Wanting new bass rig

[2400wattman]

Taylor,  
   The high frequency attenuator is for the horn in the middle of the 4x10's which is sort of a level control. It's what gives you that spanky/clacky high end.  
 The two inputs for Full Range are wired parallel and allow you to plug your amp into one input then run a cable to another cabinet from the other input.  
The two inputs for bi-amp splits the 4x10 and 1x15 allowing you to divide the mid-high tones to the 4x10 and low tones to the 1x15 and yes you can run each amp to drive each section of the cab.  
Now, I believe there is something backward in your explanation of which ohm rating is for full range and bi-amp. I could be wrong but I would think that the full range impedance is 4 ohms and the bi-amp is 8 ohms.  
Keep asking questions regardless of how dumb you think they might be as we are all here to help.

[tmoney61092]

Thank Adam that's awesome news to me, I'm in bed now but I'll break out my camera and take a picture of the back of the cab and try to post it on here so everyone can see it and add any info to the subject
 
~Taylor

[serialnumber12]

fancy rigs are fine but playing the bassline is what pays the bills even it means being basic with your rig.....300 watts & two 15's is all i need!

[David Houck]

Taylor sent me the pic for resizing.
 

[2400wattman]

Well well well, I stand corrected on the ohm rating issue. The benefit of the bi amp side is you will get the max wattage of your amp @ 4ohms which is great but, I don't know how they (Ampeg) arrived at 2 4ohm loads making an 8ohm load.  
What the f&$K do I know....I'm just a bass player not a math-a-matician!
Depending on the shape of this cab, as I believe it to be at least 20 years old, I might dump some newer high wattage Eminence drivers in it and make everybody happy

[David Houck]

Adam; do you think when the cab is run in full range mode, that there is a built in crossover between the 10s and 15?  Or would it be sending a full range signal to all of the drivers?

[dfung60]

I don't have any specific knowledge, but from the looks of it, each of the sub-sections of the cab is wired to be 4 ohms, hence the 4 ohm spec in biamp mode.  When you run full range, they put the two sections in series which adds the impedances for 8 ohms.  If they were in parallel, this would be 2 ohms, but that's bad for some solid state gear and impossible for tube amps.
 
When you plug in on the full-range side it's probably passing the full-range signal to both halves of the cab.  Four 10s are a perfectly good bass cabinet, so there's no problem with either half handling the full low end.  The tweeter probably has it's own low-end protection all the time.
 
I also agree with the general consensus here - you should be good with the amp generating much more power than the cabinet is rated for.  You can blow the drivers if you crank it too much, but this is a quality cabinet - you'll know it's not sounding good before things start melting down, so just don't go there.
 
I've got a Marshall 1960 cab which is switchable to running two stereo pairs.  I've never used it that way, but you can plug into one jack and it's 16 ohms mono, a different jack and it's 4 ohms mono, or flip a switch into stereo and each jack is 8 ohms and two speakers.  You flip the output selector on the amp to match.  I try not to be the jackhole though.
 
David Fung

[tmoney61092]

Adam, i have no clue either , i was kind of horrible at math throughout high school so that doesn't help either :p.  
 
i'd put her at around 20 years old also, saw her in my local Music-Go-Round paired with the Hartke 3500 and had to have her, overall it was a good price especially for what i got. i'm no expert on replacing speakers at all so that will be a completely different story when i get to that point :p. after seeing all the information about this i'll probably just end up keeping her and focus on what kind of head would go best, as of now my 1001RB sounds good but the person who had it before me modded it to be able to use the outputs out of the back for some reason and now one of the wires is loose because if i kepp the volume low and try to turn it up and it makes  a horrible crackling noise until it's past the 7o'clock position so going to have to go in and fix that problem.
 
i run this in the right full range input and if you put your ear to the cabinet you can hear it coming out of both the 4x10 and 1x15. soon i'm hoping to try and hook both my heads up through the bi-amp inputs and use a y cable to plug from my pedalboard into both heads and see what else she is capable of, thanks for all the help guys
 
~Taylor

[2400wattman]

Dave, I think the crossover is specific to bi-amp mode and full range is of course the whole enchilada!
 
Taylor, if it's a loose wire it's a simple fix with a solder iron. Don't be scared to crack it open and have a look. This is how you get to know things and as an amp tech once told me 90% of my repairs are cold solder joints. That piece of info applied to a little perusing around whatever device was on the fritz has saved me quite a bit of $$$ and the show went on!  
As far as speakers go (if you're interested) Eminence makes great drivers and also makes them for just about every damn company out there, heck there in your cab right now. I would look at ten drivers in the 100-200 watt 8 ohm variety and a 400-600 watt 15 8ohm.  
It's up to you and of course we all understand getting something new or slightly used.  
Good luck!

[tmoney61092]

Adam, i have a lot of experience with a soldering iron and basses. my 5 string was made in korea and was also my first active bass so i was pretty excited because it was a decent price, well about 6 months after getting it my band was getting ready to play a pretty important gig and was the biggest one we played. so we are rehearsing making sure we have everything down and my bass just stops working, so i change the batteries, still no sound. i'm rushing around because we were packing to head out to the gig and i had to drive home, get my dad to help me look around inside the control cavity to see what was wrong. well come to find out one of the wires on the battery clip came unsoldered AND one of the wires on the input jack came unsoldered. so after repairing those and playing a successful gig, that entire bass was resoldered the next day to ensure that wouldn't happen again .
 
for the speakers, thanks for that bit of information. i love the way my amp sounds and will definitely look into those Eminence drivers. i just don't know anything about wiring of a cabinet or woofers and tweeters and all that. but never to late to try on my little 10 watt amp
 
oh and by the way, i unplugged my 1001RB from the full range mode and tested out the bi-amp inputs to make sure they worked. it was cool being able to hear the difference between the 2 speaker combinations while keeping the setting the same, definitely will be having fun when i can set both my heads up. also worth mentioning, i'm hopefully about to win a BOSS GEB-7 graphic EQ pedal so that i can have it set to give a boost to the midrange if i need it for any specific song, pretty excited about being able to do that. that being said and since i no longer need a new head right now, i'm going to need a new pedalboard, i currently have the BOSS BCB-60 which is AMAZING, convenient, and light. i'm just out of room, in fact i have 2 pedals off my board because of my ZOOM pod that i use mostly for a tuner but also helps clean my sound up a little. i'm thinking about the SKB PB-45, i've seen them at a decent price of around $150 used and they have a lot of room. any other board/brand anyone can recommend? thanks
 
~Taylor