I've always felt that this 'tone-tuning-by wood' is an iffy process at best. I'm sure Mica can tell you about basses that didn't sound like the build record suggested they SHOULD have sounded . . because wood is just different from piece to piece.
Yes, you can 'hear' wood in extreme cases: Identical basses in totally different builds will sound different; for instance take an all maple Spector and duplicate it in bubinga, or wenge, and you'll definitely hear it. The darker heavier woods are tighter and more focused, like a tuba playing staccato. The ashes, maples, alders bloom in the harmonics with less fundamental than the dark woods. This is the 'bark' that Mica speaks of. Rickenbacker found this out the hard way: Not many of you 4001/03 guys have stepped up to buy the (walnut) Cheyennes, because they just DON'T sound like
Ricks. And walnut (along with cherry) is the first step off into the dark woods like wenge, bubinga, etc.
But mix these woods in construction, especially three different woods in the neck thru (rock maple, purpleheart, and the ebony fingerboard) plus the body wings and this really gets to be
a gumbo. You'll see Mica speak of the neck woods affecting the sound easily (ebony laminates), and CERTAIN tops (cocobolo, usually) accenting the sound, but after that, who knows ?
With ALEMBIC pickups, BELIEVE me, you can cut through ANYTHING. After that, decide on your woods by weight (NO bass will please you if you get worn out wearing it) and what pleases your eye. I prefer a realtively simple 'recipe':
My long scale Spoiler is the deluxe laminate (three purpleheart plies), ebony fingerboard, mahogany wings, and a quilt maple top. The weight (9#) is fine, the mahogany warms the maple, and I get a very even tone without the weight of the more exotic woods. And the tone is very useable in ANY situation, whether I want to blend with acoustics and songwriters, or own the low end in harder situations.
J o e y