lowering action on Orion 4 E string

[Glynn]

Just thinking that I might benefit from a slightly lower string height on my E string on Orion 4.  Very reluctant to experiment myself but if I can pluck up the courage, which screws etc do I go for? (sorry to be a bit dim)
The 24th fret is 2/16" at 12th fret and just under 3/16" at 24th fret.  I don't want to rattle and tend to "dig in" when playing, but a slightly lower height might be nice in lower frets for fingers getting old!.  Everything else is fine.
Glynn

[lbpesq]

Don’t be afraid to adjust your Alembic.  These instruments are essentially foolproof.  You probably couldn’t do any damage, even if you tried!  The best place to start is with Joey’s post on setting up an Alembic bass, which is pretty close to the Holy Grail around here.  You can find it here:

http://club.alembic.com/index.php?topic=311.0#new

Good luck and stay safe,

Bill, tgo

[jacko]

I've often thought individually adjustable bridge saddles would be a good idea as you can't adjust the height of a single string. My A string could do with being a millimetre lower but I'm loth to take a file to the saddle.

Graeme

[keith_h]

There is nothing to be afraid of. I have been doing my own setups for years and like Bill started with Joey's setup post then tweaking it to suit my preferences.

To lower or raise the bridge you would use the large hex screws on each each end. These are the same ones that attach the bridge to the body. Clockwise lowers and counter clockwise raises the side the screw is on. Adjusting it will have an effect on all strings with the most being on the string closest to the screw being adjusted. It won't take much movement to change the height of the string so work in small increments until you find the height you like.

As to rattle. I will have little bit acoustically digging in when my basses are adjusted the way I like. As long as it doesn't come through the amp, and I use a lot of high end, I don't consider it a problem. However from experience I've found it doesn't take much to tweak the rattle out acoustically.

Edit: One thing that came to mind if you decide to adjust the truss rod and I don't remember if it is in Joey's post. Tightening the truss rod tends to see immediate results however loosening the rod might or might not see an immediate change. Until I know how a bass reacts when loosening the truss rod I usually let the bass sit overnight to be sure it has finished moving. If the relief is where I want it the next day I will then finish the setup otherwise its rinse and repeat. Again the key to the adjustment is using small increments. 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn can result in a lot of change. 

[Glynn]

Thanks for that.  If it is the hex screw facing us (photo attached) then I can't move it.  It doesn't seem to have anything to do with the body.  I had already looked at Joey's post but it doesn't seem to mention the bridge.

[keith_h]

It would be this screw that is on top.

[Glynn]

By the way - I re-checked the measurements from my first post (a bit confusing).  It should have read 4/32 at 12th and 17th frets. Then 5/32 at 24th fret - all on E string.

[Glynn]

Thanks Keith - that is working perfectly.  As you say, it doesn't take much of a turn to make a difference - I went from a quarter at first to nearly a half and will probably leave it at that. Fretting the E string does seem a lot easier on the fingers.  Many thanks.
Glynn