Author Topic: Upgrading 2-way Q-switch to 3-way (Read 885 times)

flpete1uw · « **on:** October 06, 2015, 05:40:44 AM »

Not to beat this to death, but I'm bumping this thread.
If this is something in the works I would be defiantly interested in installing a 3 way Q
to my Distillate. If not I'll drop it, I can make it work with the SF-2. For now I find the Q gain a bit to much at 6db. A 3db / 6db / 0 would go a long way.

Thank you,
Pete

http://alembic.com/cgi-bin/alembic-club/discus.cgi?pg=prev&topic=393&page=197056

lbpesq · « **Reply #1 on:** October 06, 2015, 08:41:16 AM »

I beleive the 3-ways are 0-6-9.

Bill, tgo

keith_h · « **Reply #2 on:** October 06, 2015, 10:00:04 AM »

I think Adriaan has 0-3-6 on one of his basses. All it takes is some slightly different component values attached to the switch.

Keith

adriaan · « **Reply #3 on:** October 06, 2015, 10:38:40 AM »

Bill is right about the standard 3-way, and Keith is right about about the switch on my Spoiler.

The standard 2-way is 0-8, and I fully agree that's a bit strong. The 3 and 6 positions really do make a difference from the 8, as well as between themselves.

Now on my 88 Spoiler it was a fairly simple mod, but like Mica mentioned on that earlier thread it's probably not as simple on a Distillate.

mica · « **Reply #4 on:** October 06, 2015, 11:16:09 AM »

Pete, you'll need to provide an image of your electronics. There are several different versions of the Distillate. What we can do is provide a prewired switch for your version.

flpete1uw · « **Reply #5 on:** October 06, 2015, 12:23:39 PM »

Thanks Mica!!!
Here's the shot of the cavity.
If helpful the electronics were at the Mother Ship for minor work on 5/8/12 # 37793
SN# 85D3532
I would prefer the 0/3/6db if this pans out.

keith_h · « **Reply #6 on:** October 06, 2015, 12:46:22 PM »

I see I'm not the only one who dates his batteries.

Keith

flpete1uw · « **Reply #7 on:** October 06, 2015, 01:06:27 PM »

Yep, and this one was low.
I guess the cavity check is for a good reason.

edwardofhuncote · « **Reply #8 on:** October 06, 2015, 01:28:22 PM »

Pete, I was just telling Mica the other day how much I like the 3-position Q-switch upgrade they wired up for my Persuader.

Keith, I'm pretty sure this place is where I got the idea for dating my battery. =)

lbpesq · « **Reply #9 on:** October 06, 2015, 04:17:30 PM »

Dating the battery? Great idea! I'll be doing that from now on. Thanks.

Bill, tgo

sonicus · « **Reply #10 on:** October 06, 2015, 04:41:39 PM »

Soon there will be a rechargeable battery with a speech chip ! It will sound out with a little voice OH, NO, the end is near when it is time for a boost. , It will say Thanks when charged ! The alerts will be programed for when you plug in the instrument and the circuit detects a load .

LOL ... ... ... ... !

hammer · « **Reply #11 on:** October 06, 2015, 04:43:32 PM »

You guys must open your electronic cavities a lot more often than I do for your dating the batteries to help. Mine tend to get opened when I start getting distortion or there is no sound.

growlypants · « **Reply #12 on:** October 07, 2015, 09:14:18 AM »

I just keep a piece of paper in the case, writing on it the date of battery changes. That way, I don't have to open up the back to see!

sonicus · « **Reply #13 on:** October 07, 2015, 10:06:48 AM »

Each hour that the battery is supplying power to the circuit will be relevant to predict a lack of power incident. Therefore it would be useful to enter exact hours of use in a log. You could even do a study that way with different battery brands and types . !

jacko · « **Reply #14 on:** October 08, 2015, 06:31:17 AM »

Or.... you could just play the instrument till it needs a new battery ; then change the battery :-)

Graeme