Regluing binding

[hammer]

Hey everyone. Prior to getting my hands on an old Series I fretless I needed a bass I could use in the newgrass band in which I play. I purchased a Rob Allen which when equipped with coated strings gave me the sound I needed. When the Series I came onto play I put the Rob Allen away and didn't touch it for about a year. When I opened it up the other day I discovered that the binding had come loose around 30% or so of the body. I’m looking for suggestions as to what the appropriate glue would be to reattach.

[edwardofhuncote]

What is the binding made of, Brian? That has a lot of bearing on what adhesive should or should not be used.


I will be glad to reach out to the Rob Allen guys on TalkBass on your behalf, as they might provide a quick answer.

[hammer]

Greg. The answer to your question as to what the binding is made of is “I don’t know.” My first impression would be plastic but that would be pretty cheap for a bass that goes for close to three grand. That was the primary reason for the ask for help. I emailed Rob Allen several days ago with the question but have yet to receive a reply. I’m not on TalkBass so would appreciate your reaching out to the RA group there. Thanks

[edwardofhuncote]

Email me a couple pictures you wouldn't mind me posting over there... I'll ask around and see if these guys know what the scoop is. https://www.talkbass.com/threads/show-us-your-rob-allen-basses-part-iv.1020282/page-50 (theirs is the most active thread on the site)

*Interestingly enough, read post #966 in that thread!

Just my intuition; if it's wood binding onto wood, I'll guess hot hide glue or good ol' Titebond, both of which clean up with water. Plastic and celluloid is going to be trickier without fouling up a finish. Do-able, just gotta' be careful. They've been around forever though and in wide use... not really a bad thing. Could also be a composite fiber material.

[sonofa_lembic]

I believe Rob uses a plastic binding with a Poly finish.  If that is indeed the case, you will want to use thin cyanoacrylate glue very carefully.  If you do get a drip, it can be carefully leveled with sand paper and buffed out.  I would also glue about 3" at a time, allowing the glue to wick down into the crack, while making sure the binding is fully seated to the routed channel.  It also helps to have zip kicker at hand to speed up the drying process.  This is an extremely tricky repair, and should be done by a well regarded luthier.