There's other more-qualified members who can explain ohm-age properly than myself.
In the real world, pay VERY good attention to FC's chart.
Make sure at what minimum ohms YOUR amp operates: Virtually all bass amps (Ampeg, Eden, SWR, and on and on) and commercial power amps (the Crests, Crowns, Stewarts, etc.) will operate at a 4 ohm load. A lot of amps will operate at 2, and you occasionally find a very few that will not go below 8 (the old Yamaha P Series power amps from the 80s come to mind, and others). You also find (usually) tube amps that have a selectable output selector, so be sure that control matches your cab(s). If you run a power amp in bridged mode, remember that they often bridge at one ohm value only, even though in stereo they will operate fine at several different values. You want to obey the manufacturer's suggested spec, period.
As far as the cabinet side goes, the higher the impedance of the cab, the more of them you can run: You could run 2 8-ohm cabs (equals 4 ohms) instead of one 1 4-ohm cab off the same amp. This is a cheap(er) way to get louder, as you get the same bump in db level (+3db) doubling cabs as you would in doubling the power of your amp (500w to 1000w). This is why a Marshall stack with both cabs sounds so much louder than a half-stack. And why you can move earth with the original SVT setup (300w head and TWO 810 cabs) instead of simply rattling the bottles behind the bar with a single 810.
J o e y