OK, I moved the violet wire to the centre lug. Blimey, what a difference. I suppose that the way it was the Q switch was permanently in the off position. With the switch on, I get exactly the wah-wah sound you described when I rotate the filter pot, and in any case I can really hear the difference in the shape of the note. There seems to be a fairly small section of the rotary control which makes a very large change to the quality of the note though. I wonder if there is a way to smooth that out? Anyhow, now I can get that great sound I've been after The one that sounds like you're playing down a huge drainpipe, a special acoustic drainpipe built for the purpose. Its not a dry pipe though, it has a lovely wet quality. The switch wasn't faulty either; it works just fine.
While I had the back off, I dismounted the bass & treble boost switches so that I could see the wiring better than in the photos above (Bass boost internal view). The treble switch is a
C&K 7103 which looks like the other switches you use. The bass switch just has the number T228 printed on it which I couldn't identify. It looks like a fairly standard DPDT good quality switch. I sketched the wiring and I'll try to put that into something I can upload.
I've also found that the truss rod on the G side of the neck needed about a half-turn of tightening to bring the neck back to roughly true. I'll leave it like that for now and see if it wanders any more. I've been trying to fine-tune the intonation, and I'm pretty close. I'm starting to get really happy with this guitar now, although I think I need to get one of these
strobe tuners to move up a gear in the precision stakes.
Also, while I'm on the subject of pots, both pots are very slack, by which I mean there is almost no resistance to rotation, and the slightest touch will alter their position. Is there a way to increase the friction on the pots, or am I looking at replacements? I see that the filter pot is double-ganged, so that'll be a bit more fun to de-solder.