SN 07MK13747

[Notachemist]

Hello

I am glad to be a new member of the Alembic community. I would like some more information on this instrument:

Serial Number: 07MK13747

What I can figure out is that it's a 07' MK deluxe - everything also seems to allign with that, judging from the information available on http://www.alembic.com/prod/signature.html - the previous owner lost the "spec card", but it seems to be a "sandwich" of "Coco Bolo, Maple, Mahogany, Maple, Coco Bolo"

Thank you in advance

[JimmyJ]

Hey Subaru2 and welcome to the club.

Serial number lookup can take some time so be patient.  But it sounds like you've figured out exactly what you've got already.  We love pics in here so please post some if you can.  Like this: write a note and go to "Preview", click on "Attachments and other options", click on "Choose File" and find your file.  Note the 1000KB size limit which means you may need to reduce the size of your photo.  Also, you won't see the attachment in Preview, it will only appear after you Post the note.

Enjoy that bass!
Jimmy J

[Notachemist]

Hi Jimmy

Quite exhilarating: The person who introduced me to Alembic, is the first person to respond to my first post!

It's a great honor to have my idol respond to the first thread I made on this website! I hope you are doing well.

I don't have the bass yet (living in Europe, Alembics are quite hard to come by, so it's on its way)

I will try to upload some pictures when it has arrived (due to copyright, I cannot upload pictures from the dealer I bought it from)

Hopefully one day you cross the pond, and I can watch you playing with James Taylor in Denmark.

Kindest regards
Oscar

[JimmyJ]

Hey Oscar,

Thanks for the kind words.  The club of Alembic players is relatively small and I've clearly been a fan of these instruments for a long long time.  So it kinda makes sense that you'd find me in here with these like-minded folks.

Will you be changing your screen name for each post?  HA!  Just teasing.

I found a Reverb listing for your bass, hope you don't mind me sharing it.  Some lovely pics and also most of the details you would find in the missing build sheet:
https://reverb.com/item/84786273-alembic-mark-king-deluxe-5-2007-with-red-side-leds

That looks to be in excellent condition and we hope you love it.  Let us know when you get your hands on it.

Cheers,
Jimmy J

[pauldo]

That Omega cut!!!!   

[Notachemist]

Hey Oscar,

Thanks for the kind words.  The club of Alembic players is relatively small and I've clearly been a fan of these instruments for a long long time.  So it kinda makes sense that you'd find me in here with these like-minded folks.

Will you be changing your screen name for each post?  HA!  Just teasing.

I found a Reverb listing for your bass, hope you don't mind me sharing it.  Some lovely pics and also most of the details you would find in the missing build sheet:
https://reverb.com/item/84786273-alembic-mark-king-deluxe-5-2007-with-red-side-leds

That looks to be in excellent condition and we hope you love it.  Let us know when you get your hands on it.

Cheers,
Jimmy J

Hi again Jimmy

It has finally arrived, and I must say it's an experience, to say the least. It definitely sounds very different, coming from a bass with "standard" treble and bass control, so I am struggling with how to make sense of all the tonal possibilities it has. I'm feeling quite overwhelmed, to be honest.

One thing I noticed: When sighting down the neck, from the headstock towards the bridge, I notice that the neck looks virtually straight on the treble side, but there is a slight backbow on the bass side (it's tuned B-G) - is that normal for an Alembic? I notice quite a bit of buzz at the 15th fret especially, and the B-string in general feels a bit more prone to buzzing than the E A D and G string, but isn't that due to the increased gauge of the B string? (it's .130)

Edit: I forgot to mention, that when using the string as a straight edge, meaning I fret at the 1st and 24th fret, there is no space on either the B or G string at the 24th fret, which I have been told should indicate a straight neck.

Also: Forgive my ignorance, but it came pre-adjusted, and I haven't touched the truss rod, and it seems to be playing quite nice with a low action and my lighter touch, but how can one make sure that the dual truss rod setup doesn't warp the neck over time? Also, how can one make sure that the truss rods are "equal" in tension?

Kindest regards
Oscar

PS: Silly me! I forgot to change my username this time!

[JimmyJ]

Hey Oscar,

Glad to hear you've got that lovely machine in your hands.  I know what you mean, it's quite a leap from a standard electric bass setup but don't be intimidated.  It's just a well built tool to help you make music.

Here's an in-depth description of the controls:
https://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=276.0

And here's a good detailed guide on adjusting the action:
https://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=311.0

About the controls: I would suggest starting with the Q-boost switches "off", the Q-frequency controls wide open, and start to get an idea of the straight sound of each pickup.  Then find a blend of the two pickups that pleases you and use that as a starting point for experimenting with the filters. 

You'll find that you can vary the sound a LOT by where your right hand plucks the string, how strongly you play, etc.  These basses have an amazing wide response to tone and dynamics.

Also don't fear the double-truss rods.  Just think of it as extra assistance when setting up your action.  They don't need to be exactly the same tension.  The neck on your bass is a very strong laminated "sandwich" so don't worry about making adjustments.  In my own experience, once you get the action feeling good it rarely moves.  That can vary between different instruments because they're all made of wood, but the structure is very solid. 

Do some tweaking and let us know how it goes.  Post questions as they come up.

Enjoy that thing!
Jimmy J

[pauldo]

<Snip>

You'll find that you can vary the sound a LOT by where your right hand plucks the string, how strongly you play, etc.  These basses have an amazing wide response to tone and dynamics.

</Snip>

This statement!
 
Alembic creates a fabulously broad palette of sounds with the electronics package alone.... now add to that the User's Input and man oh man what a horizon of tones/ sounds.   

[KR]

Oscar, With your bass tuned to pitch: capo the 1st fret on the B string while holding down the 15th fret at the same time. While holding down at both of these frets: Slide a thin guitar pick between the top of the 8th fret and the bottom of the string... see if the pick slides in cleanly and just fitting. This is a great starting point for neck relief that is recommended by a few makers. Since you have some back-bow on the B-side you could loosen that rod a 1/4-1/2 turn.   

[Notachemist]

Hey Oscar,

Glad to hear you've got that lovely machine in your hands.  I know what you mean, it's quite a leap from a standard electric bass setup but don't be intimidated.  It's just a well built tool to help you make music.

Here's an in-depth description of the controls:
https://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=276.0

And here's a good detailed guide on adjusting the action:
https://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=311.0

About the controls: I would suggest starting with the Q-boost switches "off", the Q-frequency controls wide open, and start to get an idea of the straight sound of each pickup.  Then find a blend of the two pickups that pleases you and use that as a starting point for experimenting with the filters. 

You'll find that you can vary the sound a LOT by where your right hand plucks the string, how strongly you play, etc.  These basses have an amazing wide response to tone and dynamics.

Also don't fear the double-truss rods.  Just think of it as extra assistance when setting up your action.  They don't need to be exactly the same tension.  The neck on your bass is a very strong laminated "sandwich" so don't worry about making adjustments.  In my own experience, once you get the action feeling good it rarely moves.  That can vary between different instruments because they're all made of wood, but the structure is very solid. 

Do some tweaking and let us know how it goes.  Post questions as they come up.

Enjoy that thing!
Jimmy J

Hi Jimmy

I have been experimenting with your approach, and so far it seems like I'm partial to using both pickups at the point where the pan 'clicks' to indicate it's 50/50. The interesting thing is that, for now at least, I'm playing with gain on max, both Q switches on, and both filters wide open - perhaps with time I will dial back at least one of the filters, but it does seem a little bit 'extreme', so to say, haha! Inspired by you, I'm also using Boomers with the B-string at gauge .130, and I must say they sound really nice, compared to the stainless steel strings I was using on my other bass. I was surprised by how quiet the electronics are - it's very impressive how quiet they are, even without muting the strings with your fretting hand!

In regards to the truss rods: I actually had a well regarded luthier and repairman inspect it, and he did say that there was a slight difference between the treble side and the bass side - the interesting thing is that he told me that the added relief would accommodate for the increased movement of the B string in particular, so in his opinion he would leave it as is. He could adjust it to be even, but with the chance of the entire B-string buzzing. I guess I had this view of both rods really needing to be at the exact same point, and any deviance could cause problems long-term. Like you, he also noted the multi laminated neck and body, so he told me that the chance of the neck getting warped was very low. He told me that older Rickenbackers with double truss rods had each of them working independently, if I recall correctly at least, and that it seemed like Alembics had a (copper?) block at the beginning of the truss rod cavity, leading him to wonder if the entire neck had this block of copper, or if it was only inserted at the beginning - do you know anything about this?

It was a long time since he had an Alembic in his hands, but he seemed impressed by it.

Again: Thank you for your time and hospitality - I'm very honored and appreciative.

Kind regards
Oscar

[Notachemist]

<Snip>

You'll find that you can vary the sound a LOT by where your right hand plucks the string, how strongly you play, etc.  These basses have an amazing wide response to tone and dynamics.

</Snip>

This statement!
 
Alembic creates a fabulously broad palette of sounds with the electronics package alone.... now add to that the User's Input and man oh man what a horizon of tones/ sounds.   

I agree - first time I played it through an amp, the B string had the entire room almost shaking, and I normally play with a light touch and not a lot of volume! Now, the quest for adjusting myself to an Alembic AND a 5 string begins!

Kind regards
Oscar

[Notachemist]

Oscar, With your bass tuned to pitch: capo the 1st fret on the B string while holding down the 15th fret at the same time. While holding down at both of these frets: Slide a thin guitar pick between the top of the 8th fret and the bottom of the string... see if the pick slides in cleanly and just fitting. This is a great starting point for neck relief that is recommended by a few makers. Since you have some back-bow on the B-side you could loosen that rod a 1/4-1/2 turn.

Hi KR

Thank you for the advice. As per a luthier and repairman who looked it over, I used the wrong word, so I apologize! If I were to make an adjustment, I could introduce some back-bow, but the luthier and repairman advised me to leave it as is, because the current difference in relief on the bass side is only slight, and, as per him, it is accommodating for the added movement of the B-string, and if I, or he, were to make it 1:1, I would instead have the entire string B string buzz against the frets. I think the problem here is that:

A) it's the first time I have an instrument this expensive in my hands, so I'm quite paranoid about any type of deviance
B) it's the first time I play a bass that has dual truss rods, so I have all sorts of worries in my head (if there is anything in there?), a lot of them probably unfounded, but better safe than sorry!
C) I had this worry that any alternating action would warp the neck long-term, and not considering that (and I hope I am correct here) the two truss rods are there for extra stability, to minimize the chance of warpage, and to allow greater flexibility in adjusting the setup to what suits me. In short: There is no right or wrong, as long as the differences aren't very big between both sides.
D) it's a dream for many people to own an Alembic, so I also want to honor that by taking great care of the instrument

Sorry for the wall of text to everyone so far! I hope it's okay - else let me know, and I will try to shorten my replies.

Kind regards
Oscar

[Notachemist]

*Disregard this post - I made a mistake while trying to edit a post and ended up quoting myself instead!*

[JimmyJ]

Hey Oscar,

Thanks for the report, we're glad you're enjoying that thing.

That's great if you like the "50/50" spot on the pan pot.  I believe you can also use the trim pots in the electronic cavity to further tweak the balance at that spot.  But if it's already good then you're already there.

Q-switches in the boost position will give you bonus top-end which can be great for slap-style for example.  With the Q-controls wide open it's quite a high frequency you're boosting.  If that's too much "sizzle" then click them off - or maybe just one - and hear what that does.  With the switches in the off position the Q-frequency controls work like standard low-pass filters or treble roll-offs.  With the switch "on" that roll-off frequency gets a boost so as you turn the knob it can almost sound like a wah-wah pedal sweeping through the frequencies. 

Some Alembic guys really use those onboard controls creatively and come up with some great sounds.  I'm lazy and rarely move any of my controls.  I do add a touch of top-end Q-boost to the bridge pickup only.  Middle switch setting on my older Series I and just a few degrees of the variable control boost on my Series IIs.  But find what you like and go for it!!

Yes, the electronics in these instruments are amazing.  Designer Ron Wickersham is an absolute audio wizard so we have him to thank for the BIG TONE.

I don't actually know about the truss rod channels that run through the neck - how they're laid, lined, or whatever.  Somebody else in here might chime in and describe them in more detail if you're interested.  My understanding of the system is that the truss rods just help the neck stay straight when the strings are trying to pull it forward.  They're in there to balance the forces.  My 5-strings necks are fairly narrow but I don't think there is a "block" so much as just a "plate" on the adjustable end of the rods - and presumably the same up in the headstock somewhere.  And most likely brass plates, not copper, unless that was part of an original custom build (because Alembic can literally do anything).

I think how you set up your action is a really personal thing.  Certainly your low B-string can physically move about 100 times farther than your high G-string.  But I've never really thought about having the actual neck relief different from one side to the other.  Maybe just tilt the bridge a bit to lift the low strings higher, if you know what I mean.  Again, my close-spaced necks are narrower than yours but I've always just adjusted the rods in unison and never noticed them doing anything different from one side of the fingerboard to the other.  Don't be afraid to try, they're made to be adjustable.  The only time mine need attention is when the weather moves the wood, so maybe a couple times a year. 

Carry on.  Keep us updated!
Jimmy J

[Notachemist]

Hey Oscar,

Thanks for the report, we're glad you're enjoying that thing.

That's great if you like the "50/50" spot on the pan pot.  I believe you can also use the trim pots in the electronic cavity to further tweak the balance at that spot.  But if it's already good then you're already there.

Q-switches in the boost position will give you bonus top-end which can be great for slap-style for example.  With the Q-controls wide open it's quite a high frequency you're boosting.  If that's too much "sizzle" then click them off - or maybe just one - and hear what that does.  With the switches in the off position the Q-frequency controls work like standard low-pass filters or treble roll-offs.  With the switch "on" that roll-off frequency gets a boost so as you turn the knob it can almost sound like a wah-wah pedal sweeping through the frequencies. 

Some Alembic guys really use those onboard controls creatively and come up with some great sounds.  I'm lazy and rarely move any of my controls.  I do add a touch of top-end Q-boost to the bridge pickup only.  Middle switch setting on my older Series I and just a few degrees of the variable control boost on my Series IIs.  But find what you like and go for it!!

Yes, the electronics in these instruments are amazing.  Designer Ron Wickersham is an absolute audio wizard so we have him to thank for the BIG TONE.

I don't actually know about the truss rod channels that run through the neck - how they're laid, lined, or whatever.  Somebody else in here might chime in and describe them in more detail if you're interested.  My understanding of the system is that the truss rods just help the neck stay straight when the strings are trying to pull it forward.  They're in there to balance the forces.  My 5-strings necks are fairly narrow but I don't think there is a "block" so much as just a "plate" on the adjustable end of the rods - and presumably the same up in the headstock somewhere.  And most likely brass plates, not copper, unless that was part of an original custom build (because Alembic can literally do anything).

I think how you set up your action is a really personal thing.  Certainly your low B-string can physically move about 100 times farther than your high G-string.  But I've never really thought about having the actual neck relief different from one side to the other.  Maybe just tilt the bridge a bit to lift the low strings higher, if you know what I mean.  Again, my close-spaced necks are narrower than yours but I've always just adjusted the rods in unison and never noticed them doing anything different from one side of the fingerboard to the other.  Don't be afraid to try, they're made to be adjustable.  The only time mine need attention is when the weather moves the wood, so maybe a couple times a year. 

Carry on.  Keep us updated!
Jimmy J

Hey Jimmy

I find it interesting how, as for now, my tonal preferences keep changing on a daily basis - perhaps I am tweaking filters in my sleep! I noticed how Mica, in the electronics post you linked earlier, sometimes utilized the pan knob as a treble / bass control, which I find really shows how versatile the controls are, once you become more familiar with them. I do still find myself looking for that "classic" treble / bass knob, while playing! I may be wrong, but is the lack of a Q-switch on a Series instrument because of the CVQ knob, which is similar in theory and function, but allows for more precise adjustment, instead of the "on-off" Q-switch on a signature bass?

And I find the attention to detail in craftsmanship really astounding on these instruments, once you actually have them in your hands. One thing is the woodwork and choice of materials (I dont think I have ever seen aircraft fasteners on a bass bridge before) and what you see on the "surface". I always knew Alembics were something special, but small details like having (brass?) inserts, instead of bare wood, in the holes that keep the truss rod cover in place, to minimize the chance of stripping the screw holes (I assume, at least) are also part of the discovery of why these instruments are so special - at least to me.

I found the Owners Manual on this website, and read Mica's suggestion on how to measure the relief with a medium sized pick. Possibly because I am a little bit of a perfectionist (perhaps another reason I was drawn to Alembic?) and perhaps in text I was exaggerating the relief when talking about the truss rods - I took a look at the rods underneath the truss rod cover, and they seem to be nearly identical in distance. I haven't done any adjustments to them.

I took a picture of the rods and uploaded them, if your interested: https://imgur.com/a/WTEjvxN

I compared them with a picture made a while ago on this forum http://alembic.com/club/messages/394/49337.html?1221650444

Kind regards
Oscar