String Length for new strings

[nemesis]

Hello,
I have a really dumb question for the group. I am getting ready to change out strings on my short scale Series, 4 string bass. It was at the "Mothership" a while back and they, along with a whole bunch of other stuff, put on new strings, and its time for them to be changed. My question is this. Is there a rule of , or good practice for how long to cut each string beyond the center of the tuning post that works best for number of wraps etc.?

Thanks,
Nemesis Jon

[tubeperson]

My tech told me to cut the string so that there are 4 inches beyond  the nut to wrap around and then insert into the tuning peg.

[hieronymous]

I don't think it's a dumb question at all - I've been changing strings for over thirty years and still have issues!


I have a short scale Stanley Clarke bass and use long scale strings for it, though the low B should probably have a medium or short scale string. I personally leave three inches for all the strings except the E, where I try and do about 2 inches, but don't go too short!


It depends on the string too - how quickly it starts to taper, and also the width of the tuning peg. Ultimately it takes experimentation and practice, but bass strings are so dang expensive!

[David Houck]

My recollection is that you want 3 wraps around the peg, and that 4 finger widths (3 inches) past the peg should be about right.

Use needle nose pliers to bend the sting to a 90 degree angle; this bend helps preserve the integrity of the string.  Leave about 1/4" past the bend before making the cut.  The bend helps preserve the integrity of the string, and is stuck into the hole in the peg as an anchor before you begin tightening.

You might want to wait for other comments from our members, as it's been quite a while since I last put on new strings, and my memory isn't reliable. 

[growlypants]

Yea, hieronymous is correct.  ("It depends on the string too..."). And, as Dave says, be sure to make that 90 degree bend BEFORE you cut the string to length.  You'll learn with experience, but bass strings can be expensive.  I make my 90 degree bend 2 or 3 inches past the appropriate tuning peg, cut the string, insert it into the peg, hand-bend around the peg 1/2 turn, insert into the tail-piece, and start a-crankin!

[edwardofhuncote]

One other hint I'll pass on... something I picked up from re-stringing upright basses; if the strings have silks, after you cut them, singe the cut ends and dip them briefly in candle wax. 

[pauldo]

Good question, I also have not changed strings in a long time (and the bass still sounds great).  Generally I have been waiting until I have tuning issues which indicates the string(s) are nearing their end of life.

I have a HipShot D-tuner on my E string, the shaft is shorter so it will only accept ~2 wraps.  I use the distance between the tuners as a gauge (which is about three finger widths). I bend the string 90 degrees down/ towards the back of the headstock and then cut it about 1" beyond the bend. This goes straight into the tuner shaft (hole down the middle and then I wind the tuner feeding the string wraps from the top to the bottom of the tuner shaft.  The idea is to have the string feed off the tuner as low as possible to insure a good seating in the nut.  I also avoid any double wrapping of the string (string over string wrapping) on the tuner.


Edit, after thought. When starting the winding on the tuner I pinch the string with one hand while turning the tuner with the other to keep tension on it to create as tight a wrap as possible on the initial winding.

[nemesis]

Thank you all for the good advice! For reference I'm using Alembic CX-3/45S strings. Its funny, waaaaaay back I used to do this sort of thing and other minor guitar/fret work, so no big deal, just a bass, right.......?  But since this bass has been refinished and reeeeeeally made nice at the factory, I get fidgety messing with it, its just such nice instrument. I guess the good news is that it is a graphite neck, so don't get to mess with the setup much other than bridge height adjustments. Again, THANKS for the thoughts and guidance, didn't want to cut a string to short, or to long for that matter.......
Jon

[David Houck]

To add a couple other points to this thread for posterity:

Some folks will use the occasion of string changing to oil their fingerboard, hereabouts the favorite being pure lemon oil.

And depending on how often one changes strings, some folks use the occasion to also change batteries.

[nemesis]

Great idea David! Thanks again and keep those great ideas coming! Hmmm... was trying to think of where to find pure lemon oil. Any ideas?

[hieronymous]

I'm sure someone else will chime in on the lemon oil, but I wanted to ask about this:

I guess the good news is that it is a graphite neck, so don't get to mess with the setup much other than bridge height adjustments.

Are there pictures of your bass in the showcase? Sounds really interesting!!!

[adriaan]

Well, on a carbon neck, wouldn't the fretboard be carbon too, or phenolic? I doubt a dab of lemon oil would do any good then.

[growlypants]

Dave's right.  I may need to oil the fingerboard when I change strings  - pure lemon oil is available at any health food store - but adriaan brings up a good point, too.  Other than a nice smell, it wouldn't provide much else on a graphite board!!

[nemesis]

Sorry, I guess I lead you all wrong. The neck is graphite, but it has an ebony finger board. So the Lemon oil would do just fine.

Off topic a bit. David, funny, I played with a guy named David Houk in Albuquerque, many moons ago. I suspect you are not the same David Houk.

I have not posted any pics of this bass, but will, It's a looker, and well a playa....

As I remember, Mica said there were less than 50 graphite neck basses made. This is a 1979, original owner, with Coco Bolo top and back. I know I know, it doesn't exist if there are no pictures.....

Jon

[David Houck]

I lived in Flagstaff for a few months a long time ago, but not Albuquerque; so no, it wasn't me.