Rusty,
If you use a center indent pot then your bass would go to 20! Oh, not for volume, never mind. Actually, a center indent in the Q boost control would act like a Series-I's 3-way toggle. A Series-1.5?
Edwin,
I change strings a lot. Here is my method:
One at a time I remove the old string. Align the tuning peg's slot parallel to the strings. Hook the new string on the tailpiece pin, pull it taught, wind it by hand 1-1/2 times around the tuning peg, bend it down through the slot and bend the excess in the opposite direction.
Then before I pull it up to pitch it has been my habit to put a twist into the string from the ball-end side. I slip it off the pin, turn it 1/2 turn or so and put it back. Another reference to my dad - when he restrung pianos he would always put a twist in the bass strings in the direction of the winding. I don't know if this was taught to him or he just made it up, but the idea was to keep the winding tight.
But piano strings are simply one winding around a core and our strings are multiple windings. So generally I twist G, D and A in the direction as their outer windings, the low-B I relieve and then turn slightly the same way to get it on the pin, and the E usually gets a turn in the opposite direction. And it doesn't always work? But if you have an E that rattles on its own - not a fret rattle but a built in rattle in the string - you can often get it to stop by putting a twist in one way or the other.
I would imagine that too much twist would cause the string to act squirrelly so relieving them as Edwin does is probably smart.
Oh, once the strings are up to pitch I either trim off the excess or bend it around so the sharp end doesn't get me.
That's tonight's tale.
Jimmy J