Screws can no longer be removed

[Strat1961]

 I would love to get help on how to disassemble my bridge, adjust my truss rod and adjust my nut despite the fact that the screws have been damaged by humidity.

My Alembic bass has been stored in humid conditions for a while. I have now recovered it and am trying to fix it. Everything is still in good shapes except the screws. Using the recommended hex drivers, I find that they either are too small (i.e. the hole seems to have gotten bigger) or to big (there may be rust in the holes).

Specifically for the truss rod, I use a 7 mm open wrench. Once there is the slightest tension, it is unable to turn the truss rod as it slips. There is a clear between the wrench and the nut. Yet a 6mm wrench is too small.

For removing the bridge, I try with a 2 mm hex driver - but it does not enter. And 1.5 is too small.

Note that I am using metric tools. It is clearly not the main issue as different screws are simply different sizes now because of humidity. But I would be interested in hearing whether I should nevertheless get imperial tools.

I have found all the replacement parts and am ready to order. But I first need to be able to remove the bridge, and even remove the truss rod nuts.

[StephenR]

Are you sure that using metric tools is not the issue? If you read through the recommended tool sizes they are not metric sizes. Humidity could cause rust but not change the size of anything made of metal, i.e. cause it to expand or contract. In case you have not seen it yet here is the forum page where Mica lists all the tools needed to set up and maintain an Alembic instrument.
https://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=200.0

It may help if you post some pictures and also let us know what parts you feel need replacing. Perhaps there is damage from using the wrong size tools? It would be incredibly odd for every screw and hex nut on an instrument to get wonky  from being stored in humid conditions.

On a related note, if your bass is older and has any brass screws Alembic no longer uses those as they can break. I removed my tailpiece to clean it a few years back and realized that one of the brass screws had snapped in the middle. Luckily it was fairly easy to extract but it is recommended to replace any brass screws with stainless steel. Hang in there, I am sure others will chime in with more advice...

[gtrguy]

I would not use metric hex wrenches. The smallest bit off in size can will either not work or can strip the inside of the bolt/screw. When all else fails, locking pliers (vise grips) and new bolts are called for. The vise grips come in many sizes. WD40 applied around a rag may help loosen stuck bolts too, but will also help in stripping the inside of the hex opening if the wrong wrench is used..

[mica]

We have handtools available in our webstore if you can't find them locally. You might need to replace the screws in the bridge, and we sell kits of screws to do just that.

Metric sizes don't map exactly, and can certainly make the screws inoperable.

If you don't want the hex drivers we sell, you can request a no charge set of hex keys on any order from the webstore - so if you get the truss rod wrench and the bridge screws, just ask for the keys in the comment area.

[Strat1961]

Thank you so much to everyone for your replies. I have ordered everything from Alembic - the Imperial tools, new screws, nuts, etc.
On related renovation question: the truss rod cover is missing and the cover for the electronics cavity has a corner missing. I don't see those for order on the website. Same for the machine heads which have been damaged by corrosion. Are these not for sale?

[lbpesq]

Hi Brian, and welcome to the club.   What year is your Alembic?   Early ones did not have a truss rod cover.    As for the tuners, you can get replacements from Alembic.  I suspect they can also help with a new control cavity cover.  From your forum name, I assume you have a ‘61 Strat?   I’ve had my ‘61 since around 1975.   I had Alembic copy the neck when I had my custom Further built.

Bill, tgo

[mica]

Tuners, truss rod covers and cover plates can be ordered separately, but there are many variables so these are handled case by case. Best way is to send some pictures to me and I can figure out the path for getting things fitted.

The plate complication arises because these parts are all handcrafted - so to get the best fit we need the instrument here. Absent that, some careful measuring and a few tricks can make a very good fit, possibly one that might need a little tweaking locally by a skilled guitar repair person.

Likewise the variables in the machine heads just make a case for individual attention on the project to assure that they will fit correctly.

[JimmyJ]

Brian has posted some pics in this other thread:
https://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=27588.msg280472#msg280472

A Persuader, but with double split pickups?  Those look like standard Schaller M4 tuners (w/side screws) and there may have been a standard back and truss rod cover plate size for that model?  But I know those plates are often hand fitted...

Jimmy J