Author Topic: Back of the neck of my Orion 6 (Read 455 times)

NachoGomez · « **on:** October 08, 2013, 01:30:39 PM »

Hello everyone!

I have an Orion Bass 6 ordered in December '98 and received in '99. I've been using it moderately in Valencia, Venezuela (hot and humid weather) since then.

A few years ago, the back of the neck started feeling sticky, even if I clean it with the Ken Smith Pro Formula it still feels sticky and with the time it has become a little bit annoying to play the bass. I don't know if this is some kind of finish added to protect the wood of the neck from sweat or moisture. Something I've noticed is that this finish can be easily scratched with the fingernail and even it could be removed if scratched enough.

Also, the back of the neck is now a little bit yellowish compared to the back of the headstock. I'll try to take a good picture of these parts when I get home.

Another thing I've noticed is that you can feel the different laminates in the back of the neck when you sweep your fingers through it, I've read elsewhere (I believe it was in this forum a few years ago) that this use happens around 10 years after manufactured and can be just sanded away by a good luthier or even by Alembic.

By the moment I'm just concerned about the stickiness of the back of the neck, is it possible to fix this? or, is it necessary to refinish it?

Thanks in advance for any advise/help you can provide me

Regards

Nacho

NachoGomez · « **Reply #1 on:** October 09, 2013, 07:07:02 PM »

Here are the pics of my bass, I didn't realized how difficult is to take a picture that shows the color difference between the back of the neck and the back of the headstock (I'm a lousy photographer)

Here you can see that the neck is yellower that the headstock (Is not different lightning, this is the picture closest to reality that I could have taken)

Another angle of the same part

I've discovered this whitish stains near the 17th fret, I don't know what they are

Full picture of my Bass

A closeup of the wenge top laminate Again, thanks in advance for any help/info you can provide to me... Nacho (Message edited by nachogomez on October 09, 2013)

mikedm · « **Reply #2 on:** October 09, 2013, 09:09:46 PM »

Hi Nacho and welcome to the club.

That's a nice Orion.

A refinish is always an option. Personally I would first try a different polish. I don't use any of the polishes named in this link, but it may give you some ideas. Ken Smith's polish is described in the article.

I had the same experience with the necks of my Alembics. Never bothered me enough to worry about it once I knew it was to be expected as the bass aged. Oddly enough, on one of the basses it became a way for me to tell if my thumb was in the right spot along the length of the neck.

It may seem like a drastic idea, but a light sanding with a very fine grit sanding paper might be an other solution. Take care to not expose the wood. If that doesn't satisfy you then visiting a luthier might cure all of your concerns.

best of luck,
Mike

lbpesq · « **Reply #3 on:** October 09, 2013, 11:27:27 PM »

I've given several of my guitars a satin finish on the neck using 0000 steel wool. You should first mask the rest of the instrument as the pickups will attract small pieces of the steel wool. A light rubbing is usually all that's required. You'll will find the satin finished neck to be much faster than a shiny finish.

Bill, tgo

neyman · « **Reply #4 on:** October 10, 2013, 07:51:58 AM »

I had the same problem with my Orion 5 string. A couple of passes with 0000 steel wool and problem solved!

NachoGomez · « **Reply #5 on:** October 10, 2013, 09:31:18 AM »

Hey folks, thank you very much for your responses.

Mike: Great link about polishes, I didn't know anything about the Ken Smith formula but it seems to be pretty innocuous according to Ken's description, although I'm not sure if the finish of my bass is oil based so maybe in this case is worth trying another type or brand. I'm going to explore the sanding options carefully, I'll let you know what I ended up doing.

Bill & Neyman: Good advise, thanks. I think the 0000 steel wool is a good option to start, I think it'll be less abrasive than most sand papers.

BTW: Does anyone know what is the standard finish for Alembic's necks? Or at least for Orions?

Again, thank you very much for your advices and for sharing your experiences with me.

Regards...

Nacho

mikedm · « **Reply #6 on:** October 10, 2013, 10:48:47 AM »

There you have it: steel wool would be better than sand paper.

My Orion had an all-over satin finish. Faster feel on the neck, as Bill alluded to. The other two had a glossy finish. They did feel slower, more drag if you will. Also the drag was more pronounced when the temperature was up and my hands were sweaty. I guess you could call that sticky.

mica · « **Reply #7 on:** October 10, 2013, 01:16:13 PM »

I'm more inclined to use the 0000 Scotch Brite as small little shard of the steel can fly everywhere, including your electronics cavity. Just really be careful if you go the steel route.

Also, the finish on the Orion from that year is polyurethane all over and VERY thin. It won't take any time at all to bust down to the wood so again, go slowly.

On the edge near the 17th fret, is it possible that finish is chipped or worn down to the naturally whiter color of the wood?

lbpesq · « **Reply #8 on:** October 11, 2013, 09:34:16 AM »

Mica is right about the little steel wool shards - that's why I mask off the entire body first. I haven't heard of the 0000 Scotch Brite - I'll have to try that next time. Thanks for the tip, Mica!

Bill, tgo

NachoGomez · « **Reply #9 on:** October 11, 2013, 11:54:48 AM »

Good tips Mica, thanks...

I'll try to do that this week end.

On the edge near the 17th fret, it is a little bit worn down, I've just realized this is the place where the bass stand touches the neck, I'll have to take special care of this part. Do you have any recommendation to prevent this from getting bigger? By the moment I'll adjust the height of the stand.

Thanks, Nacho...

(Message edited by nachogomez on October 11, 2013)

funkyjazzjunky · « **Reply #10 on:** October 11, 2013, 12:17:50 PM »

What other company has one of the owners help a client with a 15 year old product! Alembic rules

NachoGomez · « **Reply #11 on:** October 11, 2013, 12:24:54 PM »

You are completely right Funkyjazzjunky! Alembic has an outstanding support over any other company I've worked with!!!

Thank you so much guys!!!

David Houck · « **Reply #12 on:** October 11, 2013, 06:46:13 PM »

I always put a polishing cloth on the stand where it touches the neck.

NachoGomez · « **Reply #13 on:** October 17, 2013, 09:00:12 AM »

Mica,

Sorry to bother you again, but I'd like to know if these are the pads you've mentioned above and if not, if this will do the job

Thanks again!

Nacho

keith_h · « **Reply #14 on:** October 17, 2013, 10:23:19 AM »

Nacho,
You are referencing Steel Wool. This would not be recommended as it can leave metal tailings on the pickups. I think Mica is referring to this or something similar. They come in different grits. Here is a chart I found online for the various pads.

SCOTCHBRITE GRIT CHART
3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M Chart
Less Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445 7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer Finish --------> Coarser Finish