Author Topic: (x) Side LEDs  (Read 5061 times)

mica

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« Reply #120 on: March 06, 2007, 06:22:54 PM »
Confirmed that the work order reflects these items. You do realize you won't have a standby position with your change? Also, if you are using the collet knob or the top hat knob, we can put a regular round knob on the switch, the same as the rest of the controls. I've got them both in 1/4 shaft and 1/8 shaft.

jtussing

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« Reply #121 on: March 06, 2007, 07:42:56 PM »
Thanks, Mica. Confirming everything here except the following:
 
I assume your do you realize statement applies to the pickup selector switch. I undertand you to be saying that the standard switch has a stand-by: Neck, Both, Bridge, Standby(none).  I was not aware of the (none) setting and find it valuable. Given this, I accept the standard 4-way switch with standby with standard pie-shaped selector so it's not easily confused with something else.
 
As usual, Alembic experience prevails as it should. :-)
 
Please confirm my assumption and choice on the pickup selector.  
 
And thanks so much for your help.
 
- Jim

jtussing

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« Reply #122 on: March 07, 2007, 04:52:48 AM »
Also, just a heads up if it's not to late, I'd like a look at the control layout before the holes are drilled.  I'm pretty sure standard layout for the Anniversary elec's will be fine but wanted to take a quick gander.
 
Thanks!

jags

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« Reply #123 on: March 07, 2007, 05:20:40 AM »
go for the stand by,its worth it,i love it.  very handy when you want total silence in an instant,and not have to worry about altering your sound. the cool thing about anniversary electronics is that there is no blend it independant volume controls,which i like better. so if you have different volume outputs for your pickups,(which i do lots)and want quiet for a second,(in between songs)without changing your sound at all,just flick back to standby.shhh.switch back again,your there.its beauty really. i love it, it also helps to measure sustain in a quiet room,you can flick it back and forth and listen for  a hum and silence.  these alembics ring forever

mica

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« Reply #124 on: March 07, 2007, 05:12:56 PM »
Hi Jim,
 
Yes, I was referring to changing from the standard 4-position switch to a 3-position switch regarding the loss of standby.  
 
You can see the 20th Anniversary electronics routing pattern on the basses in the Showcase section. Here's one that's especially clear. The layout is very similar to a Series I, but without the 5-pin  output of course.

mica

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« Reply #125 on: March 07, 2007, 05:16:45 PM »
And I have changed the work order back to a standard 4-position rotary switch.

jtussing

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« Reply #126 on: March 07, 2007, 05:52:53 PM »
Perfect.  The standard 4-position and the 20th anniversary electronics routing pattern are both fine.  
 
Thanks for the help!
 
Jim

jtussing

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« Reply #127 on: March 07, 2007, 05:55:15 PM »
P.S. I assume the LED switch would be an addition.  I'd like it to be above the stereo switch if possible (assuming that the stereo switch is the switch above the jack).  Let me know if that's not possible.
 
Thanks again!
 
Jim

mica

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« Reply #128 on: March 07, 2007, 06:05:35 PM »
The stereo/mono switch is above the jack. An LED operation switch is either located near the stereo/mono like on the Spyder basses or it's sometimes cast off in the distance like on this Brown Bass.  
 
To consider: When the switches are close together, they can be more difficult to operate. Also, you'll want to make sure you really know the layout when performing so you don't accidently go stereo mode when you mean to turn the LEDs on. It just depends on what you'll feel most comfortable operating.  
 
Just let me know your preference and I'll get the instructions marked clearly so that you get exactly what you want.

jtussing

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« Reply #129 on: March 07, 2007, 06:26:01 PM »
Spyder bass-esque works for me - very near the stereo switch.  I trust your judgement on exact placement. I'm not worried about operation close together for those two specific switches.
 
Thanks!
Jim

mica

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« Reply #130 on: March 07, 2007, 06:34:56 PM »
OK then, I'll make that change and it will be the last thing I do before doing some grocery shopping on the way home.

jtussing

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(x) Amber Tint?
« Reply #131 on: March 03, 2007, 05:19:56 AM »
Hi there!  8-string-king just mentioned something I might be interested in. He said there's a cool amber tint that you guys sometimes do on maple tops?  Can I see some examples of that?  I might be interested.
 
Thanks!

Bradley Young

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(x) Amber Tint?
« Reply #132 on: March 03, 2007, 11:47:43 AM »
If you have figured maple, I can't see *not* putting a little yellow tint on the instrument-- it really makes the figure pop.
 
I know there are some examples around here; I'll try to find some later.

jacko

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(x) Amber Tint?
« Reply #133 on: March 05, 2007, 04:44:10 AM »
Oliver's 'tears for John' Dragonwing has an amber tint.here
 
graeme

jtussing

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(x) Amber Tint?
« Reply #134 on: March 05, 2007, 05:28:58 PM »
Hey thanks for the pics. The tint is beautiful but I don't think its for me unless they could make it more subtle.