Author Topic: Help, My Bridge is Frozen! (And it's not getting any warmer!) (Read 630 times)

lbpesq · « **on:** December 27, 2009, 04:47:53 PM »

So I'm was watching the 49ers this afternoon and starting on the clean-up/restoration of the fretless Epic 5 I just picked up. Boy is this thing filthy! It took almost two hours with a Dremel and Flitz just to get the tailpiece polished. When I next tried to remove the bridge, I discovered it is a frozen mass of filthy brass! So, can someone please provide me with the exact size of the hex wrench to remove the bridge from a '95 Epic? And any suggestions on unfreezing this bridge? Standard hardware store stuff for frozen bolts? It's great to have everyone here to turn to for advice like this.

Bill, tgo

bassfingers · « **Reply #1 on:** December 27, 2009, 05:08:07 PM »

If a WD40 type spray won't shift it I'd suggest a can of auto brake cleaner.It's helped me out when the aforementioned 'water displacement' product hasn't worked.Obviously the bass itself should be covered/protected but you knew that already didn't you ;O)

pauldo · « **Reply #2 on:** December 27, 2009, 05:33:08 PM »

Bill,
My 84 Distillate uses a 5/64ths size hex wrench for removal - not sure if that is the same as your Epic.

If by frozen you mean screws are locked up for moving the saddles back and forth (towards head stock and away from headstock). There are more agressive alternatives than WD40 - however I would NOT use these while the bridge is still attached to the bass, they may have a real ugly interaction with your instruments finish.

PB Blaster is an effective penetrant - but for those absolutely, positively, not gonna move items Kano Kroil is a never fail spray.

I know this stuff works because I live in Wisconsin (it is sick how much salt they use on the roads) and own a jeep wrangler, both add up to more rust than a tin can full of nails in the bottom of a bucket full of saltwater. . . good luck -

mario_farufyno · « **Reply #3 on:** December 27, 2009, 06:00:38 PM »

I thought it was snowing in California...

peoplechipper · « **Reply #4 on:** December 27, 2009, 10:03:34 PM »

Try a product called triflow, used for bicycles...when I was a bike mechanic we called it a wonder drug, and it is...a light oil with teflon that will free up almost anything(I have absorbed so much into my skin over the year I will never have arthritis, at least in my hands...) the stuff works wonders! (I don't work for them) Tony

paulman · « **Reply #5 on:** December 28, 2009, 07:08:06 AM »

I used a hammer and chisel to get the electronics out of my Further, maybe that could work for you.

bigredbass · « **Reply #6 on:** December 28, 2009, 08:41:47 AM »

IF all else fails:

And this is ONLY with the bridge OFF the bass and well away from the instrument, you may be able to find in auto parts stores where you live an aerosol product called PB Blaster.

I'd use this as a last resort if the TriFlow, WD, etc., doesn't work. Spray the threaded bits with this stuff and let it sit overnight. It WILL come loose. But this stuff WILL screw up your finish, electronics, etc., and when you're through, you'd need to wipe it off thoroughly and relube with something like BreakFree CLP (which I'd also try before the Blaster) which is inert to paint and electronics and will coat the parts where this will never happen again.

BreakFree CLP is fine for use with the hardware still on the instrument, no worries. I use it for the bridge and the nut screws, I even wipe the nut slots with it as a lube. Sold in some WalMarts and most gun stores. It's one of these displacing wonder lubes that really sweatproofs most of those tiny bridge parts: It's the ultimate beer-proofer for Floyds and other assorted wiggle-sticks on guitars.

IF it comes down to PB Blaster, DO NOT leave any of it on any parts that will contact finish or wood or electronics.

J o e y

bracheen · « **Reply #7 on:** December 28, 2009, 11:32:08 AM »

I'd just order a new bridge.

gtrguy · « **Reply #8 on:** December 29, 2009, 01:34:51 PM »

Take photos first!

Take the bridge off the instrument, then immerse it in some kind of cleaner for a day or two. There are many products out there. Carb cleaners also should work. Just be sure to clean all the chemicals off afterwards to neutralize them. Some require you to wear gloves. Go after it with a old toothbrush while soaking.

When disassembling the bridge, bear in mind that sometimes the shiny saddle pins can be bent. If so, Mica can get new ones to you. They only press out one way (note which). I have had good luck tapping them out with a very small flat-ended punch. Brasso and 00000 steel wool and elbow grease work on the brass parts. Check the string grooves.

It will look new when you are done. Just be sure the saddles move freely when it's back in one piece.

Dave

richbass939 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 30, 2009, 06:05:39 AM »

Not sure if this will work for your bridge, but here goes.
We, at the Colorado DOT, have lots of bridges and they tend to freeze up much of the time this part of the year. We find that liquid de-icers work the best. Magnesium chloride is the most common one right now. Spray it on nice and thick and in no time you're back in business. Mag chloride is just expensive salt water. Pretty harmless to the body. (Our executive director drank a glass of it in front of the state legislature a few years ago. It won't kill you but I still don't recommend it.) So, try regular sodium chloride and if that doesn't work I can probably scare up a quart of mag for you.
Good luck with that bridge.
Rich

sonicus · « **Reply #10 on:** December 30, 2009, 08:38:01 AM »

NOW ! here is where I think that WD40 is appropriate. Take the entire bridge assembly off the instrument and completely immerse it in WD40 for 24-hours. Clean and shine as need. That might prove effective.

Please be careful with that sodium chloride (NaCl) .Used incorrectly it will raise your blood pressure !

lbpesq · « **Reply #11 on:** December 30, 2009, 10:39:36 AM »

The bridge is off! I had to take it apart in pieces to get it off the bass. It's currently soaking in TriFlow. I think the allen screws will never loosen up. I hope Alembic sells bridge parts.

Bill, tgo

sonicus · « **Reply #12 on:** December 30, 2009, 10:50:16 AM »

Bill, Here is what I would do__________.
Call Alembic and purchase an entire new bridge!
Keep this old original bridge as a spare.

You will love the new bridge and the results .
Wolf_

Happy New Year!!!!!!!!!

peoplechipper · « **Reply #13 on:** December 31, 2009, 08:08:12 PM »

TriFlow is amazing stuff; It really does perform miracles(in 12 years of bicycle mechanics I've seen a lot...) and it's never failed me...I should be a pitch man for them,but they likely have lots...Honestly, if TriFlow won't work, burn it! Tony

terryc · « **Reply #14 on:** January 01, 2010, 02:23:38 PM »

Having read all your great suggestions, a guitar bridge doesn't come under as much stress and water incursion as a bolt on a car or motorcycle.
Soaking the bridge in releasing fluid may loosen it off but gentle heat maybe required, place the component in a hot oven and quench in water, this will cause any corrosion on the threads to free from the metal surface.
Theads can be restored by either using a thread file or die(available from tool shops) or find a nut that is the same thread, and I mean the same thread..pitch, number of threads etc and gently wind it onto the bolt 1/4 to 1/2 turn at at time and backing it off to clean out the thread in addition using oil to lubricate as it turns.
A jeweller may let you place it in his sonic bath which also help to loosen the corrosion.
On assembly I would apply a light machine oil to prevent it happening again.
The bridge on my MK 93 was in a not to similar state but I used my mechanics skills to bring it back to glory without additional expense.