Alembic Spoiler String height

[bassvibes]

I currently have a Spoiler - a great sounding bass- but I have a bit of a problem with the action.  My tech set it up with 3/16 on E and 1/8 on G at 24th fret.  My tech said the reason for the high action at the higher end of the neck is that there is a lot of fall off on the fretboard by design.  This gives me a bit of a problem as I often play at the 'dusty' end of the neck up to around 21st fret on D and G strings.  I am absolutely fine playing anywhere up to the 12th fret.

Is the higher action there typical on a Alembic Spoiler?

[hammer]

I’d hesitate to say anything on an Alembic is “typical” because these are custom basses built by hand. I have several and the action is setup bit different on each so it I get minimal if any string buzz and the height works well with my style of play. I assume by fall off you are referring to to the radius of the fretboard. Is that correct? If the current string height isn’t working for you I’d bring it back to your tech if you don’t want to adjust it yourself. With its bridge, nut, and truss rods, and the possibility of different gauge strings, there are a number of differ ways one can make adjustments to the neck and fretboard of your bass in order to find something that works for you. Your playing up that high on the fretboard if it’s as much as you suggests begs for the acquisition of a 5-string Alembic with a high C.

[adriaan]

There is always Joey's Post On Setting Up Your Bass. Just follow the instructions (and use the right tools).

[pauldo]

There is always Joey's Post On Setting Up Your Bass. Just follow the instructions (and use the right tools).

^^^^ This. 
Show it to your tech or have at it yourself. 
As Brain mentioned these instruments are designed for functional adjustment and are built with meticulous craftsmanship. 

If I understand correctly you want the action lower and the action gets higher as you go up the neck? 
There allegedly have been rare instances when drastic humidity/ dry conditions have occurred where necks need to be re-set.  Has this bass ever seen excessive moisture?
 

[bassvibes]

So my bass is set up exactly as prescribed in Joey's bass notes measured at the 24th fret.  This seems high to me.

Compared to my Ric the action is much higher on the Spoiler after the 12th fret and after the 15th fret is very difficult to fret. 

The neck did need heat treatment but is stable now

[keith_h]

I typically set my small body short scale basses at the 12th fret with 5/64" (1.9 mm) for the E string and 1/16" (1.5 mm) for the G string. I don't know what that turns out to be at the 24th fret. I know of other members who use similar numbers for setting their string height. I set my relief at the 7th fret to .035" (.88 mm).

[bassvibes]

I typically set my small body short scale basses at the 12th fret with 5/64" (1.9 mm) for the E string and 1/16" (1.5 mm) for the G string. I don't know what that turns out to be at the 24th fret. I know of other members who use similar numbers for setting their string height. I set my relief at the 7th fret to .035" (.88 mm).

I play with a pick and fairly hard attack.  Honestly, I don't think I could get my action that low without a lot of fret buzz. 

[keith_h]

Even if those numbers are to low for your playing style your bass should be capable of lower action than you have. Not knowing how much time was spent between neck adjustments I would go back and check those again. Some necks can take 24 - 48 hours to settle in after a truss rod adjustment allowing for over adjusting if not allowed to rest in-between turns of the truss rods. Your mention of the bass having needed a heat bend makes me lean to neck relief being involved. Of course without seeing the bass it is hard to say what needs adjusting or if the higher action is due to something else. 

[hammer]

I play with a pick at least 50% of the time and my measurements approximate those specified by Keith. I have no problem with buzz so it is certainly possible for a relatively aggressive player to have low action without any associated problems.  It may take some playing around with things but after being VERY reluctant to do my own set-ups, I followed Joey's suggestions and ended up with a feel and functionality that suits me well. In fact, the process itself was quite instructive in learning about the differences in the fretboards and necks of my alembic instruments. Now doing a good setup on my fretless was another story.

[keith_h]

- snip -

 Now doing a good setup on my fretless was another story.

IMO setting up a fretless bass requires a more holistic approach. Measurements might give you a starting point from scratch but there is no real way to measure the fingerboard interference with the string that creates the mwah and swell we all look for. The only way to get things right is by making small adjustments and listening to the result. It is a much more time consuming process for me to setup my Orion 4 as the sweet spot to yuck is not that much requiring a light touch. 

[adriaan]

Don't focus on measurements. Adjust to where you like the action, take it a little further to see if it is still playable, and bring it back a little if you've gone too far.

[bassvibes]

It's measuring at just above 2.75 on 12th E string.

[pauldo]

… 

The neck did need heat treatment but is stable now

How long ago was the neck reset? 
Are you certain it was reset proper?


Paul (who asks the 2nd question with no disrespect… purely based on my own fears of anyone except Alembic resetting it)

[bassvibes]

The neck had a back bow in it and the truss rod and string tension was not enough to counter the back bow so it was heat treated. 

This was done about 3 months ago by a guitar tech in UK.  I mentioned that my tech said it a had fall-away by design as per his email to me here...

"Fall-away is something that bass builders use or not depending on their understanding. As the neck is correct in the 1st 12th position - where the truss rod works, I have now set-up the guitar in this area. This leaves a higher action in the upper section due to the fallaway.  The reason I know that this bass had massive fall-away is because you cannot put that fall-away into a neck with heat treating it"

Is the heat treatment same as a neck reset? 

[pauldo]

I do NOT know.  I used the term “reset” as a simile of “heat treatment”.

My understanding is that ‘heat treatment’ loosens the glues holding the neck laminates (and fingerboard) in place.  The neck is then ‘reset’ and held in place while the glue re-cures….  So yeah, they are the same to me.  A luthier may know better.