Author Topic: Final details (Read 308 times)

newuser · « **on:** December 28, 2004, 07:49:16 AM »

The order was placed in early Dec, just want some input on final details.

The Bass:
Series I
34 scale
6 strings
Ebony fingerboard
Mahogany core
Aluminum side position markers
No inlays
No LEDs
Finish to be Clear gloss body / satin neck
Classic logo (chrome)
Bridge block
Bird tailpiece
Brass truss rod cover
Brass backplate
(chrome hardware)
Neck will have 3 purpleheart/2 ebony and 6 maple laminations
Body will have coco bolo wings (over mahogany core)
Rogue body style (to fit SII Electronics)
cone type peghead
Series II Electronics
Hardshell Case
Nut width to be 2 1/8 with 9mm on-center string spacing
Neck width at 24th fret to be 3 3/8
17mm on center string spacing at bridge

Strings will be Ken Smith Taper Core Medium-6
28-44-63-84-106-130

Custom Volute (like the one on Adam's Custom Excel)
Asymmetrical Tobias Neck Feel
Extra set of blank bridge pieces
DS-5 (if offered in late '05, or used - see my thread in Swap Shop and Wish Lists).

Reasoning: Mix of purpleheart and ebony is aesthetically pleasing, sonically valid and saves a tiny bit of weight, I've left off the inlays as I feel that the beautiful and defining Alembic ovals don't scale well on 6 string fingerboards (I'm still open on this).

The extra set of bridge pieces are in case I ever decide to use different strings (unlikely; my experience is that 34 scale tapercore-B strings are less prone to nasty 'wolf', aka sharp overtones in the F#-D region).

My dealer has a Series II and was kind enough to let me try it-I'm sure I would adapt to the Series style Volute but if it's possible (spoke to Val and it's pending Susan's approval), I prefer something similar to what I'm used to. Ditto for the Asymmetrical Tobias Neck Feel.

Anyone have the history of the Series style Volute?

Questions: Strap-locks? I currently use the horseshoe shaped ones (Schallers?), long ago I had one of the pin kind (Dunlops?), but it failed (the pin-ballbearing assembly fell apart as I attached it-no harm as I was holding the bass, but I went to the other kind and never looked back). My Dealer (Greg at B&B) uses the DiMarzio cliplock system. This is the first new system I've seen. Looks pretty cool and I might try it on the Tobias (one of the strap pins is very worn and needs replacing).

Anyone have opinions on this?

Also, while I'm not an active player (dancing around that is), I do shift my bass's playing position back and forth horizontally to facilitate low and high positions. This puts extra wear on the horn's strap pin and extra stress on the horn itself. Since the core wood will be Mahogany, would a threaded brass insert to receive the strap pin screw/bolt (whatever system used), be a good idea?

Anything I've missed? Any advice/thoughts?

A name for the Bass? Midlife Crisis, Coo-Coo for Coco Bolo, Dan's Bass, Too Many Strings/Knobs So Fire Me I Don't Care?

I'll be in SF in a couple of weeks and have setup a pilgrimage to the Mothership! Looking forward to wood hunting and seeing some of your instruments in varying stages of construction!

Thanks to all in advance,

-dan

bsee · « **Reply #1 on:** December 28, 2004, 08:13:01 AM »

The threaded inserts for the strap pins is an interesting idea. I'd like to hear if that's possible.

Neck-wise, I think 4 ph and 2 ebony with 3 maple would look cool too. I think it's the same cost as what you're doing if I understand what Valentino told me last week. If you're looking for more fundamental, then the more of those heavy/dark woods, the better, right? The neck feel sounds interesting as well.

I suspect that this will be quite a heavy instrument. Also, with the hollowed body for the electronics and big neck, you're probably going to be glad you went with the Rogue shape for balance.

lbpesq · « **Reply #2 on:** December 28, 2004, 08:24:14 AM »

Dan:

Welcome to the club. Your axe sounds like it's going to be a stunner - very well thought out. Are you going to have the cocobolo top bookmathed to center, or leave the necks lams showing. (Personally, I'm a 'show dem lams' kind of guy - when you got it, flaunt it). Also, you might want to re-consider your decision on the side LEDS. I wasn't sure about these when I was formulating my custom Further order and started a thread to take a poll on the subject. I was quite surprised at the universal popularity of this option. You can check it out here:

http://club.alembic.com/Images/449/13096.html

Also, welcome to the Bay Area (I live in Oakland). A stop in Santa Rosa is a MUST. The factory is only 60 minutes north (without traffic - make sure you leave S.F. before 3 p.m. on weekdays). You will find the visit very worthwhile and the people very friendly. They will let you go in back to the shop and pick out your own wood!

Congratulations. Now go out and get a copy of Tom Petty's The Waiting is the Hardest Part

Bill, the guitar one

David Houck · « **Reply #3 on:** December 28, 2004, 03:42:43 PM »

Sounds like a great bass!

As I understand it, the only Alembic basses that come standard with volutes are the set-necks. Since the neck-throughs all come standard with laminates on the back of the headstock, they don't need volutes. I think a custom volute on a Series bass is quite intriguing.

I like the appearance of clean fingerboards (i.e. no inlays); however, I have found that my failing eyesight prefers basses with inlays (however, it should be noted that none of my basses have side LED's).

The threaded inserts for the strap pins sounds very interesting!

newuser · « **Reply #4 on:** January 20, 2005, 01:38:53 PM »

I visited the factory last week, Valentino and Chip helped me pick out a nice piece of Coco Bolo that gives me 'eyes' and ripples for the front of the bass and a sort of topographic map effect for the back. Hung with Tony (who was sanding a gorgeous 'Brown Bass') for a sec to discuss Asymmetrical Tobias Neck Feel (he's looking forward to carving it), and bicycles. Spoke with Ron (an honor-I can hardly believe that I'll be playing his best PUs/elects later this year), Mary briefly and with Susan and Val at length. Drooled at Mica's Aliens pinball machine,... Oh and at a bunch of basses in various states of completion too.

bsee: Yep, it will have threaded inserts to receive the strap pin screws. This is cool because I typically replace the horn button every 2 or 3 years and don't want to be jamming toothpicks into an ever widening screw hole in the Mahogany core. I went with the 2eb/3purp/6mpl neck to save a touch of weight and for the look.

lbpesq: The lams will be shown, LEDs are neat but not for me.

davehouck: After seeing modern Series necks I found that the standard Series volute/back headstock laminates are fine so that's what I'm going with. I passed on the oval inlays as 1) I'd have to contort myself while playing to see 'em, 2) I don't like how they scale on wide multi-string necks.

Now for the waiting!

-dan

hollis · « **Reply #5 on:** January 20, 2005, 01:46:31 PM »

Your project sounds really great. It'll be a real pleasure seeing it come to fruition.

Enjoy

beelee · « **Reply #6 on:** January 20, 2005, 02:04:45 PM »

I ordered this bass on 10/28/04
here are the specs, its my first totally custom made bass, but not my first Alembic, I would welcome your thoughts, comments etc. as it is still a tree and not a bass yet !........I think ;o)

Series II 6 string 35 scale
Triple omega, pistol grip, heart omega,
P.H. neck lams
Ebony board,
Abalone ovals,
comfort fingerboard taper
Fr blue laser LEDs, Blue side LED's,
knobby peghead,
Coco Bolo top & back
Mahogany body
gold logo & script
bird tail piece
cont wood backplates
wood truss rod cover
pickup selector on lower horn
mono/stereo switch for 1/4 inch output
on/off sw for LED's ( all on, side on only, all off) MOP & Paua inlays under Logo like the one on November feat custom.

I think I added a dimmer for the LED's also.....
B.

serialnumber12 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 20, 2005, 03:12:43 PM »

What about extra large ovals to compensate for the extra wide neck, dont forget, alembic CAN do it!

bsee · « **Reply #8 on:** January 20, 2005, 03:49:20 PM »

Interesting question. I would have thought that they would adjust the oval size for Aesthetics automatically for each instrument. Well, maybe not down to the millimeter since they probably want to run some routing, but some variation. I will have to ask about this myself since I am ordering at the opposite end of the spectrum. I wonder if the regular inlays will fit on the tiny necked bass I am ordering?

dgcarbu · « **Reply #9 on:** January 20, 2005, 05:24:00 PM »

Dan,

Congratulations on your order, can't wait to see the progress...

beelee · « **Reply #10 on:** January 21, 2005, 03:54:48 AM »

Hey Dan,

that's going to be a nice bass, I prefer the Schaller security locks over the dunlops also, I had the ball bearing wear out too, the Tobias neck feel is nice, I have a pre Gibson Tobias 6 its very comfortable to play.

I think the ovals inlays should like fine, I'd get some custom inlays, but I'm maxed out on what I can afford, I used to have a Peavey TL-6 that had triangle shaped inlays on an ebony board...it was nice, I like the design of the inlays on Yamaha's John Patitucci 6 string bass also.

I'd like to be able to visit the factory, but unfortunatly I won't be able to make it out there.
B.

newuser · « **Reply #11 on:** January 21, 2005, 06:35:24 AM »

Bruce: Your 6 string triple omega's specs look awesome!!! Should be a featured custom - just too cool - I look forward to seeing it! I also have a Tobias 6 (a Gibson/Nashville era Basic in Zebra), and sought to duplicate its comfort.

Oval inlays: I think that if a longer scale were in play (like at least a 36), the ovals would scale better (to my eye-a totally subjective thing). Now if we're talking custom inlays then it's a different story. I really like the triangles used on The Lions Roar bass and I saw some very cool thematic inlays being done during my visit. If only money were no object...

-dan