Author Topic: String selection  (Read 660 times)

mrfrisky

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String selection
« on: October 12, 2015, 08:48:42 AM »
I have an SC deluxe that I recently acquired and have a quick string question. I have been using roto-sound strings for years but the short scale strings are a bit to short causing the taped ends to rest in the nut rather than behind it. Any one got any string suggestions. I change my strings fairly frequently so my budget just can't swing the cost of the Alembic strings. I play finger style with light to ultra light with some slapping and on occasion picking. I like a bright articulate sound and use about 3/4 bridge pickup most of the time.

hammer

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« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2015, 10:39:24 AM »
If you like the Rotosounds I'd suggest just ordering the medium scale version.  That's what I do with all my Alembic basses. One size/scale longer than usual. Have you tried D'addario Chromes? Quite a few people here use them. Once again I'd suggest ordering a medium scale set for your SC.

ed_zeppelin

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« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2015, 12:00:31 PM »
Here is Rotosounds guide to scale lengths:
 
http://www.rotosound.com/bass-string-scale-length-guide/
 
Rotosound still makes superwound strings (originally Superwound was a separate company, and were merged with Rotosound, who changed the name to PSD = Piano String Design) and they only offer one line (but it's the only one in the world, which is cool).:
 
http://www.rotosound.com/psd-bass-99/
 
Here's a pic of *Jeremy Johnson's Alembic with superwounds/PSDs;
 


 
 
Unless you can set up your own action and intonation, it would be worth it to have your SC professionally serviced to take advantage of the superwound's unbelievable sound. (The upper harmonics ring off those babies like nothing else, giving a muscular yet clear tone all the way up into dog-hearing levels and because the fulcrum point is so small it takes a lot less energy to unleash 'em, so they're just insanely responsive.)
 
Tastes in strings vary, but some of us take advantage of the Alembic tailpiece to quickly change strings (because the strings aren't threaded through any holes, but instead the ball end clips into notches) and keep different types of strings handy, depending on the gig. (I've got the world's oldest, gnarliest tapewounds for an upright bass thud, a 20+ year old set of gold strings for jazz and country (you'd be surprised) and a new ten-dollar set of bright snappy roundwounds from Carvin/GHS):
 
http://www.carvinguitars.com/group/bass_strings  
 
Yeah, ten bucks! Stainless, too. Clanks like kicking a zinc bucket over cobblestones.
 
One stop string shop:
 
http://www.juststrings.com/bassguitar.html
 
Juststrings.com doesn't always have the best prices, but they're a good resource for finding out what's available. A lot of us sign up for manufacturer's newsletters, which sometimes gives you whopping discounts (especially DR, Elixir and GHS).
 
Oh, what the heck. This things turning into a novel anyway. I've worked retail in music stores for years. The hot tip is to set up an account at an online music store and put a little over a hundred buck's worth of merch (I wanna strangle people who use that phrase) in your cart, then close the page without signing off or checking out. SOME sites will email you a computer-generated reminder that there' stuff in your cart, and a coupon for anywhere from 25 to 50% off. That's when to purchase the big-ticket gear.
 
It's legal, at least. You should also consider Alembic strings, you know. Come on, ya cheapskate. You'll only know what ALEMBIC strings sound like on an ALEMBIC bass if you cough up and get it over with. You'll slap them babies on, stretch 'em a little, dial in a little Q and unleash that GOD OF THUNDER thing you've got lurking down there in the pit of your belly, or you wouldn't be here. It's all about wallowing in the sheer excellence of the BEST.  
 
Besides, look at what we upright (most of the time) bassists have to pay for the BEST, and squawk about prices.
 
http://www.juststrings.com/spirocorethomastikinfelddoublebass34.html
 
 
* I know it's Jimmy, I just wanted to see who'd bail on my string lecture (I would, if I didn't have to stick around to write it) and make Jimmy's Yahoo group's collective neck-hairs stand on end.

mario_farufyno

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String selection
« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2015, 12:28:52 PM »
xxx
 
(Message edited by mario farufyno on October 12, 2015)
Not just a bass, this is an Alembic!

hammer

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« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2015, 01:52:54 PM »
I thought you really intended to refer to Jeremy Johnson but didn't know that Auburn's QB played Alembic. But then I remembered this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0fAQ2Ijmuc another Johnson who is a musician with the first name of Jeremy, until it dawned on me that maybe you confused him with Jamey Johnson https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5sluiHEgkg.
 
I just couldn't believe that our Jimmy Johnson had a bridge on one of his Series basses which was that tarnished with adjustment screws that appeared to have heads just a tad short of being stripped off .

neyman

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« Reply #5 on: October 12, 2015, 02:08:21 PM »
A tip to setting up those open core strings is keeping the length of exposed core from the bridge to the windings consistent (as in JJ's pic).  
 
Otherwise, the feel of the strings and the output (volume) will vary, and it will be almost impossible to set a consistent string height.
 
....and you will curse them to no end.

ed_zeppelin

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« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2015, 07:12:21 PM »
Ha ha, the only reason I borrowed *Johnny Johnson's bridge pic (from here: http://club.alembic.com/Images/411/13111.html?1443722990 ) was because I remembered that one and I couldn't find a pic of superwounds anywhere else on the internet. Go ahead, find one. Knock yourself out.
 
By the way, the problem with *Jason Johnson's bridge is that the combined weight of old National Geographics is causing earth's magnetic poles to switch places, starting with the rear of *Jerry's bridge.  
 
In approximately 3.75 billion years it will have rotated all the way around, but by then humans will have three arms and bass will have evolved into another sense, like taste, hearing and in 'n out burger.
 
EDIT - while you're there, scroll all the way down to the picture of a grand piano and read *Jeff Johnson's brilliant explanation of temperament.  
 
(Message edited by Ed_zeppelin on October 12, 2015)

JimmyJ

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« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2015, 08:19:45 PM »
HA!  Another excellent scribe from EdZep aka Forest, though today I'll refer to him as Foster.
 
Yes, I know that bridge looks bad.  It was a one-off made in 1980 so... I mean, flat-head mounting bolts?  I have no recollection why that happened.  But clearly I should never have tried to adjust them under tension.  (Duh).  None of those bolts have moved since probably '81.  And the only thing holding the block into the bass is the fact that it is wedged in there and can't be pulled out in the direction the strings are trying to pull.
 
To the OP, definitely look into medium gauge Rotos because you know you like that sound, you just need a longer winding.  Then you can listen to the rest of these guys about what's the latest go-to brand and type.  
 
The Superwound strings pictured above are only on my fretless basses and they seem to last forever, though I don't put many hours on them.  They last so long that these are actual SuperWound Ltd. strings.  I'm still playing ghs Boomers (what a name...) on the fretted basses.  They're nickel-plated so a bit softer than roundwound steel.
 
it's Jimmy J

rv_bass

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« Reply #8 on: October 12, 2015, 09:00:09 PM »
If the taped end is the silk wrap, then all you have to do is trim the silk back a little, that's what I do with my short scale Pyramid Golds and it works fine.

mrfrisky

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« Reply #9 on: October 13, 2015, 05:17:25 PM »
You guys are alright!
 
1) Unfortunately I can't just remove the tape because some of what I call the Knarly portion is also in the nut, Which Im pretty sure is going to, if not already causing tuning issues. Actually I know it is causing issues, hence the original post.
 
Damn E.Z. I gotta say this has got to be the only place were somebody can call a guy a cheapskate after he payed thousands for a pre-owned instrument! It may be true but give me a tourniquet before I pull the knife out please! I must admit I really am curious if the strings are as good as the bass though.  
 
JimmyJ Thanks for the take on the boomers, Im still adjusting to the size of the neck and the completely different sound of this bass and by your description may try out a set of boomers. Don't worry though EZ it will be after those Alembics!
I thought I was imagining the block of wood!
 
You guys are really great, glad I joined the club. Thanks again. Any more advice, I'll always listen.

ed_zeppelin

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« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2015, 08:22:00 AM »
My ploy worked! I knew the only way I could brag about using ten-dollar strings on the Alembic board was by calling somebody ELSE a cheapskate. And it worked!
 
We repair guys get what's the best ...? questions all the time, probably none more so than strings, so I want to explain something that most people don't think about. When you change gauges of strings, it's vital to have a pro set it up, unless you have your own nut files - and know how to use them.
 
If your nut slot is set up for one size and you put a larger one in it, the string doesn't seat in the slot and leaves a tiny, tone-assassinating gap between the string and bottom of the nut slot - and you probably won't know it, because it's almost impossible to see or feel. But it has a MONSTROUS effect on tone.  
 
On the other hand, putting a smaller gauge string in there is worse, because on inline designs (Strat, Tele) the string rattles around in the slot and on all others (3x3 etc.) the string hugs one side of the slot - but it opens the string ends to sympathetic vibration.  
 
On old guitars it's common to find paper matchbook pieces stuffed in the nut slots and sometimes ribbons, fishing line (well, once) or foam rubber entwined in the string ends from nut to tuner (yeah, there's a name I can't remember for that), all to suppress sympathetic vibration.  
 
Nowadays we have techniques to refill and cut new slots in no time, and a staggering array of options for saddle and nut material (most made by Graph-tech http://www.graphtech.com/products/brands  [check out the Ghost hexpander while you're there])

ed_zeppelin

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« Reply #11 on: October 14, 2015, 09:35:57 AM »
I forgot to mention that I use the Stringcleaner on all my guitars and basses. It cleans both sides of the strings with one swipe and doesn't require anything but a quick rinse twice a year or so.
 
http://thestringcleaner.com/
 
Simple, cheap, effective, and the bass version has an extra pad that cleans the fingerboard at the same time. I just leave them on the guitar and give it a quick swipe before and after I play. Three seconds, tops. Done.
 



rustyg61

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« Reply #12 on: October 17, 2015, 06:17:29 PM »
I used Alembic strings exclusively for the first 2 or 3 years on my SCSD & they are still my preference, but I have had good luck with DR Sunbeams also.
Rusty
2011 SCSD
2014 "Blue Orca" Series II Europa
http://www.alembic.com/info/fc_blueorca.html

carsbybigd

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String selection
« Reply #13 on: October 23, 2015, 10:06:54 PM »
I've been using Rotosound 66 nickel's on my Series 1.People at the gathering in Nor Cal asked me if they were new,as they still had a good amount of Zing to them. DR Sunbeams are some really long lasting strings,I used them on my P[with an Alembic pickup] and they sounded great .

jazzyvee

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String selection
« Reply #14 on: October 25, 2015, 12:01:24 AM »
I used alembic strings on my SCSD bass and I do love their sound. The main reason I haven't used them for a long time is that they are too expensive here in the UK compared with others. I currently have medium scale D'addario's prosteels  on the bass that I got on recommendation by Pierre-Yves and they are great bright sounding strings.
The sound of Alembic is medicine for the soul!
http://www.alembic.com/info/fc_ktwins.html