Series 1 Bass Strings Flat / Round?

[flpete1uw]

I just picked up a 75 Series 1 Short Scale Bass and when I get any new (Or should I say new to me) Bass. I clean it, oil the fret board, check the neck, look over the electronics and put new strings on it. I have forever used Nickel round wounds 45-100?s. So there is a consistency on what I expect to hear.  My Distillate and Persuader both acted as expected and with normal break in I pretty much got the sound I needed relatively quickly.  
These Series seem to be cut from a different cloth. Although I really enjoy the sounds coming out of her, I just couldn?t get the low end needed for what I do. This Bass is so clear that whatever it sounds like unplugged is what comes out of the amp. I kept trying to get the sound I wanted hoping when the strings finally break in I could work with it. Not so much. So I put the strings that came with it back on, what looks like D?Addario Flats and instant low end without losing enough highs and harmonics. The Bass seemed to be able to dial up these Highs better than boosting the lows with the round wounds?
I guess this is a long winded way of asking the Bass playing Elite their experiences on this and if Flats are the way to go maybe a few recommendations?  
Thank You
New to Series world
Pete

[pace]

Yeah Pete, flats are the way to go..... Somewhere in the archives you'll find a thread where Mica credits her father designing the series circuit with flatwounds as the benchmark
 
A couple years ago Mica mentioned that they were testing strings from several manufactures and the results weren't too impressive at the time. I don't think the results of their in house 'shootout' were ever divulged.

[keith_h]

I hate to disagree with Mike but rounds are the way to go. I use the hard to find these days Alembic CX3's. What it boils down to is you are going to have to find what works for you and what you play.  
 
One thing I have found is I need to EQ my preamp differently for my Series and non-Series fretted basses. I think in part it has to do with the differences in wood. I've found with the Series I have to back off on the lows a bit and increase the highs slightly. My other basses need a bit more in the low mid-range and seem to have more high end. For some reason my fretless seems to sound good at either EQ with just a tweak here or there on the basses' tone controls.  
 
Keith

[terryc]

Well going back to 1998 when I got my MK I too noticed the lack of low end(as compared to my Alembic powered P bass).
I never have liked flatwounds but the way around it was to use my Zoom pedal to dial in extra bass without adjusting the amp, especially when playing live. I had the early Zoom 506 but now have the latest bass version which has a huge choice of low tones but in the end it what suits you and your playing style.

[Glynn]

Just a thought - how about approaching the problem from the amplifier end.  I have an Alembic Orion 4 which I love.  When I had MarkBass amplification, I had to boost the bass on the guitar considerably to get a sound which I was never quite happy with.  I sold the MarkBass gear and now have a GenzBenz Streamliner 900 and two Bergantino HD112 cabs.  I can now run the Orion without any bass boost on the guitar and get my best sound ever.  Also I have gone back to Ceramic not Neo drivers so that may influence and the Streamliner has 3 valves.  I have never had any other Alembic so can't really compare but it might be worth a try.  I have always used Elites Stainless Roundwounds at 40 to 100.  Is the gauge on your bottom string heavy enough? Glynn

[adriaan]

On my Spoiler, when I went from regular DR Hi Beams  to the Marcus Miller signature set, Fat Beams, there was a noticeable increase in the lower frequencies. Now I dial in not nearly half as much bass boost on the amp.
 
Going to a 45-105 set might help too.

[edwin]

I really like the flat wound sound on my Series I shorty, but it's not the only way to go. Back in the day, when I had a long scale Series I, I had a problem getting decent low end out of it with rounds, but then I tried some DR Sunbeams. Holy moly! The low end was amazing. They also sound great on the shorty. So, I think it depends a lot on the string. Series basses are a different animal, so it does take some experimentation to get to what might be a previous comfort zone. However, if you start without trying to match previous conceptions, you might find yourself going to some new places only the Series basses go.

[flpete1uw]

Edwin, your right in that the Series sounds like no other and just experimenting with her I am finding myself in new places. This was my intensions in the first place, and even though I do feel that my previous conceptions will have to be rethought out I do need to get to a starting point for the sound that is expected of me and the rest will expand from there. I might try the Sunbeams Thanks for the input.
I play through a Mesa Walkabout 12 and I did mess around with the settings some and it still wasn?t right. I feel this shouldn?t be necessary using these Basses. I?m all flat on the amp settings on my other Basses and use the settings on the Bass for all my needs.
I?m most comfortable with the 45-100 strings but I can see why the fatter strings might help. I was blown away on the complete change in sound from the 2 types of strings. The DiAddario 170s round wounds just sounded hollow and no matter what I did they just fell short.  
I guess its back to the drawing board  
~Pete

[edwin]

I hear you, it's an interesting situation. I also use lighter strings, 40-100, so I don't think the gauge affects the ability to get a deep tone and I do think that the stiffer the string, the less true the harmonics.

[afrobeat_fool]

Hey Pete! I still have the S1 1180 that Edwin sold me. I also have a SII shorty. The builds are different, but I have done some experimenting with the round and flat strings on both recently. First I will say that all the strings sounded good on the shorty. But by far, the best sounding string set was the purple wound Tomastik 43-100. the best rounds set was the high beams DR 40-100. The longer S1 liked the GHS flats. The lighter E string made the bass sing. The low end wasn't perfect but I made up for it by tweaking my amp. I think the lighter string resonated better with the purpleheart. I also believe the Tomastiks were better suited to the walnut in my neck. There is benefit to having dark strings with bright woods and vise' versa. Going dark/dark with strings and wood, I can only pull it off with SII electronics. But it is very powerful. I can come sooooo close to sounding like an upright, it's hard to tell the difference. I guess what I am trying to say is if you have a maple bass w/ maple purpleheart neck, you might need a string designed for more bass.  
 
I am stoked to hear you setting up your amp neutral. It is the way I figured out the SI controls. I still keep my amp set that way now. I love hearing the Alembic tone and attack. That's why I can't play anything else. I do hope my Hyak will sound more 'Alembic' after I get it back, but it probably won't.  
 
Only an Alembic sounds like that!

[flpete1uw]

Man I Love all this Info! Nick, There is no doubt the Basses build is coming into play. The Neck is Maple Walnut (Bright/mellow) and the sandwich is Koa/Maple/Zebrawood (Again bright/mellow/neutral?) Short scale Series 1. I'm not even sure how this Bass would be described to look into Dark / bright string pairing with the Bass. At present the D?Addario flats are close but I?m not convinced. There are a lot of good suggestions I wish the strings were a little cheaper for the learning curve.
~Pete

[willgunn]

During the '70's (and for maybe a bit longer, but I'm not sure), Alembic basses (all of them being  Series-type instruments during that era too) shipped out with Pyramid Gold flatwound strings installed - just to give some idea as to what Ron and the rest of the crew considered the ideal string at the time. During the 6 years I had AC 76 405 in my possession, that's all I used on it, and there was no shortage of low-end response - or highs, for that matter....they were the brightest sounding flats I've yet to encounter!

[keith_h]

Pete, With what I assume is a maple core and the maple in the neck I would think your instrument would be on the bright side. The other woods would temper that some but the maple will dominate.  
 
I don't know how old the Chromes are that you have on the bass but I found that they took several weeks to break in and mellow out on my fretless. At first they were just too bright and kind of tinny. I have not changed them since I received the bass and like the tone they have developed.  
 
Keith

[5a_quilt_top]

Keith - D'Addario Chromes, correct?
 
Question -
 
How do they compare to Pyramid Golds, Tomastik Jazz Flats or Alembic CX eliptical wound?
 
I've been thinking about changing to flats from the standard Alembic CX style.

[keith_h]

David, I can't say as I've not tried the others on the fretless. I started with the Chromes and was happy so didn't try anything else.  
 
On my fretted small standard body 4 string basses I use Alembic CX strings and am happy. On my 5 string Orion I've tried Alembic CX and GHS Brite Flats and have settled into Dean Markley NPS Roundcore.  
 
Keith