Head Heavy

[nemesis]

Hello,
I have an AWESOME Series 1 short scale 4 string with a graphite neck. I am wondering if anyone out there in Alembic land has any helps for a head heavy bass? I have had this since new in 1979. It recently came back from the mothership for a complete restoration/refinish, and should have asked Mica, when it was there. But, NOOOOO! I had to wait until it got back. It has always been this way as I remember, but it wasn't really a problem. But now just wondering if anyone out there has any ideas. One other question, I think I know the answer to this. Be'in as though it is a graphite neck, no doubt it is sans truss rods. Just wanting to work on the relief etc, a bit, but prolly out of luck on that. Any thoughts? In the process of getting away from the 70's Sunn monster stuff, I got a F-2B, and a QSC power amp. Now just the cabinet/s remain to be replaced. It all sounds OUTSTANDING!
Thanks for the advice on that!
"Nemesis" Jon

[8 String King]

OKAY that's pretty annoying.  Long detailed post just gone...


TRY MOODY straps -if they're still around.

[keith_h]

I play small body, short scale Alembics. I use wide leather straps that are suede on the backside to help keep the head somewhat above its natural neck position of 3 o'clockish. It also helps to play it up higher on the chest and tucking the body under your arm.

[pauldo]

A wider strap is a good option.
You could also try relocating the rear strap button a few inches higher than the centerline - I did on a Distillate and it helped.
Pictures can be seen here. Hard to see on the first picture but if you scroll down a bit there is a bottom shot.


Another option is a member (richbass939) here designed a fabulous harness system. The bass attaches to the harness and is held in a neutral position without neck dive, as an added bonus the weight is transferred to your hips.

[nemesis]

Hello All,
Thanks for the GREAT input on the head heavy. I'll check out all the suggestions. When I saw the option of moving the strap button, it seems as I remember seeing a post some time back about the strap button on the neck end, being moved toward the head an inch or so also. Having done composites stuff all my life, drilling into the graphite neck should be just another walk in the park......, Riiiiight!  I like the thoughts of the wide strap, and the harness one is also very interesting. Since I am just getting back to playing this bass after the restoration I'm a bit reluctant to start drilling holes in it. Mica, scared me a bit on that subject when she said there were only 50 of these things made, making even more scary to start drilling holes....Thanks to all of you for the input, this is a GREAT site for great info.
Jon

[jazzyvee]

I have read somewhere on line that a bassist with a neck heavy bass put a plastic bag with fishing weights inside the control cavity to counter balance the neck dive.

[dela217]

Please don't drill a hole in anything!

I too have one of these short scale graphite neck basses.   I think the right move is to find the perfect strap.  Also incorporate your right forearm into resting on the body to hold it in place.   It works for me and I have been playing these short scale basses for 39 years.

I think you should post a picture of that beauty.

Michael

[mica]

Listen to Michael - he even plays medium scale basses with that same body shape.

Counterweights need to be REALLY heavy to be of much help. If there's an ultralight tuner that will retrofit nicely, that would help more than added weight on the other end.

[mavnet]

I've got two of very few long neck, small body basses that Alembic ever made*. Talk about head/neck heavy. Susan and Mica said they decided not to make any more in that configuration because of the head dive problem, but i guess I didn't know any better - a really wide strap and adapting my playing to include arm resting on body have gotten me through 39 years with them - you get used to it.


*well, i have only one of them at home. the other's been back at Alembic for the last year and a half getting what started off as a quick refin and electronics upgrade, which turned into finding and fixing the mysterious crack, and while it was there we might as well, oh, i dunno, completely redesign the electronics and replace some hardware... hopefully i'll see it soon. I miss it.

[nemesis]

Michael, and Mica,

Absolutely WON'T be drilling any holes in this treasure! I have some tungsten that I used for counterbalance on control surfaces of my airplane in the avatar. Perhaps may try that, for counterweight for the heck of it, it'll only make it weigh more...But a wider strap and using the right forearm are the hot tickets.

Mica, did you see the other stuff in the OP? I really have fallen back in love with this bass, after it having rested for over 25 years.... The sound is amazing.

Nemesis Jon

[tmimichael]

Jon,
Try the Moody strap! They're pricey but the best out there. I have 2 of them, and I'm about to order my 3rd one.
It should make a difference with your balance issue (use the 4" one) AND be the most comfortable strap you'll find.

Michael

[mica]

There's no way to adjust the neck on the graphite neck basses and guitars, they are where they are. You can adjust the bridge height.

[nemesis]

Thank you Mica! You guys did an AWESOME job on this!!! Thank you. I need to put up a picture.
Jon

[nemesis]

Michael,

Regarding the Moody straps. What back do you like the best? Then, knowing what the result I'm trying to achieve, what do you think would work the best? The "suede", or the "leather" back?
Thank you,
Jon

[StephenR]

I have a 4" Moody strap with suede backing and use it for an older Series bass with a small body. If you are trying to prevent neck dive IMO you should get the suede back. The ones with a smooth leather back will slide around on your shoulder. They Moody straps are superb and extremely comfortable, I don't think you will be disappointed.

Looking forward to seeing some pictures of your bass. I believe the only graphite neck Alembic I have seen previously is one that was in an old catalog.