Author Topic: For Harrison  (Read 628 times)

mica

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For Harrison
« on: January 08, 2003, 03:31:14 PM »
Here's some of that really nice Bird's-eye Maple I told you about on the phone. It's hard to see, but it's lightly quilted all over, and the Bird's-eyes are well distributed.  
 

Paul Lindemans (palembic)

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For Harrison
« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2003, 05:44:17 AM »
Hi MIca,
 
that's a nice piece of nature-art.
I wonder if it would be possible to make a guitar -f.i. a SII 5 EVH body shape (with the longer upper horn), a Orion peghead 3/2- , the top and back capping in this wood and covering the neck-through construction, the core of the body in a nice highly figured burled dark Walnut, the neck maple/walnut deluxe lamination, the peghead front and back capped in this bird's eye maple, BUT ALSO THE FINGERBOARD IN BIRDS-EYE MAPLE??? Let assume some inlaywork in Ebony as fingerposition marks, let's say the standard ovals?
How does this sound? Pretty neat huh?
Sorry to Harrison for messing-up maybe his purposes for this wood.
 
Paul

mica

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For Harrison
« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2003, 01:17:55 PM »
Paul - you're so creative! But I have to say we have quite an aversion to maple fingerboards here - they always looks so dirty so soon, even if they look cool when they are new.   For Harrison, I talked with Marcus about the control layout and here are two quick versions of what we discussed:  

 left row: vol, filter, bass,treble for neck pickup, output jack middle row: vol, filter, bass,treble for bridge pickup right row: neck Q, bridge Q  

 This is the same basic idea but with the Q switches on the left.   There's not a lot of options for arranging this many controls on this small a body. Plus, I still have to get the  OK from dad that what's behind these knobs will fit in the cavity (it's certainly going to have a custom backplate shape). Let me know if you've got a preference or an alternate idea.  You could gain a little more flexibility using the switches instead of the knobs for the bass and treble function.

Harrison Calhoun (bigh)

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« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2003, 06:05:23 PM »
Mica,
 
I'm starting to get worried about the knob and switch situation. There's even more bad news: Your suggestions are missing the standby, mono/stereo, and LED switches! At least we can gain some space with the side mounted jack. I was also thinking that the Q toggles should be between the volumes and the Q knobs.
 
Would a Europa body have more real estate to work with? Maybe a blend of Rogue and Europa - the Eu-Rogue-a (top part Rogue, bottom part Europa).
 
Another option is to have the 2 rows follow the contour of the body - 2 crescent rows. The remaining switches could be somewhere south of the bridge. What do you think?
 
Harrison

mica

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For Harrison
« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2003, 06:48:18 PM »
The quote I faxed to Larry Morgan Music did not include a side mounted jack. It's not an available option on the 20th Anniversary without a plate mounted jack (and at least $300 upgrade (there are several plate styles to choose from)).  
 
From our last conversations, I was under the impression you were not willing to evaluate a larger  body shape in order to keep the tone most Phil-like. There is certainly enough room to put the electronics you want on a Rogue shape like Susan's Purple Princess.  You can switch to this template for no additional charge. If you would like a new template, that'll be $350.  
 
The next step here is to decide what is the priority for this bass:
 
A. The look and sound impact of the design based on Phil's Rogue. This restricts what will fit in the bass.
 
B. The electronics layout. This restricts what body can be used.
 
C. Price. Adding more features makes the bass get more pricey.
 
Tell me what's most important to you and we'll work from there. Something's gotta give because I don't think all the requirements will work on one bass.

Harrison Calhoun (bigh)

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« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2003, 04:36:52 PM »
Mica,
 
I went and spent some time at Larry Morgan's this weekend and I think we got it nailed down. Marcus should have faxed you our results. Let me know if the knob/switch placement is do-able.
 
Thanks,
 
Harrison

mica

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For Harrison
« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2003, 09:40:51 AM »
Hi Harrison,  
 
I got Marcus' email on Saturday and my first look at it seems like the layout will work - still gotta run it by dad and then make sure the Bird's-eye board will fir the new shape. Should have those answers for you a little later today.

Harrison Calhoun (bigh)

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For Harrison
« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2003, 10:52:26 AM »
Hi, Mica,
 
Since we are having to go to the modified Rogue body to accomodate the electronics I wanted to ping you to measure the walnut boards we talked about for the top. Let me know your thoughts about how walnut will compare to the maple. I know it's straying from our original goal of replicating Phil's bass but the new body requirement may change too many variables. Also, since the walnut is a top I'd prefer (for looks) I'd like your informed point of view on its effect as a top wood.
 
(For those who don't know, Phil is a phenomenal player and friend of mine here in Dallas who has perhaps the most amazing sounding bass I've ever heard.)
 
Thanks,
 
Harrison

mica

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For Harrison
« Reply #8 on: February 05, 2003, 12:39:20 PM »
The spacing between the rows on the bitmap Marcus emailed to me will need to be slightly increased, but there is plenty of room for that on the larger Rogue. I'd also suggest reversing the standby and the output jack. If you're concerned about the right angle polug hitting other controls as you feed it up through your strap, then let's just keep everything out of the way.  
 
Sorry on the BEM - won't do the wide body. 227 is reserved for you. I verified the width with the shop and it's probably big enough for a bookmatch to center on this bass.  
 
Tone-wise walnut is rather neutral - not particularly bright or dark. If you really like the bright agressive edge of Phil's bass, you should stick with a Maple top. Wanut won't hurt the tone at all, but it won't add to the attack either.  

Harrison Calhoun (bigh)

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For Harrison
« Reply #9 on: February 06, 2003, 10:58:22 AM »
Mica,
 
I look forward to seeing your knob/jack suggestions. Feel free to move all controls as far away from the pickups and bridge as you want but maintain aesthetic appeal.
 
After talking with Phil, I'm still leaning towards the walnut so let's stick with that for now.
 
Thanks,
 
Harrison

Harrison Calhoun (bigh)

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For Harrison
« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2003, 03:50:20 PM »
Mica,
 
Are you going to be able to get a mock up of the controls for my bass? Also, I left you a message with a question about the filters being before or after the bass and treble. Is that even relevant?
 
Thanks,
 
Harrison

mica

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For Harrison
« Reply #11 on: February 19, 2003, 09:40:29 AM »
I received your email about the filter and bass and treble controls Monday afternoon. Your question was beyond my expertise and so I had to consult with my father.  
 
quote:I had a thought over the weekend...just one!  Since my bass will have both a filter and a bass&treble per pickup, do they have to come in a particular order  
in the signal chain or not? What I mean is, what is the difference if the filter comes before the B&T versus the other way around? Is it even a valid question?
 
The short answer is: it doesn't matter.
 
The longer explaination is that each control acts by multiplying the transfer function. When you're multiplying, the order doesn't matter. It would be relevant if there was a subtracting funtion, for example.
 
My mock up is just as yours, only I switched the position of numbers14 and 6 on your fax.  
 

 
left row:
neck vol
neck Q
neck filter
neck bass
neck treble
1/4 output
 
middle row:
bridge vol
bridge Q
bridge filter
bridge bass
bridge treble
 
right row:
LED on/off
mono/stereo
standby

Harrison Calhoun (bigh)

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For Harrison
« Reply #12 on: April 11, 2003, 06:27:28 AM »
Mica,
 
I wanted to follow up on my phone call to you the other day. Let me know when you bookmatch the walnut top (#227). I'd like to make sure we get the maximum effect from the figuring before it gets shaped for the body.
 
Thanks,
 
Harrison

mica

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For Harrison
« Reply #13 on: April 11, 2003, 05:16:51 PM »
Well you're in luck because Kris is ready to glue up the body on Monday. I lef thim a note to check with me before he does so I can relate your preferences to him.  Here's the top, oriented two ways:  

 

  I like the bottom one better for the body shape you've chosen, the contrasting colors and wiggly figure are more interesting. It's not too late to add a bookmatch to center option to your order, Mary and my mom both asked me if you were getting one on this bass as I was photographing the wood.

wayne

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For Harrison
« Reply #14 on: April 13, 2003, 07:44:57 PM »
Harrison-
 
For what it's worth....I agree with Mica.  Take the bottom orientation and bookmatch to center.  I can just see the lower curve of the body lining up with the figuring and the bridge sitting right in the middle of the explosioin.
 
C-Ya........wayne
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