need to lubricate bridge mounting screws

[hieronymous]

I have asked this before somewhere - even asked Mica, but forgot the answer! So I'm asking again here so that I can check the answer if I forget.

I finally got a custom gauge low B string for my Stanley Clarke Signature Squared - LaBella nickel roundwound - but the ball end is still tapered so I want to trade out the low B bridge saddle. Last time I took the bridge assembly apart to change out the EADGC saddles for the original BEADG saddles, it was really hard to get the bridge mounting screws out - it made a horrible noise and they were really hard to turn. Can I just lubricate them somehow? What's the best way to do so? Here's a pic of that time:



Thank you in advance! I really want to do this soon so that I can get some new strings on this thing - I haven't played it much since the new year because the strings are so old and cruddy.

* And before you try and get custom LaBella strings, it turns out they stopped taking orders right after my order got put in - change in policy apparently.

** And I know the bridge needs to be polished - not sure that's going to happen this time around, I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to that.

[wayne]

This:  https://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-CLP-PS-Precision-Shooter/dp/B0050GWAVG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525748111&sr=8-4&keywords=break+free+clp

Get it on the threads.  Let is sit for a bit.  Work the screw until everything is apart.  Use more CLP and a rag to clean all the gunk off - even inside the saddles. Wipe everything down and then put a light coat of CLP on the threads before putting everything back together.

C-Ya..........wayne

[growlypants]

What about plain old WD-40?

[bigredbass]

I don't want WD anywhere near any of my axes.  I highly recommend the BreakFree that Wayne mentions.  It's one of those firearm 'wonderlubes', and it's totally harmless to finishes and electronics.  It'll coat those parts and you'll never have to do this again.  Note that it's a lube that doesn't creep like WD or Liquid Wrench, no 3 and 1 either.  BreakFree is the best I've ever used, and for those of you that just have to play guitar, it's the greatest for tremolos, especially Floyds and the like, in that it tends to 'sweatproof' the parts as well.

[gtrguy]

That bridge needs to be removed and taken apart and cleaned. Properly done, it really needs no lube on it. Soaking it in WD40 a bit while laying on a rag will not hurt the bridge. I typically clean the threads with a small wire brush attachment using my Minimo or Dremel. I use quad ought (0000) ultra fine steel wool and Brasso on the brass parts.

Afterwards you could spray the brass parts with clear lacquer if you cleaned any and all residue off it, or just be resigned to polishing the brass every few years. It is also possible the lacquer could clog internal threads, so I have the right tap handy. NOTE: take good photos of it first to properly put it back together later!

I clean fretboards on vintage guitars and basses all the time with WD40. I have several I have been using it on for multiple decades now and it works fine.

Of course I do not spray it on, but I wipe it on with a rag, and then make sure to wipe it off right afterwards. It's funny how many people are horrified by the thought of doing this. I was showed this trick by a world class luthier about 40+ years ago.

[lbpesq]

I have used a product called Tri-Flow to loosen up an Alembic bridge that I thought I might have to junk, it was in such bad shape.  I let it soak in the Tri-Flow (overnight as I recall), and it loosened everything up so I could disassemble, clean, and re-assemble the bridge almost as good as new.  Someone on this site recommended it to me a couple of years or so ago.  As I recall, they used it for frozen bicycle parts.   I think I still have some, if you want to come by and borrow it, Harry.

Bill, tgo

[keith_h]

I use to use Tri-Flow on my bicycles back when I use to do a lot of cycling but doubt it was me that mentioned it.

[hieronymous]

So I finally made it to my friend's house and he helped me with my instruments - his cat Jackson helped:



He inspected the final result too:



Still the old strings, fretboard needs oiling, and Jackson let it slide that the bridge didn't get cleaned. Also - the sticking screw wasn't sticking in the body of the bass, the nut was on a little too tight. Hope to get the strings changed soon!

[gtrguy]

you are lucky he didn't move into the bass case, mine would!

[hieronymous]

Oh that happened too!

[pauldo]

Ha!
Our Simon (RIP), loved an empty bass case also.
Ironically enough he was also a red tabby, although he acted a lot like a dog. 

[bigredbass]

Somewhere in the bowels of the Alembic Club, this info is floating around, but I'll repeat my 'Hints from Heloise' cleaning tips:

As mentioned in a preceding post of mine above, BreakFree CLP is the stuff for things you want lubed but not sticky, oily, or tacky afterwards.  Harmless to finishes and electronics, a little goes a long way, and unless you're playing in a metal band 6 nights a week in very messy environments, it may never need any again . . . . . BreakFree also seems to 'sweatproof' things a bit, not a bad thing.

As far as the non-clear-coated brass (usually everything except the s/n plates and tailpieces), you can obviously used ultrafine steelwool (and this is better with it off the bass) on the bridge.  I've also used car wax (and make SURE it's wax and not 'polish' or 'wax polish' as that has very fine grit in it to cut slightly), or if you score a badly neglected, all-green-crust older brass, Eagle One Wadding Polish is the court of last resort, it will really eat that stuff.  I've never been a Brasso guy I'm afraid . . . .

I prefer the car wax as it really brings the brass to a mirror finish after the steelwool, if you like that look on the bridge and adjustable nut.  Car wax is also great for getting fingerprints out of the tuning key buttons.  And remember, don't even think of using any of the brass polishing stuff on plated items like the keys:  You'll go from gold to chrome keys THAT fast, DON'T do it.  I prefer Meguiar's for waxes, etc.  And another reminder:  Be sure you get straight wax, not 'wax polish' or any similar product that has any grit whatsoever for very fine cutting a car finish that barely needs serious detailing:  This will leave marks.

So how do you keep the brass looking new, if that's what you want?  Buy a tube of Alberto VO5, the old-school hair dressing in a toothpaste tube.  Ease just the thinnest coat over the bits (and you can use this on the keys as well, it's harmless), and this stuff will keep it shiny for a long time.


If you have a gloss finished axe, again, I prefer Meguiar's, and use their 'Ultimate Quick Detailer' and 'Ultimate Quick Wax' (both in tall, Windex squeeze spray handle bottles), from Auto Zone, WM, wherever.  The Detailer cleans, and the Wax makes 'em shine my-T-fine, unless you can score some the Alembic Supreme Polish.


And of course, to honor their heritage, a final step:  Drop a drop of patchouli oil in an out-of-the-way corner inside the case.  Somehow, it just seems appropriate, and the Police aren't interested . . . . . .

And a been there /  done that tip:  Be smarter than I was.  I took the bridge COMPLETELY apart to clean/lube/adjust everything, and I re-installed it . . . . . . BACKWARDS, which I didn't realize until after it was re-strung.  Duh-Oh!!!  So take a few cellphone pics as insurance if you do this, and this will give you an approximate location for each saddle so re-synching your harmonics won't take near as long.


Life is Good ! 

[lbpesq]

A big +1 on the VO5.  Not only does it work, but for me the smell elicits memories of long ago when my mom used the stuff.  But PLEASE keep the patchouli away!  My older brother smeared himself with the stuff back in 1970 or '71 just before heading down to Whitehall Street, (the place in "Alice's Restaurant"), for his draft physical.  Our house stunk of patchouli for weeks! 

And thanks again, Joey, for another of your brilliantly instructive posts.

Moder Dave, et al., perhaps this is one for the "Must Reads" section?

Bill, tgo

[gtrguy]

If you get the brass absolutely clean, you can spray lacquer on it, like a brass horn has. However, it has to be so clean that there is not so much as a fingerprint on it. It might not be a good idea to get any on screws and screw holes etc as it may interfere with the clearance needed to work.