Author Topic: Persuader 89P5559  (Read 3213 times)

edwardofhuncote

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Persuader 89P5559
« Reply #45 on: August 18, 2014, 11:35:03 AM »
Thanks Fellas!
 
Took it on the first round of gigs this past weekend. It's not quite like anything I've ever played... you guys (and girls!) are absolutely correct about the Filter & Q-Switch. It only took a few minutes to dial in *exactly* what I like to hear, and after a little experimenting, I found some alternate settings that are quite usable. Purposefully left all my amp settings (Mesa Walkabout) at flat response, and left compressor and chorus pedals out of the signal path just to see what the bass would do on it's own - it's simply fantastic. The only incident, at one point I could hear an odd crackle followed by a pop-pop-pop-pop-pop. From reading the various forums both here and elsewhere, I gather this is cellular phone noise? I cut my phone off, it stopped, and I haven't heard it since.
 
Not 100% satisfied with my set-up just yet, but I think it's mostly the strings. I'm used to TI Jazz Flats, and this bass is currently strung with TI SuperAlloys. Just feels a little stiff in the middle with the higher tension. I was planning on staying with roundwounds on this bass, but may have to rethink that choice.
 
All that's really left to do is replace the collet knobs with the hat-type knobs, and post a couple finished pictures.  
 
Before closing out this thread, I want to thank ALL you folks at the Alembic Club, and especially the staff at HQ for the helpful advice and patience with a new Alembic owner... as some of you know, this started out as an ebay deal gone south, but two months later, I'm pleased to report it's come to a happy ending. I love the bass... couldn't have done it without you!

David Houck

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« Reply #46 on: August 18, 2014, 12:02:07 PM »
Congrats!
 
On strings; I use TI Jazz Rounds, considerably less tension than the Super Alloys.

bigredbass

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« Reply #47 on: August 18, 2014, 10:11:16 PM »
Terrific repair skills.  The Witch-Hat knobs should cover your tracks, and they just 'look' Alembic.
 
I'm just tickled you've rescued this bass and done the right thing by returning it to Alembic internals.  As you've found out, axes with Barts or EMG's are just fine, but they do not sound like Alembic filter-driven electronics.  Not everyone 'gets it', but if you do, there's just no substitute for that sound.  And as all of us know, when you are looked after by Mica and the crew, there's just nothing like it.  
 
So many congrats, glad you're digging it, and can't wait to see the finished pics.
 
There's nothing like owning an often whispered about, rarely seen legend.  I live in Nashville, a town crawling with zillions of guitars and basses, and I've seen four of them here, and I own two of 'em.
 
J o e y

poor_nigel

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« Reply #48 on: August 19, 2014, 07:47:01 PM »
Hey Gregory (I Gregory!  Too obscure?), I have a box of old hat knobs and would not mind donating to your cause, if you have not already found a set.  E-mail me your address if ya want em.

edwardofhuncote

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« Reply #49 on: August 20, 2014, 11:45:53 AM »
Many thanks Nigel, but Alembic HQ has a set on the way to me now... should be here in another day or so. Right now I have the new stock collet knobs on the bass, and obscured my repairs with some homemade brass bushings. Actually doesn't look too bad...  
 
@ dave - Also got a set of TI Jazz Flats coming... I am going to try those TI Jazz Rounds, but on a different bass first, might eventually put them on this one too.  
 
I'm going to try posting some downsized pictures of the finished job here... Installed some new brass strap buttons, and recessed the underneath of each so they would mount flush to the contour of the bass. Just aftermarket D'Addario buttons, but I think they complement the rest of the brass hardware nicely.

edwardofhuncote

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« Reply #50 on: August 21, 2014, 10:21:44 AM »


 

  (Message edited by davehouck on August 21, 2014)

edwardofhuncote

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« Reply #51 on: August 21, 2014, 10:24:52 AM »





edwardofhuncote

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« Reply #52 on: August 21, 2014, 10:28:01 AM »





edwardofhuncote

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« Reply #53 on: August 21, 2014, 10:45:07 AM »
Well, here she is folks... 89P5559USA in completion.
 
It's been fun chronicling this project through the stages, but I'll quit on this note, and fade back to lurking on you guys' posts for a while.
 
Thanks Again!

flpete1uw

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« Reply #54 on: August 21, 2014, 10:49:36 AM »
Gregory,
This is how I like to run my Basses as well with the amp positions at noon and let the Bass show what she's got! I to use a Walkabout (12 Scout) the one thing I found out recently about the Walkabout is the Mid adjustment is a passive tone adj. in that a flat response is around 10 o'clock. I bet its pretty shocking what that Bass can do huh? Again good choice on the Q switch.
Peace,
Pete

bigredbass

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« Reply #55 on: August 21, 2014, 09:36:49 PM »
You've done a remarkable job restoring this axe.  Many congrats and hope you enjoy it.  Well done !
 
J o e y

JuancarlinBass

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« Reply #56 on: August 23, 2014, 07:49:27 AM »
That?s an amazing looking bass! Play it and enjoy it in good health!
 
Out of sheer curiosity, as I  have always thought it is (definitely) easier to drill and make holes on a piece of wood, rather than filling them up (and specially the way you did on that control cavity!), would you explain with some little how did you fixed those out-of-shape holes in the wood, and achieved such a result? The washers in the top are, I assume, the easy part, but I am really interested in knowing how to fix the wrong-shaped holes for the pots and stuff (Have a bass here that suffered from a similar mod by its previous owner)...

edwardofhuncote

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« Reply #57 on: August 26, 2014, 06:49:22 AM »
Yeah, that control cavity was a mess. Fixing the holes wasn't too bad... I have a background in musical instrument repair, though almost exclusively my experience is work on upright basses. Actually, just some carefully fit pieces of maple, and slow-set epoxy mixed with some maple sawdust from my bandsaw, to bind them in place. Used low-tack masking tape for a form. After a day to set and fully cure, I carefully flushed up the mating surface with chisels and sandpaper. The scariest step was counter-sinking the inside of the control cavity for the Q-switch, but worst-case scenario, I'd simply have had to redo that hole altogether. (it was the oversized and oblong one) I had given some thought to inlaying some quilted maple veneer on the outside to cover the repairs, and I would have if a complete refinish was in order, but that would've been a very tricky touch-up.  
 
Oddly, those brass washers were the hard part - I had to make them, out of some very thin (.0010) brass flashing. It necessarily had to be thin, since the threads on the pots don't extend very far through the body. And they're just temporary, until my hat-style knobs come in.

edwardofhuncote

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« Reply #58 on: September 08, 2014, 06:26:29 AM »
Last Update - The final piece(s) in this restoration came this past weekend, via a small box from the Mothership... I have now installed the period correct hat style knobs. It was very close, but the larger diameter knobs completely cover the repairs.  
 
Taking Mica's advice, I offset them from contacting the top with a sturdy business card, and carefully tightened *both* set screws. For giggles, and so it would match the one I'd made for the Q-switch, I decided to leave one of my homemade brass bushings, but moved it over to the jack.  
 
Many small tweaks later, this bass has settled into an *extremely* comfortable player... it took a while to let the neck do all the moving it was going to after putting on the lighter tension TI's, and adjusting the truss rods. Went up a couple rounds on each side of the bridge, down a turn on the treble side of the nut. Then finally, I carefully dialed the intonation back in.
 
It's perfect.  
   

flpete1uw

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« Reply #59 on: September 08, 2014, 07:26:04 AM »
Job well done Sir, Congratulations!  
Play with great joy in your accomplishments and knowledge of the tradition of the art of these modern day Stradivarius's  
Peace,
Pete