Do I have a twisted neck?

[shadow]

Haven't look at the forum for many days and I would like to thank everyone for all the help.
 
Let's see...
 
I did raised the nut on the low side and it helped some but if I dig in just a little I get a buzz. More then a slight lift to me seems like too much unless I am using a light gauge, which I'm not. My E is a .105
 
I do all adjustments with the bass in playing position. I have a notch straight edge and other tools from Stewart-MacDonald that I used. I try not to get too OCD with measurements and go with feel. Measuring gets me in the ballpark.
 
I did tap down the first few frets but no change.
 
I will try restringing the E and see if that helps and maybe change out the set.
 
I wouldn't think that I need a fret level because I don't play that much to have reached that point so soon. As you all know, Alembic is such a quality bass that it wouldn't have left the factory without the frets being leveled.
 
What are some of you using for strings? I have many different brands and having a hard time staying with one.
 
A note about me. I played for about 15 years then stopped for 25 years. Started up again about a year ago. When I was young I had the time to play alot and build up a callus now having a hard time getting to that point.

[edwardofhuncote]

I use Thomastik-Infeld Jazz Flats on my bass... these are a low tension string, and feel much softer, particularly when used on the short or medium scale.
 
Of the 6 basses I play, 3 are very stable and require little to no seasonal adjustment. 2 require truss rod adjustments per season, and 1, an all-mahogany set neck bass, is just impossible to keep in playing condition during dry-cold winter.
 
I believe Joey and Mica are right - change that E string, and your buzz might well disappear. I work on upright basses mostly, and this is the most common source of a mysterious buzz.
 
Keep up the playing - the callouses will come back. =)

[bigredbass]

As you've got some StewMac straight edges, are those first several frets flat with the rest of the fingerboard?  You might check them checking their heights with the long straight edge / short straight edge -few-frets-at-a-time comparison.  I'd agree that a low-hours axe would probably not need re-crowning, but for a few frets to back out a hair would not be uncommon.
 
I generally use whatever strikes me when it's new string time:  They all go dead PDQ and then they all sound alike !
 
I like bigger strings, so right now I'm running D'Ad XL-Fives, 50-135 (EXL160-5 set, to be exact).
 
My 'generic' setup is basically the same clearance over the first fret (nut height) and the last fret (bridge height) and a slight relief, generally along the lines of a little over a 16th on the B side and a little under a 16th on the G side both ends, and relief around .011 to .013.  As long as I'm in that neighborhood, I'm good, and it will vary some with the season and whatever strings it's wearing.
 
And basses do vary.  My red Spoiler refuses to budge with the weather, it never moves.  The green one is much newer and I have to get hold of it once or twice a year (although it may be less than thrilled wearing a 50 G and a 70 D!).  And the red one will play 'straighter' than the green one regardless of how much I tweak on it.  If I had better technique, the red one might play with a dead straight fingerboard, which is very rare.
 
I often wonder what a Pain in the Ass it would be to play with these tweaks with a conventional bass, screwing around with neck bolts, a conventional nut, and separate bridge saddles.  I could have never learned setup anywhere near as easily on an axe like that.  The Alembic feature set makes learning this an utter breeze.
 
Joey