Author Topic: Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic  (Read 829 times)

Jazzy Vee (jazzyvee)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« on: June 16, 2002, 11:21:27 AM »
Curretly I use a Musicman Sterling 4 string bass and am considering changing it and getting the bass of my dreams an Alembic Stanley Clarke model.
 
I played one yesterday in a music store in the UK and was immediately taken with the instrument it has the juiciest sound imaginable it's like Lisa Nichole Carson instead of Halle Berry.... I digress but....
 I notice it is different from the brown bass that I've seen on stanley's albums as it does not include the large rotary switch on the bass horn.  
 
Do you know what that is and what it does for the sound?. The shop I visited only has the SC Standard and to see another model is like. I would have to travel about 120 miles to another store. So I'd just like to know what that does before making my mind up.
 
 
 

Michael Delacerda (dela217)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2002, 05:12:08 PM »
The switch you are talking about is a pickup selector switch.   On the newer Alembics the switch is moved to a different spot.

Hidehiro Tsubakihara (bassstar)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #2 on: June 16, 2002, 08:40:55 PM »
I have the '87 SC model it has no PU selector.
But it has four nobs, volume, PU balance, front freq, rear freq.
I think that bass you played same as my bass's controls.

Jazzy Vee (jazzyvee)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2002, 04:28:47 AM »
Thanks for the info guys.

mica

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2002, 09:25:32 AM »
Sometimes there is confusion around the Stanley Clarke Model. Stanley usually plays a Series I short scale model. To confirm if the bass you played was a Signature model, check the serial number. All Stanley Clarke Signatures will have either SC or SJ in the serial number. If there  is no letter code in the number, you're probably playing a Series I or II.  
 
We moved the pickup selector because in 1972 the lower horn was a convenient out-of-the-way place to put it. Of course, this was in the days before slap! That knob was right on the front lines then, and had to be moved for safety's sake, you really don't want to rake over that while slapping.
 
Even Stanley let us move the pickup selector on his two newest Series I basses.

Jazzy Vee (jazzyvee)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #5 on: July 07, 2002, 06:42:27 AM »
One of the things I notice about the SC Model is that it is quite noticeably top heavy and I find that I have to regularly adjust the position of the strap when playing standing up.
 
I assume this is probably due to the position of the trap peg being at the base of the neck and not on the horn as is usual.
 
 
Is this a common problem and can you offer any solutions to help the bass be balanced in use.
 
The only way I have currently found to minimise this is to lean back slightly whilst playing so that the bass rests more against my stomach than usual.
 
But this tends to be uncomfortable after a while and and it a bit posey  

mica

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #6 on: July 07, 2002, 02:39:19 PM »
It's actually much more neck heavy if you change the position of the strap holder to the upper horn. I see basses come in for restoration with a hole in the upper horn, and the strap holder moved right back to the heel.  
 
Other tips:  
 
Use a wide leather strap (3 or so) with a rough suede underside. It will sort of stick to your shoulder and not ride down as quickly.  
 
Many short scale players tend to wear their basses a little higher than average.  
 
Our distributor in the Netherlands has all his short scale basses fit with the strap holder slightly up the neck from the base to ease the balance issue (this also somewhat restricts upper fret access).  
 
If balance is a key issue, it's usually best to lean toward bodies with a longer upper horn (the closer to the 12th fret the better). The Essence, Europa, Rogue, and Elan body shapes are all excellent balancers. One of the finest is a surprise: the Exploiter shape is one of the best balancing shapes we offer.
 
I suppose you can understand why we don't offer the Small Standard shape in anything but a short scale.

Jonathan Johnstone (stoney)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #7 on: July 23, 2002, 11:50:56 AM »
I've owned 3 SC small body standard Alembics. I have found that moving the strap pin up the neck about an inch will do it and a wider strap will secure your baby. Doing this will put the strap pin at nearly a 45 degree angle to the neck so there's plenty of room for your screw.  Is is restrictive?  Depends on your style. If you tend to be up on the higher register all night long, it may. I use a lot of Entwistle/Clarke material and it doesn't seem to bother me. After you get used to working around it, it sure beats holding the neck up all night long.

Jazzy Vee (jazzyvee)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #8 on: August 01, 2002, 10:15:52 AM »
Hmm, I decided to try the wider strap with a rough under side as I'm not keen on the idea of moving the strap holder and this seems to be working fairly well and not dropping down fast. but I guess it's a matter of getting used to it.
 
On another point. Bass is really my second instrument and I absolutely adore the sound of this SC bass, to the point that I have now changed from playing guitar in one of the bands I'm in, to playing bass and we have now got a new guitarist.
However, I'm still having a problems nderstanding the tone controls and the Q switches which makes
getting to a particular sound quickly to cater for different songs and feels difficult.
 
I find that I have to keep adjusting the knobs during the song to try find what I want rather than just confidently and knowledgeably whizzing the knobs and switches to dial in a Clarkee type sound, a Reggae bass, slapping or walking bass tone etc.
 
Do you have something like diagrams with knob positions based on a clock hand positions 1 to 12  
and switchings up or down for each pickup control to get a particular tone?  
I think it would be helpful as a new user.
 
Anyway better go or I'll be late for rehearsal.
 
 

Charles David Tichenor (alembic76407)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #9 on: August 01, 2002, 12:46:56 PM »
The Comfort Strap is the way to go

Paul Lindemans (palembic)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #10 on: September 09, 2002, 07:50:51 AM »
Hi Jazzy,
about the Stanley Clark. It's not in the discussion right now but you have to understand that Stanley plays a Series I or II. There is a big difference with the Signature model, e.a. how the tone of the guitar is shaped. That has to do with the type of EQ the guitar has. A Signature guitar has 2 High-quality Humbuckers. A original Series I or II -the ones SC uses- has two giant SINGLE COILS with a modest hum-cancelling  so-called pick-up between them. That's why you will see SC with a 3 pick-up Alembic. The EQ on a SI and SII is completely different in approaching the thing = sound. If you read the Alembic history about it than you will learn that in the old hippie days Alembic provided a group called Gratefull Dead (with the late Jerry Garcia) and Jefferson Airplane with complete PA systems. Those guys wanted to have an extremely loud but also an extremely clean and controllable sound. That's why the Alembicians -the honourable Ron Wickersham in the first place- went into the sound-shaping concept of the guitar itself to re-think the whole thing!
 
Conclusive: the sound differs absolutely (think Fender versus Gibson) but the Alembicians did a great job to try to close the gap and made with the Stanley Clark Signature a wonderfull (and less costly) alternative for the original thing.
 
Now about changing the sound of your bass with the flick of the finger.  
 
Sit back while you read this and maybe take the bass with you, plug it in but for best understanding you'll need a cabinet with a horn or tweeter.
The SCS has a volume and a pan knob. So theoretically you can pan with constant volume between bridge and necl PU. That's a way to change dramatically your tone.
By the way: this is the first difference with the original design I mentioned earlier, an SI or II has 2 volume knobs so you acctually add the sound of the 2 pick-ups one to each other with an ovrall volume change as a consequence (that's why a SII has a general volume knob). Try this with your bass with the toneknobs to bass = zero and the small Q-switches in upward position.
Put volume knob full and and change while playing from brigde to neck PU (Alkembic should start making us a third hand). Now by changing the tone controls you'll see that they are really powerfull just try to turn them around to add more high. The small Qswitches for each PU are actually cutting or boosting a small (high) tone range of the output of your PU with a certain db (I think it's 9). When you play a cabinet with a horn you'll hear the difference. So if you sit down and wail around for a while you will be able to shape your preffered sound.
I don't have to learn you playing but keep in mind that th esound of the bass is actually formed a whole end further from you cabinet and amplifier. The 'Q' switches are coming in very handy to keep the bass-sound in shape so each note is still on his place when it reaches the audience. Don't think too fast that you putting in to much high, the high tones are easily lost in the wall of sound of the band.
 
Now, changing while playing from one song to another to a well precised sound is not that easy but it comes with trial and error. Goin to a low-reggae sound could be done by turning the pan to the neck position and flicking off the Q-switch so the high-sounds are not let through anymore. Going back to the other position depends on how fast it has to happen. Visually you have to remind how it was before.
Now you have to understand that every Alembic has a tremenduous response on HOW you play it! Changing position of your hands is immediately translated in another sound.
That's the main reason why Stanley started with an Alembic on the first place. His sound comes from his hands: he plays really above the neck, like playing a double-bass plucking the strings and let rattle what rattles. Another part of his sound comes from a special position of the Toneknob of the bridge (and neck) PU: try this: turn the pan to the bridge PU, put the tone control to zero (bass), activate the Q-switch, now turn (while playing) the tone-control slowly up to bright (you'll need 3 hands to do this but that's why we are bass-players no?). You'll meet a point that gives a quacking sound. If you like the sound turn the pan to add the neck pick-up and also choose a sound there. If you fumble around a bit you can get really close.
Remember an Alembic is for well determined and sound-focused players. When mastering the guitar you'll discovering you'll mastering also a lot about your focus in music and as a band member: have fun.  
 
Paul

Michael Delacerda (dela217)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #11 on: September 09, 2002, 08:16:24 AM »
Paul - Well said!  These electronics are VERY versatile and can be complicated to someone picking up one of these basses for the first time.  
 
What you are describing is exactly why I love the series II electronics.  The sound can be shaped infinately with the variable q switches and with the tone controls.  Then with the two volumes and the master, things get really exciting.  I love it!  I turn my gain up on my amp very high and use my master on my bass to control the overall volume since my volume between my bridge and neck pickup varies with the song being played.  If I need to cut through the mix I give it more bridge, and increase the overall volume.  More bass, I do the opposite.

Michael Paskel (Mikey) (pookeymp)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #12 on: September 09, 2002, 10:03:02 AM »
Hey Paul,
 
This info is great...I just received my Mark King this past weekend and was also a bit perplexed with the controls.  While performing yesterday, I actually had my 14 year old son stand next to me and randomly turn knobs and switch switches until he came across the sound that I felt worked, and was afraid to touch the controls again.
 
I printed this thread out and will go home tonight and try to educate myself.
 
Thanks.
 
Mikey/

Jonathan Johnstone (stoney)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #13 on: September 09, 2002, 11:40:58 AM »
Now there's a new approach!!  Do you rent out your son by the hour or by the gig?

Michael Paskel (Mikey) (pookeymp)

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Buying A Stanley Clarke Alembic
« Reply #14 on: September 09, 2002, 12:00:06 PM »
I believe a flat fee per gig can be worked out.