Signature to Anniversary

[jazzyvee]

I'm in the process of finalising my upgrade to anniversary electronics for my SC Deluxe and signature Europa bass. For the Europa I am adding a bass boost switch that usually comes with a standard Europa/Rogue bass but instead of having a bass cut option I want two boost settings. Hopefully Mica will say that is possible. The reason for that is that sometimes when doing reggae I want to add some more meat to the bottom end in a drum and bass section without having to close the filter down and up the volume or on other occasions add some gentle heft to the bottom when I'm playing quieter whilst the   vocalist is talking to the crowd and I want to reduce the overall volume but keep the deep feel in the bottom end. I hope I get the green light from that.

One question I'd like your input on is the location of the pickup selector switch. have a look at the two pictures below. I'm going for a circular one because there will be less room for a pointy switch between the two volume knobs and the bridge or pickup than either an anniversary or series bass that has been designed with that switch in mind.


If you have done the mod and kept the pointy switch, did it work out ok and does it get in the way of operating either of the volume knobs. I would rather keep the position of the switch close to the two volumes for familiarity with my series basses rather than move it somewhere non standard.
Practically it would be easier to grab and operate the pointy switch and feel what position it is in whilst playing but depending on it's position it may impede quick access to the two volume knobs.

For the boost switch I would like it to be where the existing LED switch is (closest to the outer right edge of the bass) and move the LED function to the short throw switch nearest the jack, which currently is the mute switch and never used and will become redundant when I have the anniversary switch installed.

[edwardofhuncote]

I can't offer much in the way of helpful advice, but wholeheartedly applaud the effort, Jazzy... sounds like some great, common-sense mods. You only need to figure out what will work best for you from a user-friendly perspective. Go man, go. 

[adriaan]

Do you actually use the pickup selector on your Series basses? You might consider ordering the package without the selector, or with a master volume instead.

[jazzyvee]

Yes I do use it mostly for the neck pickup. I can't really think of a time when I use the bridge on it's own. But, you make a good point that I had not considered as an option. That said as I gig more with my series I bass than the II, so whenever I use the series II on a gig, I almost forget I have a master volume and adjust both volumes to drop the volume or just play lightly. hmmmmm

[keith_h]

I can't speak to the pointy knob with the selector switch near the controls. I will say I am happy with the round knob in the tradition selector switch position and have never had a problem determining where it was set. 

I think your idea for the Europa is a good one. I've found over the years that the LED's are either on or off (mostly one) so having the switch out of  the way isn't a big deal. Also by putting the boost in the current LED switch location you don't have to retrain your muscle memory for the various pickup controls.

[jazzyvee]

I got the two electronics packages yesterday with the other goodies, T-shirts badges etc and managed to get the new loom into the SC Deluxe. However at the moment I don't have access to a pillar drill to put the holes in for the pickup selector and mono stereo switch but my mate has a carpentry business so will do the deeds for me once the covid restrictions allow. But those two bits are insulated and are in the cavity until the drilling can be done.

I set the stereo/mono switch to stereo so I could try bi-amping with my new F-2B. I'm more comfortable now with the two volumes for bass so the signature feels more familiar in terms of how I move the controls to get sounds I want.

I've spent most of the day playing it through two barefaced cabs and my rack in stereo and it sounds great. Then this evening I plugged in my 1980 series i shorty to compare and Jeepers......the difference was incredible. I play the series basses most of the time at home, saves the batteries, but when you play it in isolation you kind of know it sounds great and in a sense you don't really think anything more about it, and it's only when play it alongside another bass you realise just how different these series basses sound even compared to other alembics.

I know all the alembics sound great but there is a clear sonic reason the series basses are the pinnale of the alembic range. I'm so glad I have a choice.
I have a few queries about the fitting of the second loom in my Europa signature bass so will have to be patient until I can speak to the mothership.

I'm glad I managed to get the upgrade and from my experience so far I would highly recommend it and I think it's going to make both basses much more versatile for my needs anyway. :-)

[edwardofhuncote]

Well done, Jazzy. Good call, making your controls all work in a similar way.

I am not surprised by how quickly you heard the wider spectrum of Series electronics... I noticed this immediately too, and I think most of us would. It does make one appreciate the simpler activator circuits though, and how incredibly responsive they are. I still say, there isn't a gig on the planet I couldn't do with my original Alembic, Persuader 5-string. Then you plug in a Series I... and a whole extra set of parameters becomes available. A bigger sonic playground.

Looking forward to your thoughts on the post-upgraded Europa too. As an aside, I received shipping confirmation from Alembic on my Telecaster activators and wiring loom yesterday.

English-to-English translations... I figured out "loom" must be what I would think of as a "harness", but because I am interested in shop tools, "pillar drill"? Is this a "drill press"?

[jazzyvee]

This is what a pillar drill is
https://www.axminstertools.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/920x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/0/102553_xl.jpg
I think you will love the telecaster activators. I have SS activators in a couple of strats and they are splendid!! To me it gives the guitar a slight acoustic guitar quality and a really strong but pleasant attack. I found alembic guitars and those with alembic pickups in really unpleasant with a solid state or digital overdrive/distortion pedals but a valve one works superbly I have Radial Trimode Tonebone and Classic British pedals and in my rack unit I have a peavey Tube sweetener which is lovely but too much hiss.

I look forward to your findings on that tele.

[rv_bass]

Jazeevee, interesting that you replaced the pan with separate volume controls.  I replaced the separate volume controls with a pan control and master volume on my fretless Spoiler and really like it.

[jazzyvee]

When I first had my bass I liked the idea of a single volume because I had little experience of bass playing (being a guitarist at the time) and I have always preferred strat style guitars with a single volume so that setup was more intuitive to me when moving to bass. However having got more into playing a series bass I have found that being able to choose the volume of each pickup much more flexible for my needs.  Now I find that I want a master volume on my basses with two volumes so I can raise the overall volume and keep my individual pickup ratios in tact. But that's something I can live with. :-)

[jazzyvee]

Today I got the new loom into my signature Europa5, though the mono/stereo switch on the new loom was wired as if the switch was above the jack socket, which from the pictures I have seen is the norm. Unfortunately the location for this switch to go on my bass is below the jack socket where a previous mute switch was located. So there was not enough slack to get it to where it needed to be without cutting one of the cable ties. Eventually I got it to fit but it was tight and took some fiddling to get the jack socket and switch into a position that did not bock the jack socket contacts when the jack plug was inserted. Phew. So at the moment as with the my SC deluxe I just need to wait till the covid risk is low enough for me to take it to my friend's carpentry workshop to drill a. hole for the pickup selector switch. I probably need to get the circular knob for that switch because the pointy one may be a bit too big and awkward to use without moving either of the two vol switches.

I've ordered a stereo splitter jack cable with metal neutrix jacks as the existing trs cable I tried from my guitar pedal board has plastic jacks and don't allow the metal part of the jack to extend far enough into the socket to locate firm and make the contact.
I'm much happier now that all my gigging basses now operate on the same principle. :-)

[jazzyvee]

I need to take a drill to my basses to install the pickup selector switch does anyone know the exact size drill I need for the selector switch and the stereo/mono switch so I get it right first time. Preferably metric as that's probably easier to get over here in the UK than imperial measurements.

[rv_bass]

Jazzyvee you are scaring me.

[jazzyvee]

I am quite nervous about it too but it needs to be done right first time without damaging the finish and wood in the cavity.

[edwardofhuncote]

Clamp a sacrificial wood block behind where you plan to bore, especially for Cocobolo... rosewoods tend to tear out in long shards. Use a brad-point bit. These are nice. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/drill-bits/brad-point-drill-bit-sets.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2021-04-gp&gclid=CjwKCAjwgZuDBhBTEiwAXNofRIhLZ5LUcHBw1plelljj5zx61h-qFmeEUiY73JJB6DN9JWqHh0iTgxoCvDAQAvD_BwE


*apologies for the wacky-lookin' link.