Author Topic: Scratch Removal (Read 158 times)

flpete1uw · « **on:** October 16, 2012, 05:58:52 AM »

Has anyone used this product? A lot of times when something looks to good, well you know. I mostly have a small fine sandpaper dulling from a scratch repair I would like to shine up.
Thank You for any input
Pete
http://www.guitarscratchremover.com/

peoplechipper · « **Reply #1 on:** October 16, 2012, 01:20:11 PM »

I only ever fix scratches on other people's guitars I repair, my own have war wounds...my Alembic less than the others though. I use automotive cut polish and fine polishing paper...Tony

terryc · « **Reply #2 on:** October 16, 2012, 01:24:07 PM »

I have done some re finishing on cars and furniture, this looks the same as a fine polishing paste that is used to removed scratches from plastic bumpers(fenders to the usa guys) and motorcycle fairings(which will most probably be cheaper)
T Cut finishing paste is the one to go for, get a clean lint free cloth or microfibre cloth, apply the paste to the cloth or the surface and gently apply pressure with a circular movement, don't go too vigourously or use too much pressure. Rub for a a minute or two and inspect regulary to see if the scratch is diminishing.
Once you are happy with the result apply Alembic's own guitar polish or a quality furniture polish and buff to a shine. Good luck

flpete1uw · « **Reply #3 on:** October 17, 2012, 03:11:34 AM »

So if I'm reading this correct a good polish made for cars (Ex. T cut) can be used on Alembic finishes with good results. As of right now the scratch is gone and I'm trying to shine up the dull spot left by the 2500 grit sandpaper. Note: the sanding did not breach to the wood.
Thank You for the input
Pete

lbpesq · « **Reply #4 on:** October 17, 2012, 08:05:24 AM »

Back when I managed a tropical fish store, I used to take scratches out of plexiglass aquariums. To finish them, I used a product called micro mesh which was a series of finer and finer sandpaper that was developed to take scratches out of fighter jet cockpit windows. A quick web search shows that Stewart MacDonald (stewmac.com) carries it. It goes up to 12,000 grit and left the aquariums completely clear.

Bill, tgo

terryc · « **Reply #5 on:** October 17, 2012, 08:59:33 AM »

flpete1uw..yeah Alembics finishes are really tough coatings, any quality car wax polish brings them up beautifully if you have non of Alembic's own, in fact any wood polish will do the same.
Ibpesq..that sounds like a really good product to have in my workshop, I may try and source some in the UK

jzstephan · « **Reply #6 on:** October 17, 2012, 09:23:02 AM »

Paste type toothpaste is a decent polishing compound but may not be as fine as you need. Be sure to keep it wet. Make sure there are no crystals in the toothpaste. Toothpaste with baking soda is best. I use it to remove scratches from CDs. (I mean from my iPod) Gel type toothpaste will not polish but will still leave your Alembic minty fresh.

keith_h · « **Reply #7 on:** October 17, 2012, 09:59:33 AM »

For furniture I typically use pumice and rottenstone mixed with paraffin oil. I start with the pumice and follow it with the rottenstone. You would use a felt pad to apply the slurry and polish the surface. Between the two you can get anything from a satin finish to high gloss finish that you can see your reflection in.

Keith

gtrguy · « **Reply #8 on:** October 17, 2012, 11:23:52 AM »

I restore cars and have a fair amount of experience at this kind of stuff.

Usually, 2500 grit will not burn through a finish, since it is so fine. It will dull down a finish (which it is supposed to do). I usually start with a little used 600 grit for a moment, if it is a bad scratch, and then move on to a 1000 (1000 is pretty safe) and a 1500 and a 2000. Any sandpaper (use a wet one and use lots of water) should be used with a professional flat sanding pad. Resist the temptation to just sand one tiny area with your fingers and instead sand with a pad on a bigger area to get it all flat.

You then need to rub it out. I use a swirl remover polish with great results but there are other products that work. You need to go to a Professional car paint store and buy a professional product and then test it out on something first. Once you find a product you like, stick with it. It will not be cheap and expect to pay $20 for a container of it.

You will want to use a good clean cotton cloth (tee shirt works) on a small area and some elbow grease and rub it out by hand. Larger areas like a car you can use an AIR powered buffer with a High Quality backing wheel only if you know what you are doing (it will go right through a finish if you do not know what you are doing). Avoid the electric buffers unless it is something like a fiberglass boat hull.

After rubbing it out, I usually let it sit for a week or two if it is an older finish and a month or two if it is new to let it dry and then wax it with a Good quality carnauba wax like Mothers. Avoid the cheap stuff.

All in all, you need to use the best professional products and find something you like that you know works and get used to using it. It is not that hard, but there are no shortcuts.

Here is a pic of a vintage 76 Musicman I just refinished. Some clown sanded off the original finish (never a good idea). It was black and I had to take it down to bare wood. It has a real open grain, which I had to level first with a sealer. I wanted it to look older rather than new and did not do a 100% perfect job (never a problem with my getting less than perfect!) and I am pretty happy with it. It has a slightly mottled look to the wood color which I think makes it look more like a 35 year old played on finish.

flpete1uw · « **Reply #9 on:** October 24, 2012, 02:41:14 PM »

As a follow up I did wind up getting this product and it did work as it said it would. You wouldn't even know that the sanding marks were ever there.
Thank you all for your input its always great to have a learned place to turn to with these kind of issues.
Pete