Some new owner questions...

[xlrogue6]

If you're using a Hartke, I highly recommend upgrading the passive components in the tube preamp--better caps and resistors really improve the warmth, clarity, and definition.  I've done a couple of these lately and they kinda made me nostalgic for my old 7000, possibly because it accomplished in 2 rack spaces what I'm now doing in 4.  Of course, my new rig sounds better, but I have to wonder if anyone but me (or one of you guys!) could tell the difference.

[son_of_magni]

Well Rogue, since my stereo is two 150 watt mono blocks into Ohm F's, with an AVA Dynakit front end (not to mention the Ah Tjoeb CD player), I guess I better be able to hear the difference :-) What manufacturer and type of R's and C's would you recommend?

[xlrogue6]

Mallory 150's(or any other high quality tubular) for the non-electrolytic caps, since clearances are tight on the board.  Orange drops will fit in some locations if you're partial to them.  For resistors, I like 1/2 watt NTE 2% metal films, although some would argue for carbon comp in the signal path. Also bear in mind that the RC network between the output of IC101A and the second half of the 12AX7 is a Fender(or F1X/F2B, if you prefer) tone stack with fixed resistors instead of pots, so if you want to tweak the tone of the tube pre you can play with part values here.
 
Kent