Author Topic: Need advice on strings (Read 193 times)

benson_murrensun · « **on:** March 12, 2009, 01:37:12 PM »

Hi all,

I am having a problem setting up my Ritter Classic bass: I am using non-taper wound strings (GHS Brite Flats). I put them on the bass and I can't get the action low enough. The neck is adjusted to almost flat, the saddles are as low as I can get them. I don't think the neck has a tilt adjustment. It seems that the bass was set up for taper-wound strings or exposed-core strings. But I have only seen those in the round-wound variety, and I make too much finger noise! So I need semi-flats or similar. Anybody know of any ground-wound or pressure-wound strings that are taper-wound as well?

mica · « **Reply #1 on:** March 12, 2009, 03:06:48 PM »

Can you enlarge the slot in the saddle to accommodate the larger diameter string?

benson_murrensun · « **Reply #2 on:** March 12, 2009, 03:13:54 PM »

Thanks for the reply, Mica. That was my original thought, although I have never done that type of thing myself. Another thought I had was to remove some material from the bottom of the saddles, so they would sit lower in the bridge assembly. I just spoke to a guy at Bass Northwest who said that I should remove the neck and put some card stock in it as a shim in order to tilt the neck slightly.

bsee · « **Reply #3 on:** March 12, 2009, 07:19:18 PM »

Based on what you're saying, you should only be having a problem with the E, and B if it's a five, string(s). Usually, the taper wound or exposed core sets are normal strings for the thinner ones anyway. Is that correct?

Card stock sounds like a bad idea to me. If you're going to shim, use something solid like a piece of hardwood or a metal plate. If the card stock compresses or deteriorates over time, your neck joint will loosen up.

What did Ritter have to say when you asked them what to do?

dnburgess · « **Reply #4 on:** March 13, 2009, 02:16:52 AM »

I forwarded your problem onto Jens Ritter. His response: Could you please email this guy that he shoult contact me? I seems like he has the wrong inlays for the saddles.

His email address is jens.ritter@ritter-basses.com

benson_murrensun · « **Reply #5 on:** March 13, 2009, 09:05:05 AM »

Thank you, David. I have already been in contact with Mr. Ritter, and he asked me for photos of the bridge. I sent those to him over 3 weeks ago and haven't heard anything since then. I will try again, though.
I don't like the idea of card stock, either. It seems like it would compromise the mating of the neck and the body. This bass' neck has a 7-bolt mounting system.
Bob - the problem is with all the stings - they're just too high. I like the action fairly low, and this instrument is barely playable for me the way it is now. No problems with fret buzz, however!
I will contact Mr. Ritter again; right now I am leaning towards having my luthier enlarge the slots in the saddles.
Thank you, all!

benson_murrensun · « **Reply #6 on:** March 13, 2009, 09:35:59 AM »

Update: I am back in contact with Mr. Ritter. He wants better photos... can't say as I blame him - my photography skills are a little lacking.

hieronymous · « **Reply #7 on:** March 13, 2009, 09:37:46 AM »

In order to get close up shots, you might have to put your camera in macro mode - some cameras have a setting with a flower (and a mountain) - this allows you to take in-focus close-up shots. (If that is your problem)

Oh, and good luck! I've been watching this thread - I hope you can work it out with Mr. Ritter!

benson_murrensun · « **Reply #8 on:** March 13, 2009, 09:56:10 AM »

Thanks for the camera, tip, Harry. I just looked at the Kodak web site and found out how to use the close-up mode. Research - what a concept!

jazzyvee · « **Reply #9 on:** March 13, 2009, 10:21:48 AM »

Hi, I'd be interested in a couple of sound samples of the Ritter bass of thats possible at some point. I've been very curious about them. I love their look and the build quality looks great.
Hope you get to the root of your issue.
Jazzyvee

benson_murrensun · « **Reply #10 on:** March 13, 2009, 12:32:03 PM »

Well, I have a gig tonight... If you wanted to make your way to Golden, CO. USA you could hear it live! But seriously I will try to make a decent recording one of these days and get it out there. The Ritter, although it does have some Suess-like visuals, may be the most ergonomically comfy bass I have ever used. It balances perfectly with a strap, which is pretty good for a 5-string.

benson_murrensun · « **Reply #11 on:** March 14, 2009, 05:32:34 PM »

Another update: Mr. Ritter examined the latest photo I sent and said that I have saddles that are too high (I guess I knew that...); he is going to send me lower ones (good customer service!).

georgie_boy · « **Reply #12 on:** March 15, 2009, 06:39:14 AM »

To hear Ritter basses, go to the Ritter site.
There is a section there with Ritters on Myspace.
Listen to that!!!
I'm WELL impressed!!

georgie_boy · « **Reply #13 on:** March 15, 2009, 06:44:28 AM »

Meant to say
Listen to SPACE OPERA, and the Theme for the Simpsons.
Beautiful tones....IMO

benson_murrensun · « **Reply #14 on:** March 24, 2009, 03:35:23 PM »

Yet another update:
Jens Ritter sent me a set of lower bridge saddles. But they weren't high enough above the rest of the bridge assemblies to allow the strings to clear the bridges on their way to their anchor points, on the A,D, and G strings. I don't like when the strings touch the bridge behind the saddle. I don't know if it's really a problem, but it just seems like they shouldn't touch there. The old, taller saddles worked for the A and D strings with the bridges in their lowest position, so I put them back. (The string height at the 12th fret is now 6/64ths of an inch for each string, which is acceptable to me.) But the remaining problem is the G string, which passes throught the slot on the saddle and lays flat on the rest of the bridge assembly until it breaks for the anchor point. I think I will turn the saddle over and cut a shallower slot in it and see if that works.