Nut and saddle groove depth for gauge changes

[pauldo]

I didn't want to hi-jack a different thread (Will maybe you have more answers).
 
If someone wanted to switch to a heavier gauge string setup for dropped tuning.
Like:.130 (B) - .095 (E) - .070 (A) - .055 (D)
or even:.145 (A) - .105 (D) - .080 (G) - .060 (C)  
 
What type of modification (if any) would be required for the string slots on the nut and bridge?
 
If the slots are opened up in a v-notch style would this allow for going back to a thinner string?
 
tia

[JimmyJ]

Hey Paul,
 
Great subject, I look forward to the replies.
 
Since enlarging the string slots in the nut and bridge are a one-way deal you will certainly want to experiment with the different gauges before you bust out the files and commit.  To do this you can just throw on the larger gauges and see which combination works best for you.  If necessary you can temporarily lower the nut and bridge and adjust the truss rod to make it feel right even if the slots are not a perfect match.
 
If the consensus here is that V slots work fine then that makes things simpler.  But my opinion (with no scientific evidence whatsoever to back me up) is that you ultimately want these slots to be round and 1/2 of the string's diameter.  And for the nut, you want the bottom of the slot to be roughly the height of a fret above the fingerboard, as in a zero fret.  Others here may have differing opinions, this is just my personal approach.
 
In my many years of playing the series 5-string I've only changed gauges once (a few years ago) and that was to go for a larger low-b.  So at that moment I decided to tweak the slots by investing in a set of nut files and even making a file by mounting part of the actual string on a block of wood.
 
Test out some sets and see if they speak to you.  Then you can fine tune the bass to make your choice fit perfectly.  If you make the mods and then want to go back you can always buy a new nut from Alembic and start fresh
 
Jimmy J

[keith_h]

Filing nut slots, making your own jigs, fixing  DS5 power chords all while making a living in music. Your a real jack of all trades Jimmy. :-)  
 
Keith

[JimmyJ]

Hey, there's a lot of downtime in the music business. ha!

[811952]

On my series bass, I went from EADG to BEAD without permanently changing a thing.  I was able to just lower the bridge and the nut and everything worked out perfectly, using the bottom 4 of a Rotosound 5 set.  I only changed it back because the B was weak (long scale with a tiny neck).
 
You might give it a look-see.
 
See you at the next Chicago get-together!
 
John

[mario_farufyno]

Can't say about the B String, but I moved from an E .090 to a .106 without any trouble regarding nut and bridge slots but changing Truss Rod and Sadlle adjustments just for the proper Neck reflief and intonation.

[bigredbass]

I'd DEFINITELY string it up with whatever you're thinking of using with your guitar 'as is'.  It's a one-way trip as Jimmy said, you can always perform surgery later once you're sure it's what you want.
 
You could always take the slotted top half of the nut off and save it, get a new blank from Alembic and cut it for your new sizes.
 
I would NOT want to use 'V' slots.  The prevailing wisdom has always been to use the round slots, 1/2 the depth of the string diameter.  Amazingly, lots of basses are cut that way for the big strings, yet the D/G/C strings are submerged in way deeper slots.  Especially for slap guys, I could see the strings jumping out of the V slots.
 
J o e y

[elwoodblue]

You could always take the slotted top half of the nut off and save it, get a new blank from Alembic and cut it for your new sizes.  
 
 That's brilliant...an added benefit of what was already the pinnacle of nut design.  
 
   Reversible and easy ...good suggestion Joey