Author Topic: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson  (Read 76930 times)

JimmyJ

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #870 on: March 08, 2014, 08:42:56 AM »
Thanks Jimy,
 
And you know, what I describe above is just what I've done.  With all the options available from these instruments - including our active Q controls, stereo out to different amps and/or effects processing - everybody can dial in their own unique sound.  There's no right way there's only your way.
 
You've spotted my aluminum blocks...  This happened more or less by accident and here comes the boring story.  
 
The first 5-string I got was in 1976 which was early for the low-B.  At that time GHS was selling single gauges of their hilariously named Boomers including a very heavy E-string @ .120.  So I used that along with their normal set: .45, .65, .85, .105 to string the bass.  
 
Due to the type of string, the gauges, and the way I like to set up my action, I couldn't quite get the bridge to intonate correctly.  I needed to move a couple of the saddles further towards the tailpiece but had run out of room.  So the answer was to relocate the bridge about 1/4 in that direction.
 
My dad had a great shop full of tools including tap and die sets, etc.   He did not have a chunk of brass the size of our bridge block but he did have some aluminum so we used that to make a replacement block with offset bridge mounting holes.  We didn't know if or how it might effect the sound, and truthfully I still can't say what effect the change of material has.  But I loved that first 5-string so every subsequent fretted bass I ordered from Alembic was built with an aluminum bridge block.
 
I'm sorry but I can't remember why the recording bass has a double-sized block.  We must have been going for something but I haven't got a clue.  HA!!  Whatever the reason, I do like the sound of that bass.
 
Best to everybody,
Jimmy J

rustyg61

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #871 on: March 19, 2014, 08:22:11 PM »
Hey Jimmy, I finally got around to ordering cable & connectors to build some spare 5 pin cables & was wondering which pin is the ground? I'm guessing it is pin 5 which has the black wire in Mica's picture, but I wanted to make sure since I'm using the braided shield for my ground. I don't want to use that on one of the pickup leads or the positive lead for the LED's. Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Rusty
 
Rusty
2011 SCSD
2014 "Blue Orca" Series II Europa
http://www.alembic.com/info/fc_blueorca.html

sonicus

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #872 on: March 19, 2014, 09:13:23 PM »
Hello Rusty,  
    ( sorry Jimmy )   I am not Jimmy , but the answer is PIN 1 is Ground  
This diagram  has been posted and reposted  on this site a few times so I hope I am not out of line .  
 
Wolf

edwin

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #873 on: March 19, 2014, 10:32:13 PM »
Ah, you beat me to it, Wolf! I have the exact same diagram except that mine urges me not to try to build it into an oboe. It seems like good advice so I have refrained.

JimmyJ

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #874 on: March 19, 2014, 10:38:33 PM »
Yep, Wolf is right.  Pin-1 serves as both audio ground and 0 voltage (between -15 and +15) so that should be connected to your cable's shield.  The rest of the colors don't matter as long as they agree on both ends.    Good luck with the build.
 
Jimmy J

sonicus

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #875 on: March 19, 2014, 10:40:03 PM »
HI Edwin !  __LOL __

sonicus

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #876 on: March 19, 2014, 10:43:43 PM »
HI Jimmy __

rustyg61

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #877 on: March 19, 2014, 11:25:29 PM »
Thanks Wolf, Jimmy, & Edwin! Glad I asked because obviously my assumption was wrong! I was hoping the ground would be one of the outside lugs so I didn't have to have the braided shield in the middle where it could short out on the adjacent lugs. I'm going to try to use heat shrink on each of the solder connections like Alembic does to keep the wires from fraying & shorting out on the other pins. The cable I got has 2 blue & 2 white wires & the braided shield so I will have to ohm out the wires to make sure I get the same blue & white connected to the same pins on both ends.  
 
I'm so thankful to be a part of such a knowledgeable & caring community who are always willing to help each other out! Honda used to have a slogan You meet the nicest people on a Honda! Well, Honda doesn't have ANYTHING on Alembic!
Rusty
2011 SCSD
2014 "Blue Orca" Series II Europa
http://www.alembic.com/info/fc_blueorca.html

keith_h

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #878 on: March 20, 2014, 04:46:16 AM »
Rusty. You want to split the shield so one half goes to pin 1 and the other half goes to the ground lug on the connector.  
 
Keith

rustyg61

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #879 on: March 20, 2014, 09:55:45 AM »
I was wondering about the ground lug on the connector shield, thanks!
Rusty
2011 SCSD
2014 "Blue Orca" Series II Europa
http://www.alembic.com/info/fc_blueorca.html

JimmyJ

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #880 on: March 20, 2014, 11:13:06 AM »
Ah, now we get into the details of everybody's cable building technique...  Good subject!
 
Rusty, first of all be patient and take your time, it can be pretty frustrating.  Once you start working with these small parts you will suddenly feel like a giant.  Ha!
 
What kind of cable are you using?  
 
As Keith said, splitting the shield to pin-1 and the shell is a good way to go and I believe is how the stock cables are currently built.  They use tubing or small heat shrink to insulate those twisted shield wires on the way to their destination.  They do not however use heat shrink on the other pins because there is just so little room to work inside these cable mounted plugs and jacks.  (The pic above may be from the inside of an instrument and thus separate wires converging on the jack)
 
First tip:  PUT THE STRAIN RELIEF PART ON THE CABLE BEFORE YOU START SOLDERING.  Ha!!  How many times have I made that mistake?  You get only one chance to forget, then when you start working on the other end you'd better remember.  
 
When I work on the male end of the cable I usually plug it into a female jack while soldering - because I've mistakenly overheated those pins to where they've moved in their plastic (nylon?) mounting and gone out of alignment.
 
Curious to hear other tips.  I'm in the middle of building a combo Alembic / in-ear cable right this minute...
 
Jimmy J

keith_h

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #881 on: March 20, 2014, 11:58:54 AM »
What I did for building my 5-pin Alembic cable was use a plastic jawed vice. Since it is not something I need to do often I can't justify building a jig.  
 
Mic cables on the other hand I need to repair fairly often so I built a jig for 3-pin XLR's. The jig uses panel mount male and female connectors mounted in a piece of wood. It also has some Velcro straps that I use to keep the cable from flopping all over while I work. Kind of rustic but it has worked well for me over the years.    
 
Keith

rustyg61

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #882 on: March 20, 2014, 12:56:39 PM »
Thanks so much for the instructions Jimmy! I'm using Canare L-4E6S I got from NY Pro Audio
 
http://www.nyproaudio.com/servlet/the-2051/CANARE-L-dsh-4E6S-STAR-QUAD/Detail
 
I got the gold pin Neutrik connectors you suggested from Markertek  
 
http://www.markertek.com/Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Connectors/XLR-Connectors/Neutrik-USA-Inc/NC5FRX-B.xhtml
 
http://www.markertek.com/Cables/Computer-Data-Cables/DMX-Cables/Neutrik-USA-Inc/NC5MX-B.xhtml
 
Even though I know better, I already cut the insulation off the 1st end of the cable before I slid the strain relief on! No worries though, I haven't soldered anything yet so I can still put it on.
 
Great idea to use the other jack as a heat sink! I have also melted my share of connectors from using a soldering gun that was way over powered for the job. I just bought a soldering iron so hopefully I won't get these too hot.  
 
I have been using this jig with 2 alligator clips since high school to build cables. You can put the jack in one clip & use the other clip to hold the cable in place while you solder. Both clips rotate & swivel in all directions so it's easy to get everything right where you want it. I twisted all the braided shield into one conductor before I read Keith's post about separating it into 2, so I'll have to do that. I have some small heat shrink that I can use on the braided wires.  
 
I have some super reader glasses I use when I check the action & relief on my neck so I can see the tiny marks on my Stew Mac guage. They are like looking through a magnifying glass so it's easy to see really small stuff. I will use them for this project too.
 
Thanks again for the tutorial! Here's some pics of my soldering jig & parts.
 


 
 


Rusty
2011 SCSD
2014 "Blue Orca" Series II Europa
http://www.alembic.com/info/fc_blueorca.html

jazzyvee

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #883 on: March 20, 2014, 01:30:37 PM »
Blue cable to match the new bass... good move.  
Jazzyvee
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JimmyJ

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Re: Jimmy "Flim" Johnson
« Reply #884 on: March 20, 2014, 03:07:07 PM »
Let me state a couple more obvious things only because it seems you're new to the 5-pin thing...  
 
When looking at the soldering side of the two connectors, remember that they are mirror images.  When looking at them as a big smile, pin-1 of the Male connector is top right while pin-1 of the Female connector is top left.  I am constantly looking at my own scribbled color chart so I don't get turned around.
 
That star-quad cable leaves you with one other important task.  It was designed to be used as normal mic cable with two conductors per pin.  That's why you have two white wires and two blue wires.  For YOUR purposes, you need four separate conductors and so you'll need to find which is which at either end.  I suggest you go ahead and make one end and then use a continuity tester to figure out which is which at the other end.  Go slow, use a permanent marker, write it down, double check, etc...
 
I also have one of those giant magnifying lens lamps which I now need to solder anything.  It allows me to get my face close enough without the risk of flying lava...
 
Jimmy J
 
Oh, here's a link to the official assembly instructions for those clever right angle plugs...  (Auto-download pdf)
http://www.neutrik.com/zoolu-website/media/download/126/Assembly+Instruction+-+XLR+RX+Series