Author Topic: Optima 24 Carat Gold-Plated Strings? (Read 1046 times)

jazzyvee · « **Reply #15 on:** July 13, 2015, 02:52:51 AM »

Thanks Terry, maybe i should treat myself to a set for my Series II bass sometime and hear what they are like. I've been thinking of getting some black coated strings for my black Europa too but put off by reports of the coating not being very durable.

Glynn · « **Reply #16 on:** July 13, 2015, 04:23:25 AM »

?42 a 4-set from Strings Direct it seems. I am tempted - any more people tried them? (Presently pleased with Skjold S/S at ?20)

Glynn

Glynn · « **Reply #17 on:** July 14, 2015, 04:14:32 PM »

Plunged- ordered a set from Strings Direct. Will report back.

FC Bass · « **Reply #18 on:** July 16, 2015, 04:39:27 AM »

I wouldn't say they last longer, but they sure look extremely neat :-)

Normally I use stainless steel strings that can easily (and very effectively) be revived by soaking them in methylated spirit. (I have a stainless steel tube for this and let them soak overnight, they come out as new -> unlike when you're boiling (destroying) them in water)

The Optima's do corrode after some time, these are mine after being extremely abused for a long time:

terryc · « **Reply #19 on:** July 17, 2015, 02:32:38 AM »

Bloody hell FC !..you got H2SO4 coming out of your fingertips ??
Obviously that rust is coming from the wire when the plating has worn off !

senmen · « **Reply #20 on:** July 17, 2015, 02:46:55 AM »

Well,
I once tried them as JE also played them for some Time But I Must say they really did Not Last that long and they Are way too overpriced.
I Need that extra Piano twang and I get this much better with Rotos. But Rotos nowadays also have a Problem because they Seem to have Changed the Steel At one Point and so the Result is much more Rough feeling with them nowadays.
Just my Personal opinion
Oliver (Spyderman)

edwardofhuncote · « **Reply #21 on:** July 17, 2015, 03:39:24 AM »

Slightly off-topic...

Anyone here use a GHS product called FastFret? (it's a string cleaner and lubricant)

I have used it for years to preserve my acoustic guitar strings, mostly because I hate breaking-in time on new strings. I soon found it also extends the life of bass guitar strings, especially the bronze-wound nylon TI Acousticores, and TI Jazz Flats. (both sets = $100 U.S.)

senmen · « **Reply #22 on:** July 17, 2015, 04:38:02 AM »

Edward,
Yes I Use it from Time to Time, mainly for cleaning.
Oliver (Spyderman)

jazzyvee · « **Reply #23 on:** July 17, 2015, 06:19:43 AM »

I have it and use it when I remember but I can't actually say that i've noticed any benefit at all. It has a nice smell when you first rub it on the strings.... :-)

lbpesq · « **Reply #24 on:** July 17, 2015, 08:28:41 AM »

My Optima Golds arrived yesterday and I put them on my Alembicized Modulus/Warmoth that I built last year. They do look sweet against the flame Koa top and the black graphite neck. The real test comes tomorrow when I play with Wolf (Sonicus), another guitar player, and a drummer.

Bill, tgo

sonicus · « **Reply #25 on:** July 17, 2015, 09:09:10 AM »

Bill,
I look forward to the jam. I think that the musical chemistry with that drummer will be good as well as with everyone else.

With strings of gold there might even be propensity towards ALCHEMY !

Wolf AKA Sonicus @ The Alembic Club

5a_quilt_top · « **Reply #26 on:** July 17, 2015, 09:11:11 AM »

Beware using too much FastFret. It will build up on your fretboard and actually attract the dirt and crap that contributes to shorter string life. The more dirt and crap that is attracted, the more you'll want to use the product and a vicious cycle begins.

I can't begin to tell you the number of filthy fretboards resulting from this product that we've cleaned at the guitar store where I work. It's so annoying that we no longer carry the product.

Whether you use Optima Golds, Thomastiks or less expensive strings, the single most important thing you can do to prolong string life is keep your fretboard clean. And a clean fretboard starts with clean hands and fingers.

lbpesq · « **Reply #27 on:** July 17, 2015, 09:29:29 AM »

David:

What would you use to clean the phenolic fretboard on a graphite neck?

Bill, tgo

5a_quilt_top · « **Reply #28 on:** July 17, 2015, 10:51:27 AM »

Soft, non-abrasive cloth or a Q-tip and a very small amount of mild non-abrasive cleaner (possibly SimpleGreen). For less involved cleaning, I'd try a little plain tap water mixed with a small amount of liquid soap (like Dawn).

Whatever you do, don't soak the fretboard - make sure your cloth is just damp enough to remove the dirt.

And, as you probably have figured out, the critical areas are right around the frets because that's where most of the crud collects. I use a damp Q-tip for that and sometimes have to resort to very careful use of a sharp X-acto blade for the really crusty stuff.

If you do a light cleaning with each string change and routinely clean your hands before you play, you should have little or no build-up.

Do let us know how those Optima strings perform - I've been curious enough to want to try them, but the price is a little scary.

dfung60 · « **Reply #29 on:** July 18, 2015, 09:18:36 PM »

Bill -

Phenolic was the first commercial composite material. It's basically paper impregnated with a resin material. The problem is that paper can still absorb water, especially in a fingerboard which is sanded to an radius which exposes the layers (that's why it can sometimes look like woodgrain).

So don't get it sopping wet, but if you use a damp cloth with some soap, you'll probably be OK. You don't want it to be so wet that water gets into the fret slots.

Original Steinbergers also have phenolic fingerboards and the Steinbergerworld crowd likes to use WD-40 to clean the fretboard (Ned approves), but I have to admit that I've never tried that.

David Fung