Pickup Selector Relocated/ volume increase

[dslapster64]

Hello everyone, I recent bought a 1979 Series 1 and I moved the pickup selector switch from the original spot near the neck, to nearby the other control knobs. Of course there is now a small hole where the old one was. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I can get a brass fill-in ?
Also any ideas to increase the overall volume, especially with bridge pickup?
Thanks
David

[adriaan]

Congrats! I seem to remember a nickel or a dime being a good fit.

Check out the FAQ section for Series instruments here at the Club. The topic for the  Humcancelling Procedure should get you on the right track.

[jazzyvee]

Example of a coin used here.
https://club.alembic.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=26595.0;attach=14890;image

[dslapster64]

Thank you. The coin suggestions seems interesting. I will look into that, although a coin would not necessarily be my preference. But I am unbelievably curious about it. I didn't see anything about the volume increase however. Out of curiosity, does pick up height make a difference to the volume itself, especially since the game is already at the highest level?

[JimmyJ]

David,

Pickup height doesn't have too much effect on overall output level but of course the trimpots do.  Have you been adjusting those?  Description here:
https://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=273.0

With the rear trimpots and the front panel volume controls cranked you should have plenty of output.  The neck pickup may naturally have more output because the string is moving farther in front of it, if you know what I mean.  More actual power generated by that pickup because of the lower frequencies. 

My preference is to set the front panel volume knobs to 10 and then use the rear trimpots to set the balance between the two pickups.  Then you can always use the individual controls to change things on the fly.

Jimmy J

[edwardofhuncote]

Not sure what you have in mind, but I could probably make something that'll fit in there. It's a matter of a circle template and some media the right thickness. Or if you're handy at all, you could do it yourself.

[dslapster64]

Thank you @JimmyJ
That sounds good to me. Great info

[dslapster64]

@edwardofhuncote

Very curious, what material would you put there? I am actually open to that. I certainly am not handy that way. I'm open to whatever suggestion you have.
David

Not sure what you have in mind, but I could probably make something that'll fit in there. It's a matter of a circle template and some media the right thickness. Or if you're handy at all, you could do it yourself.
[/quote]

[xlrogue6]

Tom Fowler's bass came through the Mothership during my brief tenure there. It had a moved Pu selector and a coin filling the hole. (IIRC it was a shilling but there's a distinct possibility that I'm wrong!)

[edwardofhuncote]

Hey David, I'd probably make a pokerchip-like piece to fit in the hole, from either wood or plastic, or the two of them laminated together. What I decided to use would probably be most informed or influenced by what the bass was. For instance, I might try to make something a direct contrast, but matching something else... if it's a maple top bass with purpleheart laminates in the neck, and a mahogany core (a common combination) I'd choose the mahogany or purpleheart for the chip. Maybe both, in some decorative pattern. I mean after all, the object is to fill the hole, but with something befitting a nice instrument.


Post a picture and I'll pitch an idea or two.

[edwardofhuncote]

I measured the switchplate on my '77 Series bass... can't imagine that part has changed. It's right at 1-1/16" Dia. We just need the 'poker chip' to drop in, doesn’t need to be airtight.


I've circled a few samples out with a template here. The first ones are solid pieces... meaning they could be cut out and sanded to the required thickness, then finished. The second picture are veneer samples. This is a thin piece of wood that would have to be laminated to something else to be the correct thickness. No big deal, just adds an extra step.


I'm thinking we'll put some double-sided adhesive on the back to mount this with, in case someone else ever wants to relocate the switch to it's original location. Nothing lost but our temporary plug. If we really want to get technical, I could use my plate as a template and drill it for mounting with screws, just like the brass switchplate did, but you'd need to source those. I'd just go simple here. Up to you.

[dslapster64]

Thanks so much for these replies.

 edwardofhuncote
Here is a picture of the bass, cannot seem to get the picture compressed enough to be able to send, but hopefully it says this time. The base is made of zebra wood. Feel free to let me know how much it will cost to make and how long it will take. Whatever is the best version work for me.

[edwardofhuncote]

Nice-looking bass David.

So you have the brass switchplate still over the vacant hole, they just moved the switch. (I've seen it done a couple ways... other than leaving it inside the bass, this is a nice fairly non-invasive mod)

So here's another idea; you could easily get a threaded brass sleeve bushing from the hardware store to fit in that little hole where the switch was. That leaves your original part on the bass. I used these to fill two vacant holes where Q-switches were on a Hyak bass. (see pic)

That said, I can still easily make a wood plug one afternoon after I'm caught up in here. (the postage to Florida will cost more) If we're making a wood plug for a zebrawood-topped Series bass I'd probably choose either a purpleheart or maple one for the contrast effect. 

Brass looks more stock, wood looks kinda' custom... either is totally reversible.

[dslapster64]

@edwardofhuncote
Thanks so much for your reply. What about if I was to get both of them? a brass one and a zebrawood? Hopefully that wouldn't be too much trouble. Then I could choose once I see them.
David

[edwardofhuncote]

Yeah, I'll see what I can do... brass I have. I don't have any zebrawood stock but I will check a local shop and see if they have any little sample pieces. It will be very tricky trying to grain-match what you have without the bass in front of me. If possible, post a picture of the lower horn/switch area. I need to match not only color but stripes.