) I'll want your help/input regarding the finish
« Reply #339 on: March 11, 2007, 10:12:10 AM »
Mark,
 
The satin finish is now standard on the neck.  Basically it is the gloss neck, sanded with 2000 grit sandpaper.  Feels really sleek.
 
I'd say go gloss with satin neck.
 
Bradley

the_8_string_king

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(x) I'll want your help/input regarding the finish
« Reply #340 on: March 11, 2007, 02:58:01 PM »
Thanks for the word, Bradley!  It sounds like this is probably what I'll want to go for.
 
At this point, the only thing left'll be to confirm it with Mica.

mica

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(x) I'll want your help/input regarding the finish
« Reply #341 on: March 13, 2007, 01:51:56 PM »
Satin neck is no additional charge. It is exactly the same paint, only the rubout is different. When it's rubbed out, the back of the neck is sanded with progressively finer and finer abrasives up to 3000 grit (it hardly even feels abrasive!).  
 
The person doing the rubout will determine the decorative aspects. Usually, the peghead is left glossy on both the front and the back. The edge or the fingerboard may be sanded satin, or it may feather into a glossy allover peghead. We've never bothered to have a standard on this, just evaluating each instrument as it's finished to decide what will look best on it.  
 
You are not allowed to have an oil finished Coco Bolo bass where you live anyway. The environment is not appropriate.  
 
Other finish choices have to do with tints and colors, also which aren't really good for your bass.  
 
So let me know if you want the work order changed to gloss finish with satin neck and I'll go and make the change.

Bradley Young

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(x) I'll want your help/input regarding the finish
« Reply #342 on: March 13, 2007, 06:55:30 PM »
quote:You are not allowed to have an oil finished Coco Bolo bass where you live anyway.
 
You're not allowed.  That just cracks me up (in a good way!).
 
When I called to order my bass, Susan said, You're not allowed to order a 6-string with the normal Mark King body.  Made me laugh, since we live in a, I'm sorry, sir, the computer won't allow me to configure your order that way/a faceless bureaucrat won't allow that... type of world these days.  Susan said, it won't be right, so I won't build it.
 
Bradley
PS- Vegas is nosebleed city (dry doesn't cover it) whenever I go there so I see why.

the_8_string_king

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(x) I'll want your help/input regarding the finish
« Reply #343 on: March 13, 2007, 07:26:47 PM »
Yes, Mica, let's go ahead and do that, please.
 
I'd like the gloss finish/satin neck combo that's now standard.  Sounds like the thing to do.
 
Thanks again for your help, gang!

the_8_string_king

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(x) I don't want binding on the continous wood plates
« Reply #344 on: March 02, 2007, 11:58:32 PM »
That sez it all.  I know I mentioned this at some point, but I wanna get it on record here.
 
I don't like binding around the continous wood plates -it interferes with the purpose, in my mind.
 
I don't like the way it looks... I want the continous wood plates to fit in as much as possible, with as little disruption as possible.
 
The point is to disguise/minimize noticing the electronics plates -and highlighting them... highlights them!