Author Topic: Frets and the unhappy bear  (Read 1777 times)

dfung60

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Frets and the unhappy bear
« Reply #15 on: March 13, 2005, 10:57:54 PM »
Roger -
 
Sorry to hear about the job situation on top of the DW situation.  Your frustration is understandable, but as many have posted here, this isn't a manufacturing defect - it's just a byproduct of natural materials.
 
Ebony is used in the fingerboard because it's dense, hard, and has a high internal oil content.  No matter how long you season/dry the wood before working with it, the act of carving it into your fingerboard exposes a new surface and that new surface will be more subject to shrinkage and environmental sensitivity than the blank it came from.  Alembic is careful to properly maintain optimal humidity in their shop but unless you live in Hawaii or the Phillipines, winter for you or I will be much, much drier.  That dry environment causes the fingerboard to shrink, exposing the fret ends.  The surface of the tangs of the frets keep the fret ends from pulling back in when the humidity increases during the warmer months.  So, you really can expect this to be a one-time fix.
 
All that said, I would highly recommend you take it to a professional luthier for the fix, despite the good results people report here.  First of all, smoothing fret ends will be a no-brainer for anybody qualified.  They will have the proper tools and experience.  For example, nobody here mentioned masking the fingerboard edges and surface, which I believe would be normal practice for a pro to prevent scratches from stray strokes (hey, you're going to have 48 edges to take down).  This is less of a big deal than for fret levelling where the fret tops are in play, but your instrument will allow the rare opportunity for a simple slip to cause literally thousands of dollars of damage - don't let it happen.  
 
There's another reason that you may not really want to think about too much.  If you make an error and round off the fret end too much (or irregularly among those 48 fret ends), then this may require replacement of one or more frets.  This is already slightly pricey with your garden variety Fender.  With a full neck inlay and an LED strip running down the edge of the neck, the simple act of pulling the frets is now a major, major undertaking, and you'll find that many good luthiers will refuse to do the work outright or only at a very great cost.  
 
I have a graphite-necked Series II, just oval inlays, but side LEDs (and no truss rod).  When I recently wanted to have a relief adjustment, a number of highly qualified luthiers in SF were unwilling to work on it, on the chance that the relief change I needed was going to require a full refret.  I was able to get the work done by my favorite tech after I convinced him to take a good look at it and convince himself that it would only involve milling the frets rather than refretting.  It had always had marginal relief from when I picked it up new from the factory in 1987, but it was only a few years ago that I decided to actually get it fixed.
 
Part of having a sports car is that an oil change that would cost $59 on your Honda will cost $600 on your Ferrari.  On some levels that really sucks; on the other hand, you *do* get to drive a Ferrari.  In this case, I suspect that Alembic would probably fix the problem if you could get it in their hands, and that it will probably cost more to ship it to them and back than a local repairman would charge to address the problem.  
 
Best of luck,
 
David Fung

bob

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Frets and the unhappy bear
« Reply #16 on: March 14, 2005, 12:00:38 AM »
Roger, I'm also sorry to hear about your problem (that should be plural, counting your job), but encourage you to take a few deep breaths and try to get past it.  
 
Aren't you the one who donated a month's worth of beer money to tsunami relief? My guess is you could find a qualified person to get you playing again for less than that. The DW doesn't belong in a case, with no batteries.  
 
Ebony shrinks. It's not anyone's fault. I don't even have frets, but I have a shrinkage problem with my neck laminates. I had the bass for a few months, and then suddenly - over the course of about two weeks, with no obvious weather change (and less than two hours south of Santa Rosa) the neck lams shrunk.  
 
Mica said my case was a bit unusual, because normally it becomes obvious on the flat portion going through the body, whereas on mine that remained almost perfectly smooth, but I suddenly had all these ridges in the neck.  
 
As for the timing, I know my neck was built much earlier, so most likely I was in the range of 12-15 months. It was really surprising just how suddenly it happened.  
 
I too had a moment of thinking, geez, I spent all this money on a fancy custom bass and now my satin neck feels like it has grooves in it??? But then I noticed that once I put that aside and just played, I didn't notice it at all...  
 
Yes, one day I will drive up there and get it smoothed out (I'd do frets myself, but not neck shaping), but there is really no rush in my case. Sharp protrusions are a much more urgent problem, but as others have explained it really isn't a big deal to take care of and should be a one time thing.  
 
David makes a good point, that someone with the right experience will be able to do the job easily, and avoid the stupid mistakes that first-timers might make, like forgetting to mask and then slipping (especially if feeling a bit aggravated by the whole thing...).  
 
If you have someone local, whom you trust (really trust) and feel is competent, perhaps you might consider loaning them your bass for a week in exchange for the work? After all, it's just going to be sitting in the case anyway, right?  
 
Just a thought.  
-Bob
 
(Message edited by bob on March 14, 2005)

rogertvr

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Frets and the unhappy bear
« Reply #17 on: March 14, 2005, 01:19:49 AM »
I appreciate everyone's comments here, thanks for your input and support folks.
 
It *** is *** the surprise factor that has both annoyed and disappointed me with this problem. If I'd known that this could happen, when it did I'd be saying 'Oh right - it's happened - now what?' as opposed to 'what on earth is going on here????'.
 
Jacqueline works for the company who insure the DW, so I'm in the fortunate position of being able to get sound and trusted facts when it comes to insurance. It is only insured whilst it is in the house - to take it out (i.e. to a luthier to be fixed because I'm not sure I want to tackle this myself) is going to add a payment of ?50 (pro rata for the rest of its insruance year) to take it out of the house. Not to mention the cost of the work, let alone finding someone to do it.
 
It's money I can't afford, not at the moment. So I'm a little between a rock and a hard place at the moment...I either do it myself or it has to wait.
 
Rog

drjenney

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Frets and the unhappy bear
« Reply #18 on: March 14, 2005, 05:02:13 AM »
Rog,
 
Collectors of antique furniture have a similar problem. It's only in the last 50 years or so that we have lived in homes w/such very low humidity. While nice for us humans, it can be brutal on solid wood products of all kinds. Hot and dry air is the worst of all possible cases.
 
So, first consider turning the humidity up in your house a bit. All your furniture will thank you. Do it a little at a time so you can get used to it.  
 
Second, add a guitar humidifier to your Alembic case. Keep the bass in its case and make sure the humidifier has water in it. Both of these suggestions will lessen [not eliminate] your fret protrusions.  
 
Third, turn up the AC [or at least keep the bass in a cool location]. Metal frets can expand 5% or so in length in extremely hot conditions. Doesn't seem like much, but if that 5% is what cuts your finger?
 
Each of these suggestions will only make a little bit of difference, but it may be enough that you won't have to file the frets.
 
 I had a similar problem with my first Alembic years ago. Simply adding a guitar humidifier was enough to keep my fingers free of blood. :-).
 
I eventually worked up the courage to file the fret ends that last little bit. It was a snap. Felt foolish for waiting so long. Don't remember if it was stated here already, but file the fret end parallel to the ebony's grain: that's up and down the fretboard. Even light scatches will show up clearly if you sand across the grain. I prefer a round or half-rounded file, because I can rotate it back and forth, touching only the fret.  
 
If you've got the courage to do this last part first, leaving only the tiniest bit of fret left, the other steps above will bring it flush.
 
Enjoy your bass.
 
Dr. J
 

adriaan

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Frets and the unhappy bear
« Reply #19 on: March 14, 2005, 05:30:17 AM »
Roger,
 
No offence intended, but it sounds a little as if you're trying to make yourself fall out of love with the DW - kind of like a brace before impact move in case you need to sell. That is a really tough situation.
 
I can see how the added insurance payment is the proverbial last drop - but what is ?50 on a 10K+ instrument? If you'll pardon the lame excuse for a piece of advice, but if you need to cut costs there's probably other luxury expenses that you can more easily live without.

borisspyder

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« Reply #20 on: March 14, 2005, 06:12:16 AM »
And that's why I play a Buzzard 1 & Buzzard 2 exclusively these days...anyway I have the same problem on the $180 Ibanez I leave in the office to mess around with...when its dry in the winter the frets pop out, when the weather warms up they settle back in...maybe dryness of the winter air is the problem, it may fix itself in the spring if you can't afford to do anything with it now.
BTW: My Buzzards are older, no truss rods at all. The necks do move a touch, but they tend to correct themselves based on the season, a little more bow in the summer, less in the winter. I never adjust my Buzzard 1 because it was owned by John Entwistle & I want to keep his set up.
Good luck with the Alembic, enjoy your Status basses.

drjenney

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Frets and the unhappy bear
« Reply #21 on: March 14, 2005, 06:39:13 AM »
Hold the phone! Just looking through my Stewart-MacDonald catalogue (www.stewmac.com). They have a very nice fret end dressing file (US$12.36) and 0.10 inch stainless steel fretboard guards (6 for $US9.25) to protect the ebony while you do it [use them on thefret end while you file]. Should make the job safe, easy and cheap.

rogertvr

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Frets and the unhappy bear
« Reply #22 on: March 14, 2005, 08:30:09 AM »
Hmmm, interesting suggestions and thoughts here...
 
To Adriaan - no offence taken, but I'm not out of love with it and selling it is most definitely not going to happen. I don't need to realise the asset and wouldn't want to realise the asset. It's just that I've pretty much cut back on everything I can cut back on, and now this potential expenditure crops up that I really don't need.
 
I'll wait and see what the instructions look like once Mica answers my request, then I might have to invest in the equipment as suggested by Dr. J - and then get my brave head on!

David Houck

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« Reply #23 on: March 14, 2005, 12:43:59 PM »
Here is the link to the above mentioned service sheet.  The service sheet is now referenced in the FAQ section; and a link to this very informative thread is now in the Must Reads section.

mica

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Frets and the unhappy bear
« Reply #24 on: March 14, 2005, 12:59:48 PM »
Hi Roger, I received your email from Sunday, you should see a response in your inbox now. I'll also recap here for the readers of this thread.  
 
Today we added a Fret Edges page to the FAQ. In it, you'll find a link to the service sheet referenced.
 
I'll add that the job is quite easy, and is exactly how we do it here. The first time I filed fret edges, I was 19 years old on a trip to Germany. All I had was the file (no instruction sheet), and I performed several of these procedures without incident. Many of the shop onwers were wary of a teenage girl armed with a tool pointed at their expensive inventory.
 
I plan on expanding the FAQ for the fret edges sometime soon with pictures. One thing not on the service sheet is that a drop of lemon oil on the edge of the board after filing will restore the original look.
 
Did you receieve the one-sheet Care and Adjustment of your Alembic Bass when you received your instrument along with the warranty card?
 
On a side note regarding your insurance, Roger: is the bass really not insured if you take it out to a gig? Or is that allowed because it's under your supervision?

rogertvr

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« Reply #25 on: March 15, 2005, 05:56:15 AM »
For everyone's information, now that I've received the instructions from Mica, I've decided to do the fret edge filing job myself. I don't want to leave the DW unplayable and I can at least afford a fret file - and one thing I have plenty of is time to spend on it!
 
I did receive a booklet called Care and Adjustment of your Alembic bass - I looked in that on saturday but I completely missed the paragraph that mentioned about the potential problem with the fretboard - I was looking for a heading I think as I didn't want to sit and read the whole thing at the time.
 
On the subject of insurance - it's not insured once it leaves the house.  But as it hasn't left the house since it first arrived here as I still haven't got back into a band, it's not a problem at the moment.  When it does need to go out, it's going to cost a fair amount of money to insure it due to the value of it!

s_wood

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« Reply #26 on: March 15, 2005, 06:27:31 AM »
Roger:
 
Make sure that you cover the fingerboard with masking tape before you start!  That's what the pros do to protect the lacquer on the neck just below the edge of the board. Here's a good picture of how to do that:  http://mywebpages.comcast.net/skgs/sk/Images/fc5.jpg
 
Good luck!

rogertvr

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Frets and the unhappy bear
« Reply #27 on: March 15, 2005, 06:33:58 AM »
Oooo yes, nice - thanks for the tip!

jacko

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« Reply #28 on: March 15, 2005, 06:39:45 AM »
Just a thought - wouldn't that layer of masking tape stop you filing all the way down to the fingerboard, thus leaving the tang protruding, albeit only a thousandth of an inch or so?
If it's to protect the finish on the neck, why not run the masking tape lengthways just above the maple - ebony join?
 
graeme

s_wood

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« Reply #29 on: March 15, 2005, 09:16:50 AM »
The tape shouldn't cover the fret wire. Lay it parellel to the frets, and then use a second piece to cover the little bit of neck that appears below the fret you are filing.  Am I explaining myself clearly?