Thanks, Ho!
Mica, the more I look at this, the more I'm sold on this piece of wood!
However, as I look at it, I'm trying to envision what portions of it would look best being cut out for the top/back.
The tentative rough outline you traced looks pretty good. It looks like it would be easy for you to line up the lines in the center to disguise the BTC. But I think it might look even better (not sure) if the outline were moved up to the top (in addition to being slightly angled) so I could get more/all/most of that really cool big eye on my top -and also more concentrics on the outside.
For clarification, I'm referring to the concentric-ish large figure more or less in the dead center of the board in the picture. To the right are two adjacent little eyes I love, and also a single eye in the horn. I can't have it all, so I think we'll probably have to sacrifice the little eye in the horn when we angle it. I think I'd like it if the outline (of the horn) were lifted up to the upper (in the picture) edge of the board, and also the rest of the outline. An easier way of describing this idea might be to imagine you just shaved off an inch or two off the lower edge of the board, and lifted/angled the horn up a bit.
As I look at that board, I see 3 sections. As you go left to right (or right to left) there is a really cool section in the middle, that has the big eye in the center, and the smaller eyes to the right, and the eye in the horn. Above and below this really cool section are two mainly liney areas. Now I think I'd like to get a little more (maybe as much as possible -without sacrificing the disguised BTC objective) of this really cool area on my top/back. And again, this looks like it would also get me a little more concentric figuring by where the electronics would be (and on the mirror side).
I'd like to see a trace-line outline for what I've described, at your convenience. I tried to make a little outline-thing out of paper, but it was half-assed.
Alternatively, another thing that intrigues me would be to FLIP the outline, that is, to imagine the UPPER edge of the board (in the picture) being the center line/line of symettry. I like the pinch/pinching that's around the date 4/10/07 that you have chalked in on the board... it looks neat. The only concern would be if that figuring wouldn't line up right... BUT it looks like the fingerboard and or truss rod plate and/or pickups would be there, so it wouldn't be an issue -at least for the top. That way, you could get most of the really cool area in the middle on my top, and what you have as the outer edge would become the center, and what you have as the center would be the outer edge... and it looks like it would be full of concentrics!!! The lines on the top seem more parallel to begin with.
So in summary: (1) what you've come up with is great; however, I think I might prefer (2) shaving an inch or two off the lower inch of the board and pushing the outline up (and slightly angling the horn up a little) OR (3) FLIPPING the outline so that the UPPER edge of the board is the center instead of the lower.
At your convenience, if you could provide pictures with these outlines traced, I could probably tell you right away which I like best.
Another thought is -assuming the board is thick enough to do front and back- do it one way on the front, and the other way on the back.
I'm sorta thinking that the last option -(3)- looks like it might be the coolest -for the top. It seems like that option might get the biggest amount of the really cool area on my top.
I DO wanna make sure I get the full 1/4th of an inch thickness of Coco Bolo on each side!!!
Thanks again, Mica, I'm really excited, and this makes me feel better, what with the problem on my other bass and all!!!