Volume pot

[David Houck]

I played a show last night with the '84 Spoiler I recently acquired.  The bass sounded great and played wonderfully, but I had one unanticipated problem.  Unlike my other Alembics this bass has the older Hat style knobs.  From time to time I would accidentally hit the volume knob with my right hand turning the output down considerably.  I did notice from the moment I first picked up the bass that the volume knob turned very easily, perhaps too easily.  (Of course on the upside this ease of turning should lend itself to easier volume swells.)  Is this normal for volume pots from this era or is the pot just worn out?

[dnburgess]

On the subject of low friction knobs...
 
the knobs on my SF2 also turn very easily.
 
Apart from the ease of accidentally changing settings, the absence of tactile feedback feels cheap - regardlesss of how good the pots might be electronicly. Are all SF2 knobs like this? Is there any chance of changing to better feeling knobs?

[David Houck]

Thanks David, you said it better than I; low friction knobs, absence of tactile feedback.

[mica]

Davehouck-  
 
The older pots lack a wave washer internally that not only increases the friction, but also allows the use of metal knobs. For the instruments, this was changed in about 1989. You can replace the pot with a new one, but you'll also need to enlarge the mounting hole - the pots you have is likely the original 1/8 shaft and the new ones are 1/4. You'll also need a new knob.
 
As a cheesy quick fix, you can lower the knob so that the bottom of it rides on the top of the finish, creating some friction.  
 
Does the filter pot have more torque?
 
Dnburgess-
 
Do you find it's all the knobs turn equally easy or is there some variance? Some of the pots on the SF-2 are identical to pots we use on basses while others are spcific to the Superfilter.
 
Changing the knobs won't have any effect - the torque comes from the mechanics of the pots themselves. (BTW- the knobs are very nice Swiss-made collet knobs, so don't go trying to pull them off.)  
 
We recently had a visit from an engineer from  Clarostat to discuss among other things, getting consistant torque on the pots. Of course, volume pots are one section and naturally have less resistance than the double filter controls.

[dnburgess]

Mica, from memory all my SF2 knobs are equally floppy - but I will check and revert. They have much less friction than I've felt on any Alembic basses.
 
Another SF2 user here has made a similar comment to me - he thought he had dodgy pots and was all ready to order replacements and switch them until he heard I had the same concern.

[dela217]

Everyone - I too have a cheezy fix.  On my 1981 Series II I have the same sort of problem with it's master volume pot.  The other pots on the bass are fine.  What I did was use a small felt washer or pad under the knob and between the finish.  This way I was able to get the feel I wanted with the knob and not mess up the finish. A cheap but effective fix..Michael

[David Houck]

Thanks Mica; if and when I send the Spoiler to Santa Rosa for mods I'll consider replacing the pots.  And no, the filter pot does not seem to have any more torque.  Rather than lowering the knob to ride on the finish I'm thinking of maybe something like a felt washer between the knob and the finish.  What do you think?
 
Hah!  I just read Michael's post; looks like the felt idea worked for him.

[bob]

Mica, on my SF-2 (slightly over a year old), I believe I can feel a slight difference between the direct/filter gain controls, and the Freq/Q controls - the latter being just a wee bit stiffer.  
 
i checked to be sure none were rubbing against the case. One of the filter gains seems a little more resistent than the other gains, but I won't swear to that. Overall, they all feel too loose to me, and it's very easy to bump an adjacent one and really mess things up (I just did, and am not sure I wrote down my most recent settings...).  
 
I don't feel enough difference between the gains and filter controls to matter (but think there is a little) - I'd like them all to be stiffer, and might try the felt pad trick.  
 
As you know, I can't yet speak to the instrument controls, but that will be soon :-)  
 
The knobs themselves are a beautiful piece of craftsmanship, and I'd sort of like to have a spare one around just to look at, and show to people. But frankly, they are a real bitch to take on and off. My fingernails are too thick to pry off the cap (need to use a piece of Mylar or something); then you almost need to use some sort of spacer beneath the knob when you're trying to put it on; and getting the line on the knob aligned with the end of the range is also really tricky, while trying to keep it there as you tighten the screw.  
 
Again, I really love these knobs, but there must be some tricks to putting them on properly, which would be good to share. Though there's not much reason to do that on an SF-2, I will be tempted to remove them for oiling the body of my instrument, and right now I figure I'll blow a good 20 minutes or so getting them back on and properly aligned each time.
 
I definitely agree with the general feeling here that (at least on the SF-2) they all turn way too easily.
 
(Message edited by bob on December 14, 2003)

[palembic]

About the same situation for me: the knobs of my SF-2 are turming too easily. I'll try the felt trick later. The changing of the Collet-knob on Bonnie once to fasten a pot, went well but Brother Bob, I have smaller fingers. LOL
For the SF-2 I suppose I would lay Tweak Peaks on his back so the knobs are pointing upwards. I gives more handling comfort.
 
Paul the bad one

[David Houck]

I had not focused on that before; but on my F-1X (an older blackface model) the knobs have a very nice level of resistance to turning while on my SF-2 they turn too easily.