Severe Brass Tarnish Remedies?

[smuprof]

So the brass on one of my Alembics was long neglected before I got it and I'm working to get her back to showroom condition. Some parts are very tarnished which I think can be solved with elbow grease, but the bridge actually shows a bit of rust. Reading the Flitz page it recommends their Instant Copper and Brass Tarnish Remover product first to get to a good starting point, them using Flitz polish.


Has anyone ever done this? Outcomes? Is it safe? Alternatives?


Appreciate the wisdom of the global Alembicians!

[bigredbass]

Here comes the Hints from (BigRedBass) Heloise, your remedies for crusty Alembic brass:

First off, forget the tailpiece:  They are all clear-coated so you won't have to mess with them, and if your axe has any gold-plated parts (tuning keys or others) DO NOT use any of the following on plated parts !

For really discolored uncoated brass (say, the adjustable nut or the bridge, for instance) get thee to an auto parts store and find a product in a can caller Eagle One Never Dull wadding.  Inside is a material like batt insulation that's coated with a solution that will take you to shiny brass RIGHT NOW.  Once you're shiny, you'll have to wipe it several times with clean cloths to remove the residue.  Then you're good.  I never saw any interaction with the wood finish, but I'd keep it away from it as a precaution.

If it's slight, a good car wax will also take you back to shiny.  I'd use a good straight wax (not a product marked wax polish, which contains micro compound to remove slight polish lines).

Either way, once it's back to shiny like a new coin, you can use a light coat of Alberto VO5, yes the men's hairdressing in the gold toothpaste tube.  This is totally organic and harmless and will keep brass shiny for a LONG time.

For lubing the tiny screws like the adjustable nut or the traveling screws on the bridge, I use BreakFree CLP, one of the wonder gun lubes.  Totally harmless to finish and electronics, just a drop on these screws will sweat-proof them for a long time.

I used these fixes on mine and they worked like gangbusters.  For me, Flitz was about useless.

[Artgeckko]

That’s a great tip.
Going to have to try Eagle One Never Dull!
Glitz worked fine for me, but don’t believe any of my brass was too far off.
Curious on how you were turned on to VO 5 as a “preservative”?

[bigredbass]

My dad was a WW2 vet, and all those guys came from the hair tonic days (Vitalis, Clubman, etc.) with that shiny hair you see guys look like in noir movies.  He used it, I tried it (just a dab) for my perennially dry hair.  Their website listed 'other uses' which included a light coat for brass and other finishes prone to discoloration from their environment 'round the house.

[lbpesq]

I’ve also used and recommended VO5 for years.  But I never thought of it as a men’s product.  My mom used it when I was a kid.  Its unique odor still brings back memories.

Bill, tgo

[gtrguy]

I just use Brasso and 0000steel wool and elbow grease or I sometimes use the Dremel tools small fine wire brush instead of steel wool but then I am old school.  With the Dremel I always use eye protection. Then I polish the parts and wash the parts in warm water.

The clear coated brass can be stripped with paint remover or 'mechanically' with fine steel wool or the fine wire brush Dremel tool or even wet sanded off. Then polish the brass to a perfect smoothness.
Then I carefully wet sand the brass with fine (1000 or so) sandpaper until the brass is smooth. You then need to perfectly clean the brass with high percentage isopropyl alcohol while wearing thin gloves of some sort (do not touch the part with your fingers) and let dry and respray with clear. Any fingerprints on the brass will screw up the painting.

[hammer]

I'll second Joey's recommendation of Eagle One Never Dull wadding. I find it works a lot better and is easier to use than Flitz. Two cautions (1) Don a pair of gloves when using the stiff or you will end up scrubbing black off your hands and fingernails for 20-30 minutes; (2) I've never purchased a can of Never Dull that, once opened, had a top/cap that actually sealed the can. As a result, unless you use heavy rubber bands to keep the top on tight, the wadding dries out over time. I think they make them on purpose that way so you have to purchase new cans every so often.   

[smuprof]

Gentlemen - thank you thank you thank you.  Eagle One it is.  It looks like the tailpiece is gold-plated as it shines up nicely.  The bridge, nut and apparently the logo (surface mount) are unprotected brass.  The bridge is the biggest offender so we'll tackle that first with all of the precautions noted above.  I'll post before and after photos.  One-note - the 8-string doesn't have an adjustable nut (just noticed that) and it needs some love.  I'll test around because the wadding will come in contact with the wood if I try it there.

Thanks again!  Proud to be part of this community!

[edwardofhuncote]

You can either mask off the wood at the nut, or follow-up with some lemon oil and a good buff on that fingerboard.


(now we can debate about the virtues of what lemon oil is best...)

[bigredbass]

I'd never get steel wool within 50 feet of an electric guitar or bass.

Your results may differ.

[sonicus]

FLITZ, FLITZ, FLITZ.    I concur tenfold to ;" I'd never get steel wool within 50 feet of an electric guitar or bass."

[smuprof]

I have seen the debris from prior lemon oil battles, molecule size, etc. 😊 I have one that came highly recommended on the board that I use regularly so no reason to restart that debate.

I do use 0000+ steel wool sparingly on the fretboard when needed before oil and polish and get great results.  I use a little nylon tool where the frets join the fretboard to clear out any little accumulated grime. Good wipe down, oil, and looks and plays like new.

[Artgeckko]

Happy Sunday!
Looks like I need to get a tube of vo5 in addition to some never dull.
I know my dad had some of that in the day.
I have used 0000 steel wool for scuffs and grime to cleanup some basses.
That is usually followed up by polishing and buffing…
Just have to use caution anytime you are intentionally scratching your instruments.
Never have had a problem with lemon oil? But usually rub most of it off.