I'm not sure the fix will be this simple. It looks like the strings are running straight and parallel from the tailpiece to the bridge. If you recut the G saddle to fix this problem, then the run from the bridge to tailpiece won't be a straight shot. This will work, but it really begs the question if something else is wrong.
I could be wrong, but I would guess that the saddle slotting procedure is to string up the bass and let the natural string position identify the point to slot the saddle. The positions that this bridge is slotted at looks very similar to how mine look.
You might want to stop reading at this point.
It looks like the spacing at the nut is a little tight on the G side, but not way off. So, I think what you probably want to do is get a long (3') straightedge and see if there's a problem with the straightness of the neck (gulp). I think there might be a warp in the neck that's putting the headstock to the E side. You can see in the pictures that the strings aren't running over the centers of the inlays either, another sign that something is seriously wrong.
If the neck has been refinished or feels assymetrical it's possible that the neck profile was shaved down too much, although it would be weird to shave a neck's width like this. If somebody was trying to make the neck narrower, they would have to take it off the G side because of the markers on the E side.
If the neck is warped like this, a fix is pretty complicated. If you can tolerate narrowed spacing you can recut the saddles and either live with non-parallel runs to the tailpiece or get a new tailpiece made.
I hope I'm wrong on this one.
David Fung