Author Topic: Cleaned up nice... (Read 290 times)

neurotictim · « **on:** January 17, 2008, 03:37:03 PM »

So, as I've said in previous posts, I spent a bunch of time yesterday cleaning my new (to me) Epic, which spent the last couple of years in storage. Check this out:

The neck had all these salt deposits on it from not getting the tender care Alembics deserve, so I settled in with some elbow grease and a couple of helpers...

My neighbor (who is also a bass player) suggested picking up the Watco stuff and a toothbrush for heavy-duty, non-destructive cleaning. Best advice ever, so far, on cleaning stuff. Good for the wood, good for cleaning at the same time. The toothbrush got a lot of use, but in the end:

This pic is not quite the same angle, but you can tell how remarkable the difference is. In fairness, the camera brought out the worst in the first pic, but a little elbow grease, a toothbrush, and the rejuvenating oil (with a rub in the Dr. Stringfellow lemon treatment, which I've used for years, afterwards) makes this fretboard look brand new. BTW, the pic was taken after I gave the fretboard time to dry... That's how it looks now.

bassjigga · « **Reply #1 on:** January 17, 2008, 03:49:39 PM »

Wow what a difference!

neurotictim · « **Reply #2 on:** January 17, 2008, 03:50:00 PM »

Yeah, one more pic. Someone here suggested I take pics of the bridge, to help with re-assembly. Thank you very much, I wouldn't have thought of it, and it was helpful indeed.

(I tried searching for the post, I don't remember who said it, but anyway...)

A little Brasso, another toothbrush, and here's what it looked like all taken apart on my coffee table:

Fairly complicated, and even with the pictures I managed to put the saddles on backwards... then took them off, went outside to smoke, and came back in and put the right back on... backwards!

I did eventually get it right, though, and now she's preeetttty.

(BTW, those aren't dings on the side, near the top horn and up near the toothbrush - they're dots from the Brasso that came flying off of the toothbrush - and they wiped right off.)

tbrannon · « **Reply #3 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:05:07 PM »

Tim,

It was me that suggested you use the digital camera- it wasn't my own revelation... somebody else here gave me the tip when I got my bass. I was very happy they suggested it once I had all those little pieces laying on the table!

Looks like you did a bang up job on the fretboard. Post some more pictures once you have it all back together~

Toby

neurotictim · « **Reply #4 on:** January 17, 2008, 06:09:22 PM »

Yep, I'm happy. I'm glad you passed that little tidbit along, thanks.

I'll wait for the neck to settle, put the truss rod cover back on, and try to get some good shots tomorrow.

funkyjazzjunky · « **Reply #5 on:** January 18, 2008, 09:08:20 AM »

Thank you for the tips

bigredbass · « **Reply #6 on:** January 18, 2008, 06:50:40 PM »

I'll pass along my 'Hints from Heloise' list of chemical sundries to keep around for Bass Cleaning Day:

1) BreakFree CLP. This is under the category of good for guns, good for basses! BF is one of these 'wonder lubes' full of all manner of unpronounceable petroleum distallates, teflon, etc. This is perfect for the saddle screws, any moving parts. It's totally inert as far as finishes, electronics, etc. A little dab and no moving part will ever sweat shut again. This is THE s**t for Floyds. Most proper firearm stores have it, as well as W**-***t.

2) REALLY good car wax (Mother's, Zymol, Meguiar's, etc.) is great, obviously for gloss finish axes. But it's really good for plated parts. Ever get a used axe with gold or chrome keys and you just can't get the fingerprints out of the button on the tuning key? This will. It also polishes the crap out of brass!

3) Alberto VO5, the cream hairdressing in the toothpaste tube. After you polish/wax your plated or brass parts, a very thin film of this (think of the very light coat of gun oil you'd leave on the Beretta or H+K after you clean it) will keep that stuff shiny a LOT longer. It's completely organic and harmless to anything on a bass.

Oh yeah: We ALL put the saddles on backwards the first time! You're really part of The Club now !

J o e y

jake · « **Reply #7 on:** January 27, 2008, 08:16:12 AM »

Alberto V05? that's a new one.

adriaan · « **Reply #8 on:** January 29, 2008, 01:14:16 AM »

Actually, VO5 has been mentioned numerous times on this board. Not sure what it is called in Europe.

jacko · « **Reply #9 on:** January 29, 2008, 05:58:36 AM »

it's called V05 over here too;-)

graeme

pauldo · « **Reply #10 on:** February 02, 2008, 07:12:46 AM »

Does the hardware (bridge, etc) have threaded inserts in the body?

I would love to strip down my distillate but would be afraid of stripping the threads in the body.
Anyone ever strip a Distillate down?

jake · « **Reply #11 on:** February 02, 2008, 11:28:36 AM »

It should be fine unless you overtorque them. They're a lot less likely to strip than wood screws.

neurotictim · « **Reply #12 on:** February 02, 2008, 01:45:13 PM »

Nope, not on mine. I second Jake's opinion, though. Just tighten them up enough, you don't have to wrench on them.

Bradley Young · « **Reply #13 on:** February 03, 2008, 09:59:04 AM »

Paul,

Pretty much everything on an Alembic (notable exception: strap locks) has threaded inserts. I don't know if this goes all the way back, but my '98 Epic certainly has them.

Bradley

dannobasso · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2008, 11:39:48 AM »

My 83 spoiler lacks inserts for the truss rod cover and plate on the back.