Bridge / String alignment

[thewitt]

Camera angle it is. That silly iPhone makes it tough to hold it still, keep your hands out of the light source and click the button. You can see the angle by noting the treble side adjustment screw. I tried hard to get a good shot, but failed.  
 
The nut is just fine. As is the neck. No shaving, refinishing or warping.  
 
Just to address David's post, as he was kind enough to take the time:  
It isn't just the G saddle that will be replaced, it's all of them. So I won't be changing the string spacing, just moving them over (about) 1/16. What Mica wondered is if they were replaced at an earlier point and slotted incorrectly. I don't know, I'm new to this bass and it's history is unobtainable.  
 
I think your suggestion of how to mark the saddles for cutting is correct, and I'll do just that.  
 
Thanks for the input guys.

[thewitt]

Thanks to all at Alembic, my new saddles are in hand.  Nice!  On a side note, when putting the bridge together, the new saddles are far more shiny than the bridge itself, so I went looking for a way to clean the rest of it.  Digging around under my sink I found a bottle of easy-off cleaner for glass top stove.  I put the bridge parts on the stove top and gave them a spray.  Wow - That was easy!  I'm sure this isn't recommended for newer parts, but for this old girl - If there was a lacquer finish, it's long gone.  It worked well enough I put some on a cloth and shined up the nut too.  See the before and after.  

 

  (Message edited by mica on May 11, 2010)

[edwin]

Nice! Flitz metal polish does the job very well. Enjoy the new improved string spacing!

[terryc]

you could use a dremel type tool with the polishing brushe and mops along along with a paste polish(Solvol Autosol in the UK which is the same as Flitz in the USA)
If there is still old laquer you can use the same tool with the brass brush attachment before polishing.
You could re laquer after you got the desired bright efect

[lbpesq]

How does one re laquer?
 
Bill tgo

[adriaan]

As far as I'm aware, on most Alembics with plain brass hardware, only the tail piece is lacquered.

[FC Bass]

That's for the older Alembics I think...  
On my fretless (2006) only the truss rods cover is lacquered, none of the hardware on my Elan (1990) was lacquered when I got it and both my Spoilers (1983/1988) had a lacquered tailpiece (though I'm not 100% sure 'bout the '83)
 
Imho it's best left without finish, I think there are some topics here and I seem to remember something about hairspray.
 
I leave the hardware unfinished and give it a good polish before I take pictures or before a big gig.
 
Edit: If you decide to relacquer, don't use powder coating (!) check the showcase section (my '88 Spoiler) to see why, I'll post new pictures next week.
 
(Message edited by fc_spoiler on May 12, 2010)

[lbpesq]

I think the hairspray rememberance is the trick with Alberto VO5 that I read somewhere around here a few years ago.  After polishing brass, I rub on a tiny amount of VO5 (a women's hair product that comes in a tube that my mom used back in the 60's - the unique smell evokes lots of memories for me).  It helps the brass stay shiny longer.
 
Bill, tgo

[bigredbass]

OK, Bill, here's the 'Heloise' list:
 
Yes, Alberto VO5 (in the gold toothpaste tube) is a great shine-keeper after you polish the brass bits.  Completely organic, it's harmless to electronics and finishes, and will keep the shiny bits shiny a lot longer, put on just a thin film.
 
My favorite wonder-lube for saddle threads, wiggle sticks, allen screws, etc., is called BreakFree CLP.  You find it at most any firearms store, or Wally World or some other big box stores.  Dose the selected parts with this and they will be virtually sweat, beer, and rust proof in most cases.  Mil-spec, standard issue from Uncle Sam for everything from Berettas to howitzers, it's really fine.  And it's also harmless to finish and electronics.
 
I've settled on an auto parts answer to brass polish: I use Eagle One Never-Dull Wadding Polish.  Really strange, it's a can full of a roll of fuzzy stuff impregnated with this polish. Real old school.  Pinch off a piece, and it shines up the brass RIGHT NOW.  Make a couple of passes with it, wipe off the the remnant black stuff with a clean cloth, then a little VO5, you're done.
The can has several prompts about not smoking around this stuff.  I have managed to get a little bit on the finish and saw no ill effects, but I would stay off the finish if possible.
 
And if you have poly-finished, colored instruments like me, I use Mother's waxes and polishes for guitar wax.  Remember in auto lingo, polish has fine abrasives, wax is liquid wax only.  Car wax is also fine for keys or gold plated parts where you can't use brass polish.
 
I still however, have not found any suitably post-hippie, organic lemon oil here in Nashville, so I have no guidance there.
 
Now, where's my Martha Stewart magazine . . . .
 
J o e y

[terryc]

Okay..re laquering.
Prep. For a thorough job you could dismantle the bridge completely.
Remove old laquer with brass brush attachment to Dremel tool OR liberally coat parts with chemical paint stripper(use rubber gloves..this stuff is extremely corrosive to skin) and leave. Old laquer will bubble up.
Wash thoroughly and inspect. It is essential all traces of old laquer is removed. Repeat procedure until is is all gone.
There is no need to laquer the steel pins or threaded bolts..just the brass.
Polish brass with chosen product and wash in warm soapy water and dry thoroughly.
If the prep isn't done properly the finish will be awful.
 
Laquering
If you have disassembled the bridge then all the parts should be placed on either high quality white glossy paper or card.
Using a aerosol car clear laquer make short passes over the components, try to keep 90 deg to the parts and wait for the laquer to dry.
You should only make a maximum of three passes..any more and it runs and sticks heaviliy to the paper..it will stick but not as much.
When the first coat is dry, move the parts on the paper, this stops them sticking to the paper when you are building up coats.
I reckon 10 coats should be adequate to prevent sweat entering, but you can apply more.
If the paper is getting loaded with laquer, move the parts to a fresh piece.
Remember to coat all parts equally by turning them over so the faces that are on the paper get coated as well.
 
This is a time consuming job..patience is needed, take a few days over it and when you are satisfied wait at least 48 hours for them to harden fully
 
I have restored a lot of antique brass with this method.

[bigredbass]

Terry, does it improve your luck using the old method of warming the spray can contents in a soak of hot tap water (PUH-LEEZE don't use boiling water!) before you shoot?
 
Joey

[terryc]

I have a pro compressor and spray gun so I always get a good result plus I can alter the laquer mix ratio.
Aerosols are much better now, the hot water method is good to get the last few millilitres out of a can.
Remember to give the can a good shake for at least 2 mins to mix the solvent with the laquer.
 
As said before any restoration requires loads of time, you cannot rush the job however quickly you want it doing.