Author Topic: Switch for Series I  (Read 459 times)

slawie

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Switch for Series I
« on: October 25, 2007, 06:47:52 PM »
I would like to buy a switch for my series I with the resistors already mounted.
How do I go about getting this expedited?
The switch is the tone switch that I am talking about.
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David Houck

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2007, 07:45:05 PM »
Slawie; you probably need to call the shop and speak with Mica about this.  She'll need the serial number.  Also, be sure to send her a picture so she'll know that you don't have the regular black switches.

slawie

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2007, 03:17:20 PM »
Thanks Dave,
I will call as you have suggested. Thanks fo your help.
“Commitment is what transforms a promise into reality.”
Abraham Lincoln

slawie

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #3 on: November 01, 2007, 03:05:29 PM »
Dave I had spoken to Mica and set it all up for the switch to get sent to Oz. Thanks for your help and thanks espescially to Mica for getting it all together.
“Commitment is what transforms a promise into reality.”
Abraham Lincoln

slawie

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2007, 03:50:18 PM »
My switch arrived on Friday. Many thanks Mica.
Is there a picture posted of the wiring particularly the ribbon cable for a Series 1?
I need to resolder the ribbon cable and cannot find the schematic I drew up when desoldering. D'oh!
“Commitment is what transforms a promise into reality.”
Abraham Lincoln

David Houck

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2007, 01:57:39 PM »
I've been looking all over the place, but I'm not finding any pictures.

dela217

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2007, 06:09:19 PM »
I would take a picture, but my camera is dead and I can't find the charger!  But, I can tell you what colors go where.  Would that help?  Is the ribbon cable completely removed?  Or just from one of the Q switches?  I have a bass from the same era, so it should have the same type of 1/4 inch jack wired stereo, etc...  Or if you give up, you could just sell me the bass.  Just kidding.
 
Michael

slawie

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2007, 06:58:39 PM »
Only three have been removed (but the question is which three?). My bass does not have the 1/4 jack. I would never sell the bass. You can see pictures of it though in the series one section serial # 75-251S. Fretless long scale small body.
“Commitment is what transforms a promise into reality.”
Abraham Lincoln

dela217

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #8 on: December 14, 2007, 05:16:10 AM »
So, the three you are talking about are the ones that are on the Q switch itself.  When I get home, I will crack open my bass and tell you what goes where.  I also found the camera charger, so it will be followed by a pic or 2.  The bass I will be using for reference is a bass with Series 1 electronics (BecVar) from the mid 70's, so the ribbon cable should be the same.  The pictures will tell all.
 
That is a real sweet bass you got there!
 
Michael

dela217

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #9 on: December 14, 2007, 04:42:09 PM »
Here is the pic of the inside of my bass.  Let me know if you need more detail.  I think it shows the back of the Q switches pretty well.
 
Michael
 

slawie

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #10 on: December 14, 2007, 06:11:39 PM »
Thank you so much. A picture is worth a thousand words. I made a mess of the resistor that goes from the center left post on the switch to the pot. The one with the clear sleeving. The other one measures at 5.47k Ohms but my calcs make it 5.1K Ohms Maybe the 5 band thing is throwing me off?
Thanks again for your help.
I would ask if one of the techs at Alembic could advise me of the actual resistance value?
Thanks in anticipation of your efforts.
Slawie
“Commitment is what transforms a promise into reality.”
Abraham Lincoln

slawie

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #11 on: December 19, 2007, 04:35:08 PM »
Can any one tell me the value of the resistor that I have circled in the photo.....please? Well sort of circled.
 
“Commitment is what transforms a promise into reality.”
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dela217

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #12 on: December 19, 2007, 06:29:43 PM »
I don't have a clue.  But I know that each one of them stripes mean something.  Perhaps there is a site on the internet that deciphers these stripes?
 
I'm gonna check.

slawie

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #13 on: December 19, 2007, 06:38:47 PM »
The bands are green/brown/red/gold/yellow.
The banding does not fit with any of the sites that I have visited that decipher 5 band coding.
So if Mica, or anyone with that degree of knowledge, would be so kind as to let me know the value or even mail me one in the post (snail mail) I can finally get my bass up and running.
Thanks dela217 for your efforts this club is the best.
“Commitment is what transforms a promise into reality.”
Abraham Lincoln

dela217

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Switch for Series I
« Reply #14 on: December 19, 2007, 07:28:00 PM »
I found this text:
 
Resistor Color Codes  Color  Significant Digit  Multiplier  Tolerance  Failure Rate  
Black  0  1  +/- 20%  ----  
Brown  1  10  +/- 1%  1.0  
Red  2  100  +/- 2%  0.1  
Orange  3  1000  +/- 3%  0.01  
Yellow  4  10000  +/- 4%  0.001  
Green  5  100000  ----  ----  
Blue  6  1000000  ----  ----  
Violet  7  10000000  ----  ----  
Gray  8  ----  ----  ----  
White  9  ----  ----  ----  
Gold  ----  ----  +/- 5%  ----  
Silver  ----  ----  +/- 10%  ----  
No color band  ----  ----  +/- 20%  ----  
 
 
The Failure Band is only used with Military specification resistors, use the link below to view resistor Mil Specs. The table above shows a 4-band resistor color code [not counting the failure rate band]. Five band resistor color codes are also possible, with the fifth band being used as another significant digit. It;s common to see these color bands on 5%, 10% and 20% resistors, how ever in many cases 1% resistors have the value printed on the device.  
 
 
 
I found this info on this site:
 
www.interfacebus.com/resistor_table.html
 
They describe that the 5 band resistors could be mil spec and that the last two bands could be the tolerance and failure rate.  Perhaps the only colors needed to find the resistance value are the 1st three????
 
I am more confused than ever.