Author Topic: Strap locks? (Read 1023 times)

lscolman · « **on:** June 05, 2009, 02:32:21 PM »

Hi,

Wondering if there are strap locks which are compatible with the existing hardware on an Alembic.

I'm not really keen on replacing the existing hardware on my spoiler.

Cheers, Lee

olieoliver · « **Reply #1 on:** June 05, 2009, 06:16:22 PM »

It should've came with strap lock buttons on it. I happen to like the Dunlop and all my have them but I think Alembic comes factory with Schaller unless ordered otherwise

OO

mica · « **Reply #2 on:** June 05, 2009, 06:24:57 PM »

A Spoiler would likely have some with strap pins. If you want locks on it, you'll need to change the anchor, and as Olie states, Dunlop and Schaller and the choices.

fernandobicho · « **Reply #3 on:** June 05, 2009, 07:55:17 PM »

Hi
Jim Dunlop STRAPLOK fits well in my '92 Elan 5..
cheers

adriaan · « **Reply #4 on:** June 07, 2009, 03:11:11 PM »

I don't know other makes, but the Schallers are an easy replacement. You unscrew the original strap holders, then you use the same screw to install the Schaller studs. Piece of cake.

jacko · « **Reply #5 on:** June 07, 2009, 04:26:25 PM »

It's a good idea to put some sort of glue in the screw hole before replacing the straplok. I replaced the pins on my epic some time ago and forgot the glue. halfway through a gig I noticed the screw was almost out. A lucky escape that taught me a lesson ;-)

Graeme

jakebass · « **Reply #6 on:** June 07, 2009, 04:55:25 PM »

I did the same on my MK deluxe Graham...
I had a similar moment of horror looking down and seeing the screw out :-0
Jake

mica · « **Reply #7 on:** June 09, 2009, 09:56:42 AM »

I prefer the method of fill the hole (wood and glue), redrill the pilot hole and install with a standard wood screw and no glue. You might want to take it out later.

Also, please don't fall prey to the security of any strapholder, lock or otherwise. You need to check the anchor pin regularly for signs of wood cell compression. If it's even slightly loose, tighten that up! If you wait until it's wobbly, it may strip out completely, and possibly leave you with an Alembic on the floor.

Also, if you are a straplock user, do check the connection on the strap regularly as well. Those nuts can back off and cause a similar tragedy.

Even if you use lowly pins like I do, it's still prudent to check the anchor for compression.

sonicus · « **Reply #8 on:** June 09, 2009, 10:38:26 AM »

For added protection for a straplock user perhaps using a thread locking product such as LOCKTITE on the straplock nut. What do you think ? one would have to apply it sparingly as not to stain the strap.

hb3 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 09, 2009, 11:17:56 AM »

Also, please don't fall prey to the security of any strapholder, lock or otherwise. You need to check the anchor pin regularly for signs of wood cell compression. If it's even slightly loose, tighten that up! If you wait until it's wobbly, it may strip out completely.

That's about where I am w/ my jazz bass. I have to retighten before every gig. It's worrisome

lbpesq · « **Reply #10 on:** June 09, 2009, 12:50:48 PM »

I just found a new company that makes straps with a lock built right in. They work on any guitar. I bought a couple, a leather one and a hemp one with a 60's type design. The lock portion seems to work very well. It is especially good for instruments with the strap pin on the back at the foot of the neck rather than on the upper horn. I find that most straplocks dig into me on these type mounts. The Lock-it straps are no thicker than a regular strap. The leather one was only one layer - I'm used to 3 layer Moody straps. Otherwise it was quite nice. here's a link.

Bill, tgo

mica · « **Reply #11 on:** June 09, 2009, 01:01:08 PM »

Adding Locktite is fine on the nut - again, it's best not to just think one can forget about it at that point. Maybe I'm a little crazy, but I would still check the connection at least once a week.

I'll have to try one of those straps, Bill. Thanks for the tip!

olieoliver · « **Reply #12 on:** June 09, 2009, 01:01:17 PM »

Pretty cool strap Bill!

Hugh, Elmers glue and wood matches (or any slither of wood) always fixed that problem for me. My Jazz was the same way, I slipped some wood and glue into hole screwed the button in and let it dry overnight. Hasn't come loose in 20 years since repairing it.

OO

terryc · « **Reply #13 on:** June 09, 2009, 01:08:05 PM »

This is what I have done for years.
Sonicus beat me to it but use Loctite thread locking fluid on the screw going into the wood, drop the fluid into the hole and replace screw.
It will come loose with relatively easy reverse torque unlike glue which is very difficult.
Loctite the nuts on the strap connectiors as sonicus says, you only need a small amount and it holds fast..it also comes loose easily for replacement.
I assume that wear and tear wil happen eventually where there is wood/metal interface with some movement so always check every few months that all is secure..I once saw a Gibson Les Paul bounce on the stage, it survived but the owner had a heart attack!!

sonicus · « **Reply #14 on:** June 09, 2009, 01:08:16 PM »

Hi Bill , those sure look like swell straps. I think i will order The light brown 2.5 inch model
Thanks ,
Wolf