Bridge disassembly

[Dave Houck (davehouck)]

I would like to disassemble by bridge to better clean and polish the hard to get to areas.  Is there any reason why I shouldn't be able to do this?  Is there anything I should be wary of?  Have many of you done this?  What really got me thinking about this is the appearance of a little rust on two of the intonation adjustment screws.
 
Thanks,
 
Dave Houck

[Dino Monoxelos (dean_m)]

Hey Dave,
 
I've taken my bridge apart a number of times to clean.  That's the beauty of an Alembic bridge. Plus it's always good to maintain your bridge. Be sure not to lose the little lock nuts that hold the intonation bolts and the hight adjustment bolts in place.  They can be tough to find if you drop them on a carpet.  Also make notes or even a little mark on the slider bar, this is the bar the saddle slides back and forth on.  Do this so you won't lose your intonation adjustments.  Alembic recommends Flitz metal polish which works really well.  I use a product called Wrights brass polish. You can get either in any hardware store.  It almost makes the brass look gold when you first use it.  Take your time and enjoy seeing how these bridges are put together.  It really is amazing.
 
Good Luck,
Dino

[Dave Houck (davehouck)]

Thanks Dino,
 
I've been using Flitz, but it's difficult doing a thorough job without taking the thing apart.  I'll keep in mind your advice on the small parts and slider bar.
 
Dave

[Joey Wilson (bigredbass)]

Dave:
 
I'd echo Dean's comments.  From experience, let me recommend you note which way it's facing.  I completely reassembled mine backwards with the saddles facing the wrong way !  Flitz or Wright's works well.  I lubed the threaded rods LIGHTLY with BreakFreeCLP, a space age 3-in-1 oil replacement.  I also applied a LIGHT coating of VO5 to the clean parts to keep 'em shiny longer.
 
I'd also suggest doing this at new string time.  Make a diagram of the positions of your bridge saddles, and the bridge height.  This will speed up your re-intonation after you go back together.

[Dave Houck (davehouck)]

Thanks Joey,
 
I appreciate the note about reassembling backwards, I'll definitely keep that in mind!  I had thought about lubricating the rods; I'll look for that oil or something like it.  And I'll remember your advice on the bridge height too.
 
Dave

[Dino Monoxelos (dean_m)]

Hey Joey,
 
VO5, the hair stuff!?!?  That's cool, I've been looking for something that might keep the brass a bit longer.

[Joey Wilson (bigredbass)]

Dino:
 
Yes, VO5 the hair stuff.  In a gold toothpaste-type tube.  I realize this is 'Hints from Heloise' type stuff, but it works well.  It's organic, and certainly harmless to the wood finish and the brass/metal parts.  BUT PLEASE use a VERY light amount after the Flitz does its thing.  If it feels any more than slick to your touch (NOT greasy), you've used too much.  It will really stretch your intervals for polishing your brass and gold parts.
 
The BreakFreeCLP is a mil-spec firearms lubricant that Uncle Sam issues with every military arm short of howitzers and M-1A tanks.  It's inert with finishes AND electronics.  I only use this on threaded parts (the bridge rods thru the saddles, truss rod nuts, etc.).  I don't lube pots, tuning keys, etc.  It's the greatest stuff especially for Floyd type trems.  Lots of us have problems with bridge bits rusting from contact with our hands; this stuff eliminates that totally.  Again, leave only the lightest film on these parts.  BreakFreeCLP can be found at most places that sell sporting goods.  Usually, I buy both products at WalMart.

[Paul Ellsworth (elzie)]

Wow! That's a good tip Joey. I am going to look for that BreakFreeCLP for the Floyd Rose and Khaler(sp) soon. As for the V05, I think they would look at how little hair I had left and get a good laugh if I tried to buy that.......