Clicking Q-switches on SC Deluxe

[jazzyvee]

The first time I operate the Q-switch on my bass after plugging the jack lead in it makes an electric click sound which comes through the speaker like a discharging capacitance.
 
Then If i don't use the switch for a long period then switch it again, it makes the same click.  
 
If i am playing pieces where i need to make regular changes to the position of the switches then this doesn't happen.  
 
Is there somehow a charge building up in a capacitor somewhere that is causing this?  
Any adjustments I can make to stop this as the longer the delay between using the switches means the eventual click will become louder.
 
Up till now I have got used to switching on and off to discharge any charges building up. It's become more noticeable lately as I've been playing music that needs far more tonal variation than usual.
 
 
Vince

[rogertvr]

Vince, I can fully relate to this.  The Dragon's Wing does this too - it is based on an MK Deluxe.  However, because I use a compressor with an expander on it, I only notice it if I move a Q switch in mid song, or the compressor is turned off.
 
Do you have a problem with the volume of the instrument increasing if you rotate the pan control either way from the centre postition?
 
Rog

[mica]

If you've got clicking on Q switches Vince, check the switch to see if there is a cap soldered to it. This was added sometime in the last couple of years, it's not the sort of thing we are obsessive about recording. Since we made them for over twenty years without, once in a while a new one slips through without the added cap.
 
I'll dig up a picture and post it on this thread in a little while so you can compare and then see where to add the part.
 
What Roger is referring to with the pan control is typical of all Signature electronics. This is an open engineering item on Ron's schedule and when the revision instructions are available, they will be readily shared.

[mica]

Of course, everywhere I refer to cap above should be 1Meg resistor Here's how you hook it up:
 

[senmen]

Vince,
I had the same problem with my Spyder4.
The problem is caused, as Mica told you, by the
missing capacitors on the q-switches.
So check like Mica told you and ask for a replacement.
 
Many greetings
Oliver (Spyderman)

[rogertvr]

I've just removed the back plate from the DW - that has a capacitor as shown here on both Q switches.  I should stress that the click I get is not a massive thud, but I can hear the fact that the switch has been switched through my amplifier, even at a fairly low volume and it is enough to force the level LEDs on my mixer to light up (all this applies only if I have my compressor turned off or I switch the switch in a quiet passage of music).
 
Rog

[mica]

It's actually the resistor you need to confirm that you have - it's the stripey part across the terminals of the switch.  
 
Roger, if you could reply to your open request email on the pan pot and add this additional information about the the click, that may help us resolve your pan pot issue knowing all the details. Thanks.

[senmen]

Rog,
exactly the same with my Spyder4.
I had changed the parts and have now the capacitors on the Q?s but you still can notice
a slight clicking sound when switching.
It is not as strong as before without the capacitors, but still noticeable....
 
Oliver (Spyderman)

[rogertvr]

The resistors I have are the same as the one shown in the picture above (blue background, brown/yellow/blue (black?) rings) and soldered as shown above.
 
I have just been trying the DW through headphones using my mixer, to see if I can replicate the problem to demand.  The neck pick-up is the main culprit by the sounds of it and clicks on virtually every switching use, but the bridge one will only do it occasionally.
 
Rog

[rogertvr]

P.S.
 
Can I add that the reason that I haven't really noticed the clicking so much when my compressor is turned off is probably due to the fact that I don't use the neck pick-up Q switch that much.
 
Rog

[jazzyvee]

Thanks for the info Mica, I will have a look at the weekend when the gigs are out of the way :-).
 
Rogertvr, yes I do have the volume increase as you move away from the centre indent on the pan control. But like most things you learn to automatically adjust the volume just after you move the pan so that the level increase is minimised. However it would be nice if it didn't do that.  
 
Another thing that comes to mind. Ive just had yet another string break on me, fortunately during my practice at home and not on a gig.  
 
This is about the 4th set of strings in about a year or so that have broken just at the point where the string goes over the bridge and is either the D or G string. Well previously it's always been the D' string but yesterday the G-string went.... ( no smutty comments about breaking G-strings please ;-)... )  
 
Could it be something to do with the saddles?
I do play heavy sometimes but not all.
Jazzyvee

[son_of_magni]

My custom also clicks the first time I use the switches after starting to play, and I think the 1 meg resistors are installed.  Tonight I'll try to measure them to make sure they're good.  In fact maybe I'll swap them out with a 500k to see how much that helps.

[dela217]

I am going to put this resistor on my custom too.  This is one of the reasons that I stopped using it.  Hopefully this will fix that problem.

[David Houck]

I used to break a lot of strings too, mainly the A string, at the bridge.  I tried lightly sanding the saddles.  Eventually, the problem went away.  I don't know whether it was the sanding of the saddles, or gradual change in playing style, or even a change in string type.  I just can't remember.  I'm thinking the problem went away before I changed string type; and I'm inclined to believe that sanding the saddles did fix the problem.

[jazzyvee]

Mica, I opened the back on my bass yesterday to change the battery and had a look at the switches and those 1meg resistors are not there so I'll have a look for some in the electronic shop an solder them into place.
 
Cheers
Jazzyvee