Author Topic: Need info on my Europa  (Read 414 times)

fiveny

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Need info on my Europa
« on: March 03, 2005, 01:33:58 PM »
I just purchased from Ebay a used 5 string Europa,
sn= 90U6169. I know this makes it a 1990, but would love to know all the build details.
Bass is in good condition, pics coming.
I have noticed that the bridge pickup is not as loud as neck. I understand there are pots that I can adjust in the cavity. Which one is bridge?

bob

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« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2005, 02:33:28 PM »
Best thing to do is just try one (mine happen to be opposite to what you might expect). Pan fully to bridge, turn one of the pots, and you'll know if that's it or not. Going from min to max will be very noticeable.
 
Congratulations, looking forward to a better picture of that wood, looks really nice.

fiveny

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« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2005, 07:40:28 AM »
Another question, is the bridge adjustable up and down? The existing strings are thin over the bridge and then they wind to full width and have cloth wrapping at tuners, new DR's I bought and all the other strings I looked at start out at full width. I am concerned string height will go up dramatically when I change them.

bsee

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« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2005, 07:55:15 AM »
String height will change significantly.  There are three types available.  You currently have waht is called exposed core strings, and you may be able to find replacements if you wish.  The DRs are what I would call regular strings that are at their full width all the way from the ball end.  The third type is something in between.  Commonly referred to as taper core they thin and add to the winding over the first couple inches to get up to the full size.
 
The whole bridge can be adjusted up and down at either side, but not the one or two strings you want to move individually.  That sort of change would be accomplished by acquiring new bridge saddles for those positions.  If you don't plan to go back to exposed core, then you may just need to carefully file the grooves in the current saddles larger and deeper to accept the full winding strings.
 
If the current saddles were set up for exposed core strings from the beginning, the grooves won't be large enough for regular strings to sit well.  If they are large enough, then the bass was probably set up for regular strings and it will just be a matter of adjusting both sides of the bridge to get where you want to be.
 
Does that help?

fiveny

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« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2005, 08:07:55 AM »
Yes, that helps. I will have to look closer at the saddles. I should be able to lower the bridge to a good spot. Would Mica have the saddle info from the original build data? When I asked my music store for help last night and explained the strings they were no help.

David Houck

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« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2005, 08:30:22 AM »
When Mica and/or Val spot this thread, they will post the info from the build card.  If there is anything about the saddles on the card, they will post it.  My guess is that the saddles may be fine and that the bridge was raised for the exposed core strings.  To follow up on what Bob See was saying, there is a hex screw on each end of the bridge.  Turn each screw with an Allen wrench clockwise to lower the bridge.
 
If you haven't done so already, you may want to check out the FAQ and Must Reads sections; there is lots of information there on setting up your bass and other topics that you might find helpful.

bsee

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« Reply #6 on: March 04, 2005, 09:40:07 AM »
The wood card probably won't say anything about the saddles, but it should say what strings went on the bass which should tell you how it left the factory.  That was 15 years ago, though.  
 
The good news is that it is more likely that the last owner would have made a bridge adjustment than ordered new saddles, so it's probably still as it came from the factory.
 
Also, you probably have the hex screws on your bridge, but earlier instruments had phillips head screws.  I have one of each.

fiveny

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« Reply #7 on: March 04, 2005, 10:13:52 AM »
I believe they are hex. I need to go out and buy a set of tools just for my baby. I really appreciate the responses and all the info here. It is just taking me time digging thru it all! I want to take her apart and get the brass polished, very dull and dirty now.

s_wood

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« Reply #8 on: March 04, 2005, 01:06:34 PM »
Fiveny:
 
Welcome to Alembic world!  The top on your bass (is that walnut?) is really striking!
 
The Alembic bridge is really easy to adjust because it's simple...a couple of tweaks to the 2 hex screws with an Allen wrench and you're good to go...no fooling around with individually-adjustable bridge saddles for each string, which are only good for screwing up the relationship between string height and fingerboard radius.
 
Before you adjust the trim on your pickups to even out the volume I suggest that you make sure that they are each the proper distance from the strings.  Here's how to raise and lower the pickups http://www.alembic.com/support/care.html
 
Here is how to figure out how high or low the pickups should be, and how to adjust the trim control for the pickup pan control. http://alembic.com/club/messages/449/7642.html
http://alembic.com/club/messages/393/15980.html  
 
Good luck!
 

s_wood

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« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2005, 01:12:39 PM »
Fiveny:
 
Welcome to Alembic world!  The top on your bass (is that walnut?) is really striking!
 
The Alembic bridge is really easy to adjust because it's simple...a couple of tweaks to the 2 hex screws with an Allen wrench and you're good to go...no fooling around with individually-adjustable bridge saddles for each string, which are only good for screwing up the relationship between string height and fingerboard radius.
 
Before you adjust the trim on your pickups to even out the volume I suggest that you make sure that they are each the proper distance from the strings.  Here's how to raise and lower the pickups http://www.alembic.com/support/care.html
 
Here is how to figure out how high or low the pickups should be, and how to adjust the trim control for the pickup pan control. http://alembic.com/club/messages/449/7642.html
http://alembic.com/club/messages/393/15980.html  
 
Good luck!
 

fiveny

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Need info on my Europa
« Reply #10 on: March 08, 2005, 10:03:42 AM »
Well she is all shinny and clean now. New strings installed, intonation set, neck adjusted. Pickup height and trim set. Thanks to all for the good info, this club rocks.
 When I raise or lower the bridge, do I have to adjust the intonation each time?

mica

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« Reply #11 on: March 10, 2005, 12:01:54 PM »
Any time you adjust the truss rod or raise/lower the bridge, you are slightly changing the vibrating length of the strings, and you will need to adjust the intonation.  
 
Here's the details on your bass:
ULB-5 Europa long scale bass
top: Flame Walnut
accent: none
body: Maple
fingerboard: Ebony custom dimension 1.75x2.75
inlays: Pearloid
pickups: AXY
controls: Elan Plus
finish: polyester gloss
birthday: not recorded  last date noted was the rubout, which was 10/19/1990 So it's likely the bass was finished in late October or early November.
originally made for: Bass Centre, Los Angeles.

fiveny

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Need info on my Europa
« Reply #12 on: March 10, 2005, 04:44:09 PM »
Thank you Mica!
I am now curious, the AXY pickups, were they standard in 1990, and it appears the neck dimensions are also smaller than todays Europa's.
I love the neck on my bass.

adriaan

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« Reply #13 on: March 11, 2005, 01:47:51 AM »
Fiveny,
 
Like Mica wrote: fingerboard: Ebony custom dimension 1.75x2.75. According to the product page, the regular size would be 1.625x2.360 - so actually the neck is a bit wider than normal. There's no details about the standard thickness of the neck - but with Alembic the client can specify the neck dimensions so it is not unlikely that you find custom neck shapes and sizes.

David Houck

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« Reply #14 on: March 11, 2005, 04:20:02 AM »
Adriaan, it's a five string; you quoted the four.  The standard Europa dimensions, also known as the Comfort taper, for a five string are 1.875 x 2.930.  So this bass is a bit narrower than normal.  For reference, the standard five string dimensions for the Classic taper are 2.000 x 2.500.