Author Topic: All of a Sudden No Sound! (Read 577 times)

bsee · « **Reply #15 on:** July 04, 2007, 11:09:13 AM »

Makes me wonder if some non-conductive paint should be applied over the conductive layer to avoid/minimize these sorts of problems? I say minimize since one could press hard enough to get through that top layer and hit the conductive layer, but it would be less likely. You need the conductive cage around the electronics to protect it from the outside. It isn't necessary for it to be seen from the inside.

terryc · « **Reply #16 on:** July 09, 2007, 08:04:21 AM »

bsee..I know what you mean..maybe to avoid this happening take the electronics out and line with a good quality electricians insulating tape

David Houck · « **Reply #17 on:** July 09, 2007, 08:18:10 PM »

Except of course where the electronics are grounded to the shielding.

adriaan · « **Reply #18 on:** July 11, 2007, 03:22:14 AM »

The problem seems to occur with the Epic style of electronics, where most of the pots have a small individual circuit board attached. As the pot is used over time, the nut that tightens the pot to the top wood gets a little loose, and the pot tends to turn a little, which eventually makes the small board short out against the shielding paint on the side of the cavity.

Not sure if it was earlier on this thread or elsewhere, but someone suggested placing a bit of foam between the circuit board and the side of the cavity.

There must be a way to fixate the pot so it doesn't turn any more - something like the screw on the base of a tuning peg. Other than that -use even smaller circuit boards? enlarge the cavity?

terryc · « **Reply #19 on:** July 11, 2007, 03:23:03 AM »

Good point...would have to cut an area for that to ground or screw a fixing tag into the cavity wood and ground at that point.

adriaan · « **Reply #20 on:** July 11, 2007, 03:38:49 AM »

The coat of non-conductive paint seems like a bad idea to me.

If the fixing tag is made of conductive material then the pot should still be grounded, would it not? Or perhaps the fixing tag would have to be attached to the body of the pot, rather than the shaft.

terryc · « **Reply #21 on:** July 11, 2007, 05:14:19 AM »

We are getting too complicated now..best just check the boards don't touch the paint..just like Mica says

bsee · « **Reply #22 on:** July 12, 2007, 08:42:44 AM »

Well, if the pot is actually twisting, it will eventually break connections, so doing something to hold the pot still seems a good idea. As a player, you should notice when the throw of the pot changes to favor one side more than the other in terms of range. As far as I have seen, straight up perpendicular to the neck is the middle of the range for all pots as installed.

As far as a non-conductive, it would only have to cover the sides of the cavity. That's the only plain where things can rotate and touch. I don't see any reason why this would be a bad idea.

terryc · « **Reply #23 on:** July 27, 2007, 03:22:05 AM »

Maybe we should add this to the check list of things when there is no sound.
1. Is amp plugged in & switched on(don't forget the stand by)
2. Is venue power tripped
3. Is guitar lead okay
4. Is battery okay
5. Is effects unit working
6. Is volume turned up on guitar and amp
7. Has circuits boards twisted and touching
cavity paint.
I know some of these points are obvious but I bet we have all done them at some time(or know someone who has)