HELP! Truss rods is 1997 Epic

[Alembic AZ]

I recently purchased ‘97 Epic from a friend who never really played it.  I took it to a friend to try and remove a buzz in the 2nd and 3rd frets on the D and G string. I could see it had a slight back bow and figured no big deal. we took the cover off the truss rod opening and found both truss rods moving freely, no tension at all.  When we looked at the Alembic sight on how to adjust it explained to turn clockwise  to increase back bow and turn counter clockwise to increase forward bow.  Because there is no tension on either truss rod I can only turn clockwise to start to feel tension.  I don’t want back bow I need some forward bow.  If I turn counter clock wise the truss rod just keeps turning freely like it is just going to totally unscrew.  My friend said he believes they are single action truss rods..I have a hard time believing that Alembic would put in truss rods that can only adjust one way. At this point the bass is useless.  I have crap basses that I can adjust the truss rods both ways.  I am sure I am missing something.  Please help!  Thank you!

[JimmyJ]

Hey Thomas,

Try raising the bridge on the G-string side (or maybe both sides) to see if you can get a little bow back into the neck.  The best situation is to have at least snug truss rods.  You could also try some heavier gauge strings...  Let us know what you figure out.

Jimmy J

[edwardofhuncote]

For sure, they are single-acting rods.


There is a post here somewhere (will have to look for it...) where a Club Member with a similar issue put a book under his strings overnight. Not sure if that's how I'd approach this right off, but it did resolve his slight backbow. I'll look for that post...


*here it is- https://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=23315.msg233661#msg233661


Wood has a memory. If the bass has been detuned for a long period (you did say it was basically unplayed) then it may need to be tensioned up for a while for the neck to display some relief. Jimmy J's suggestion of heavier strings is a good start.

[KR]

You can try 'helping' a neck into position by slacking the rods and then tuning the strings up a full step or so above regular tuning --leaving it that way for a couple of days. Some (Dan Erlewine) will try to massage the neck by bending it physically, helping it some.

[jon_jackson]

I'm one of those who has used the "book" method Greg mentioned in the thread linked above. Very successful with it on both long and short scale basses. To me, the key is patience and slow movement over several days, similar to truss rod adjustments going the other direction. See the other thread for details.

[Alembic AZ]

Thank you everyone!  I did raise the right side of the bridge and also the nut…if I play back by the bridge the buzz is almost non existent. But the action feels a little higher than I would like. I really think the book method may be the answer. I was hoping I had overlooked something but I guess I haven’t. I do live in Arizona and it is quite dry.  I have an appointment with a very reputable luthier at the end of the week who I am sure has seen everything this climate can through at a musical instrument. I will see what he has to say. I will probably try the book method after I see the luthier if he has no other options.  I will keep you all posted after I see him and also if I try the book method.  🙏✌️

[Alembic AZ]

I'm one of those who has used the "book" method Greg mentioned in the thread linked above. Very successful with it on both long and short scale basses. To me, the key is patience and slow movement over several days, similar to truss rod adjustments going the other direction. See the other thread for details.

I’m assuming I should take all the tension off the truss rods before I add the book and add the tension to the neck?

[edwardofhuncote]

I'm one of those who has used the "book" method Greg mentioned in the thread linked above. Very successful with it on both long and short scale basses. To me, the key is patience and slow movement over several days, similar to truss rod adjustments going the other direction. See the other thread for details.

I’m assuming I should take all the tension off the truss rods before I add the book and add the tension to the neck?

Yes.


From the original post, I thought they already were at a slack or neutral position. Get some relief in the neck first, with a book (or whatever... I would probably do something else, but that seems to have worked for at least two or three other folks) then adjust the neck to where you want it.


Let us know how it goes.

[jon_jackson]

Yes, no tension in the truss rods. To be clear, I used small pieces of wood to target pressure on the area desired. 

[Alembic AZ]

I have started the book method and looking at the neck strung with the book it has a nice slight forward bow. I will leave it for another 24 hours and then tune it up and see what happens. I will be seeing a luthier tomorrow afternoon. If the neck retains even the slightest forward bow after I tune it up I believe my problem will be solved. I would post a picture but I can’t seem to get them small enough to post. One thing good is we have just started Monsoon season here in Arizona which means the humidity will be higher than usual. Good for bass hopefully, not so much for people. 🙏✌️

[Songdog]

One thing good is we have just started Monsoon season here in Arizona which means the humidity will be higher than usual. Good for bass hopefully, not so much for people. 🙏✌️

I don't know how your bass will react to humidity - but my Alembic tends to back-bow (decreasing relief) when the humidity rises. I'm not sure but I think this tendency has decreased since I first got it and started diligently lemon oiling the ebony fretboard.

[bigredbass]

And just to cover all the what-ifs:

IF the fingerboard looks dry at all, be sure and oil it with non petroleum-thinned lemon oil if you can find some, if not the F1 Fingerboard Oil works as well.

I had a problem child bass I kept chasing the action, the relief was up and down and up and down . . . and I looked down after a while and thought, 'that fingerboard sure looks dry'.  Was it ever.  Took a little over 2 coats of F1 before it quit just inhaling it.

The neck settled right down.

[edwardofhuncote]

I always wonder if it's got something to do with how an ebony (or rosewood) fingerboard and maple neck expand/contract at different rates given a same/same relative humidity. My brain tells me they're bonded together with glue, and it shouldn't matter, yet that is a very long span. And I suppose glue joints are not immune from stretching too. Otherwise, how would a heat press work?


How'd your adjustment go here AZ?

[BeenDown139]

my $0.02 USD:

I always wonder if it's got something to do with how an ebony (or rosewood) fingerboard and maple neck expand/contract at different rates given a same/same relative humidity. My

well if ya do it with metal it becomes a thermometer.  pretty sure the same principle applies with wood and humidity.  expansion is expansion.

i've got a fretless essence that i refer to as my walnut top hygrometer.  it's unusually affected by changes in humidity.  it's got a nice thick slab of open grain ebony on top, gloss finished maple underneath.  pretty sure they absorb humidity at different rates and expand/contract differently as well.  my other fretless does this but not to the same degree.  the fretted basses keep their own council, it seems.

<edit> liberal applications of lemon seem to have helped to some degree.  in the meantime, i've become pretty adept at straightening bass necks.