Author Topic: Well, we decided (Read 424 times)

57basstra · « **Reply #15 on:** March 01, 2009, 04:21:48 PM »

May I sit in on your stuff?

cozmik_cowboy · « **Reply #16 on:** March 01, 2009, 07:07:40 PM »

Danno, just to clarify in case I missed something - when you say 10-string, are you talking a doubled 5, or are you one-upping (or would that be two-upping?) 8SK Mark?

Peter

dannobasso · « **Reply #17 on:** March 02, 2009, 06:42:28 AM »

Just a lil' ol' double 5. I think Mark's 8 is amazing. I did have a Stickbass 8 but I traded it for the Stambaugh. King's X has always been a favorite of mine and live they are amazing. Inspired, I got a Hamer 12 but it's not an Alembic and they don't do a double 5. When i paid off the fretless 5 I thought I was done with new basses but the lovely ladies at Alembic have a way of making your ideas come to reality. So here we go again. So the Hamer has to go, along with a Ravenwest 8 and a Ripper to help defray the cost of this new beauty.

s_wood · « **Reply #18 on:** March 02, 2009, 08:08:33 AM »

Danno:
I used to own the Acacia 10 string pictured below. It was a nice bass, but ultimately not for me. For one thing, it wasn't an Alembic! Also, the wenge neck and board was, I think, a mistake: too midrangy, hence too muddy. The wood choices you made, with the accuracy of Alembic electronics and the help of the sustain block, will be much better. The ebony neck lam will really enhance the low end- you will be shocked at how much difference it makes. (I was, anyway!) Will you have your octave strings on top (closest to your body) or on the bottom (closest to the floor)? The choice really affects the tone.

One thing you might want to think about is a stereo output. The tone you can get running a 10 string into 2 amps (tube distortion for the bridge pickup, and a cleaner, bassier tone for the neck pickup) is unbelievably huge. You can also do the same thing with a mono output by using a splitter box, which is how I did it. Either way, when you get your 10'er just try it: use your rig for the lows, and your guitarist's rig for your high end. Total world domination, bro.

Oh, one other thing: don't sell the Ripper. Rippers rule, in their own peculiar way!

Here's the Acacia:

kenbass4 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 02, 2009, 08:10:36 AM »

Danno,

Sound like a killer project! I have a (dumb) question though: Why Koa under the black paint? If you're going to hide the beautiful wood, why pay the upcharge? Just curious.

Ken (TEO)

dannobasso · « **Reply #20 on:** March 02, 2009, 09:05:27 AM »

Its really for the tone. I have a wide Spoiler six with the recipe for this bass. It has my favorite tone of my collection so I figured I'd try it again. Since this top isn't very fancy and under the paint it is merely functional. Susan also keeps in mind that I may want to refinish it in the future. A women's touch! I always trust their judgement and suggestions. I had a few built before FTC and received them without any hint of their beauty. My Koa top 6 is truly inspiring.

bsee · « **Reply #21 on:** March 02, 2009, 11:22:02 AM »

Steve's question regarding octave string position is an interesting one. I always got the impression that octaves toward the floor was more typical, and that it favored pick playing, where octaves toward the body favored fingers.

I would suspect that the proximity of the octave to the bass string impacts tone as well. Closer together has to be easier to play, but muddier as the strings may contact each other in vibration. Wider separation better allows the strings to ring more independently, but has to be harder to play cleanly.

So, Danno, did you spec these things or leave them up to Alembic?

-bob

dannobasso · « **Reply #22 on:** March 02, 2009, 12:00:36 PM »

They are working on a 2nd series 2 10 I believe and have some strong examples of what works well. Neck will be 1.875 to 2.93. I just asked some questions and they made suggestions and we came to a conclusion. I almost always play with a pick live so spacing isn't really too critical an issue. That said I have and had short, almost medium, medium, long and 35 scale basses. I have comfort and jazz spacings from 4 to 7 strings and the Warwick 8, Ravenwest 8 and Hamer 12 animals. I like to be able to move from bass to bass without the switching issues some guys have. So I play them in turn so I can be flexible. Now when I go from 32 7 fretless to 34 5 fretless I have to be more dilligent. Most multies I have seen have the octave before the fundamental but I'll give Senny a call to clarify.

altgrendel · « **Reply #23 on:** March 02, 2009, 12:25:35 PM »

I remember reading in another thread here that the position of the octave strings depend on if you pick (octave/fundamental) or pluck (fundamental/octave).

olieoliver · « **Reply #24 on:** March 02, 2009, 12:33:47 PM »

Something else to concider is which do you want to be dominant. The low or high string.
My Ibanez has the low string below it's octave, and me playing always with my fingers, making the lower string much more dominant over it's octave. I used to think it was just because of the heavier string until I played an 8 strung the other way.

I'm with you Danno on the playing them all. I switch back and forth from my 32, 34 and 35 scale basses just so I will feel comfortable with them all. I like the variety of sound and Timbre I get from the different axes.

OO
OO

s_wood · « **Reply #25 on:** March 02, 2009, 01:29:48 PM »

Danno:
My Acacia had its bass or regular strings on the bottom (meaning closest to the floor) to faciliate fingerstyle playing. The idea is that one's fingers would strike the regular strings just before hitting the octave strings, thereby accenting the fundamental. If you are a pick style player, you might choose to have the regular strings on top, where your downstrokes with a pick would strike them first. Of course, there's no right or wrong - it's whatever works for you!

funkyjazzjunky · « **Reply #26 on:** March 02, 2009, 02:11:20 PM »

Koa Top is an excellent choice

keith_h · « **Reply #27 on:** March 02, 2009, 05:28:34 PM »

I have a Hagstrom 8. It is a short scale and has it's octave on top and regular string below. It was really designed for pick style playing where you hit the octave then the regular string on the down stroke. I will occasionally use my fingers but to me it does not sound right with the regular string being hit before the octave. What I find I end up doing is using my thumb to get that fuller finger sound. I have also found the strings to be too close together for really comfortable finger style playing.

If I decided to do a custom I would most likely go with the octave on the bottom to accommodate finger style playing better. I would also be sure to allow sufficient space between the strings.

Keith

pauldo · « **Reply #28 on:** March 02, 2009, 07:50:07 PM »

ROFLMAO
*No not the Greek games.*
I have had TOO many people say that,,,, Olympic??? I just nod my head and mumble something about getting more equipment out of the van and walk away....

dannobasso · « **Reply #29 on:** March 03, 2009, 08:47:20 PM »

And away we go. Mica gave me choices of peghead, reconfigured body for carving and I chose the traditional octave-fundamental combo. I don't know what its like to be an expectant parent but my Alembic customs have to scratch the surface a tad. FTC is a bit like a sonogram. Still cheaper than the live human type so I am told. Oh btw I'm registered at Wiljan Court Santa Rosa for the shower.