Author Topic: Planning next Alembic teach me about Series Electronics. (Read 334 times)

dtrice · « **Reply #15 on:** February 15, 2007, 02:47:37 PM »

This is just a question about my Alembic. I want to run it in stereo, so I plugged it in through my rik-o-sound box to split the signal. Only the treble went through however. What kind splitters do you guys use?

kenbass4 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 15, 2007, 03:47:48 PM »

Daniel,

Did you flip your stereo switch from mono to stereo? I'm assuming you're using your spider.

Ken

dtrice · « **Reply #17 on:** February 18, 2007, 09:56:29 PM »

Yeah, I'll try it again this. Maybe I hooked up something wrong in my signal chain. But the Rick-o-sound box should work as well as any Y-splitter right? Any Rick lovers out there know?

lbpesq · « **Reply #18 on:** February 19, 2007, 09:21:56 AM »

Before I sold my Ricky 360/12, I used the Rick-O-Sound box on my '76 Series I. It worked perfectly.

Bill, tgo

dtrice · « **Reply #19 on:** February 25, 2007, 09:58:18 AM »

Why did you sell your 360/12? I would love to have one or a 370/12 in the future. I'll try the Rick-o-Sound again.

lbpesq · « **Reply #20 on:** February 25, 2007, 10:52:32 AM »

Daniel:

Don't get me wrong, the 360/12 is a wonderful guitar. The problem, for me, was the width of the fretboard. The 360/12 uses the same neck as the 360, it isn't widened at all to fit the 12 strings. As a result I found the string spacing to be too cramped. It was very difficult to play arpeggios cleanly. Instead I'm now using a Fender Strat 12 into which I have installed Alembic pickups, filter and 3-way Q switch. The neck is significantly wider than the Ricky, and thus, for me, far more playable. I do miss the Ricky jangle though. Nothing sounds better on the intro of Mr. Tambourine Man than a Ricky.

Bill, tgo

dtrice · « **Reply #21 on:** February 25, 2007, 01:19:18 PM »

I can imagine. I wonder if it would be proper to have Alembic fashion a body and neck and install Rickenbacker pickups. Using specific combinations of wood, wouldn't it be possible to replicate the unique Rick sound but with the feel and craftsmanship of Alembic? I was considering doing something similar with a 4-string bass. To me that would be the ideal instrument, because Ricks are favorite sounding basses, but I can't get used to their feel.

David Houck · « **Reply #22 on:** February 25, 2007, 02:46:34 PM »

I believe the general answer is no, Alembic does not put non-Alembic pickups and electronics in their instruments.

2400wattman · « **Reply #23 on:** February 25, 2007, 11:56:44 PM »

Daniel, my band plays the Southport Hall every 3-4 months and you are welcome to come and check out my Series 1 through my rig ( F1-x+Super Filter into a Crown K-2 into an SVT).Now I don't know about anybodyelse but that should give you a pretty good idea about Series basses.

dtrice · « **Reply #24 on:** April 10, 2007, 03:26:52 PM »

After doing some thinking. I noticed that according to the quote generator, I can get a series I bass and add LEDs & Ebony Lams. and upgrade to Series II electronics for like $3,000 less than just buy a Series II with the same set up. I mean is gold hardware and continous wood back plate worth another $3,000? I don't think it's really necessary, or am I not considering something? I'd rather save the $3,000 and spend it on something else. I've heard that since Series instruments are powered by continuous power (rather than battery) the LEDs operated all of the time. Is true or is this an option? I was wondering if Alembic could add a dimmer knob, so that I could control how bright they were. Is this possible? The Quote generator told me I'm looking at about a $20,000 bass [retail better less! ], so let the saving begin! By the way I'm planning on a Triple-O with Quilted maple top and ebony laminates. Anybody have a better recomendation? I can't wait to have my $15,000-20,000 ready. I just hope for no more prices hikes, please.

mica · « **Reply #25 on:** April 10, 2007, 04:58:55 PM »

Usually the Series I and II instruments have the LEDs come on when the 5-pin cable is inserted. You can have a brightness control installed or an on/off switch (but there's already alot of controls on a Series II so keep that in mind).

You can power the Series I/II by internal batteries, but the LEDs do not illuminate when you use the batteries and the 1/4 jack.

The difference between a Series II and I is that the Series II will have goldplated hardware instead of chrome plated hardware, continuous wood backplates instead of chrome plated brass, inlaid logo with shell instad of a sterling silver logo, side LEDs, CVQ instead of 3-position Q switches, and a master volume.

We always think it's better to spend on the sound before the decorations.

dtrice · « **Reply #26 on:** April 11, 2007, 04:55:58 PM »

Thank for taking the time to answer my questions, Mica. While I do enjoy the cosmetic effect of gold hardware and continuous wood backplate I don't believe they make any tonal difference and do not justify price for me. But let me clarify what I am wondering, If I ordered a Series I and upgraded the electronics to Series II, would it be fair to say that tonally I would indeed have a Series II? Basically a Series II in Series I clothing? Or is there something dealing with tone that can only be obtained by ordering a Series II outright? Thanks for any advice!

mica · « **Reply #27 on:** April 11, 2007, 05:04:27 PM »

A Series I with Series II electronics is just that: a Series I with Series II electronics. It really shouldn't sound any different than a Series II, but it wouldn't be accurate to call it a Series II.

Wooden backplates will be lighter weight than the plated brass ones.

dtrice · « **Reply #28 on:** April 12, 2007, 10:44:08 AM »

Understood, Mica. Thanks a lot for your imput. I'm going to start saving for it now. I can't wait for my next Alembic project.