Author Topic: Straplocks (Read 635 times)

essenceman · « **Reply #30 on:** July 25, 2007, 02:56:54 AM »

I don't think it is a 1/4 jack, Terry. Neutrik do make angled XLR plugs in all flavours (3, 4, 5, 6 & 7 pin). I bought one of these when I was toying with the idea of powering my Essence remotely - it's a beautifully-made plug. I've not seen a Neutrik 1/4 jack in the same casing.

Here are a couple of pictures of mine:

Neutrik have updated their products since I bought mine. Here are links to the relevant pages on their site:

Angled XLRs http://www.neutrik.com/uk/en/audio/204_997818242/RX_Series_productlist.aspx

1/4 jacks http://www.neutrik.com/uk/en/audio/204_789383662/1_4__Prof._Phone_Plugs,_X-Series_productlist.aspx

(Sorry, this wouldn't work as a link, you'll just have to copy and paste it.)

Cheers
Rob

(Message edited by essenceman on July 25, 2007)

terryc · « **Reply #31 on:** July 25, 2007, 08:31:02 AM »

Essenceman, if you look closely it is(byoung verifies it and you can see the 3 pin XLR plate near his finger) and I know because I have one on one of my leads. Same mount casing as XLR but 1/4 pin

keith_h · « **Reply #32 on:** July 25, 2007, 09:12:07 AM »

I'm not surprised he is using batteries in Europe (ie 1/4 inch jack). It probably easier to replace batteries than lug around a DS5 or the different voltage.

Keith

bassdr · « **Reply #33 on:** July 25, 2007, 11:11:04 AM »

When the screws holding my Schallers stripped out the holes in the wood I installed threaded bronze inserts into the wood and use machine screws. No more loosening screws. I also check the nuts that secure the strap locks to the leather strap everytime I play to make sure they aren't loose. I don't want to drop Flame Koa Essence! Michael

essenceman · « **Reply #34 on:** July 25, 2007, 12:34:21 PM »

Terry,
I stand corrected!
Rob

terryc · « **Reply #35 on:** July 26, 2007, 06:36:45 AM »

Bassdr - what a brilliant idea, I am off to the fastners suppliers to get some and do the same, maybe that could be a standard fitment for all Alembics and stop us putting cocktail sticks & matches in the holes

David Houck · « **Reply #36 on:** July 26, 2007, 07:15:04 AM »

Thanks Bradley!

newuser · « **Reply #37 on:** July 30, 2007, 05:45:38 AM »

Hey Bradley, care to share the dimensions of your threaded inserts? Thread count? Source?

E-Z LOK makes them and I've ordered some 1/4s from www.barnhillbolt.com (6-32 and 8-32 which is what they have). Will search for bolts when the inserts arrive. Schaller inner diameter is 1/8, but can be drilled a little larger (I've done this on an Gibson Tobias bass before as its OEM screws had a larger diameter than the Schallers).

Alembic has a source for even smaller ones as used for truss rod and control plates, but I found nothing that small on the net.

Thanks in advance!

newuser · « **Reply #38 on:** August 06, 2007, 04:29:24 PM »

So the inserts showed up and just in time as this morning I was able to pull the Schaller stub and wood screw out with no effort. The 6-32s are the way to go. Since the bass has a Rogue body shape I had to get a drill that can swivel. Then I took a practice run on a scrap of wood. Next I drilled the 1/4" hole for the insert. Be sure to read Mica's post in the FAQ: (Information Related to All Instruments) Installing threaded inserts Carefully insert the insert

I chose not to use Mica's method. I wanted a 'fix' that can be removed w/o drilling an even larger hole (although I imagine you could use a tap and dye set to remove inserts installed the right way). So instead I carefully worked an insert 3/4 of the way in, then backed it out and disposed of it. You guessed it, as careful as I was the slots started to lift and tear. The second insert went all the way in and a little more as per E-Z LOK's instructions (1/16" below the surface). I threaded a small lock washer, then the Schaller stub, then a 1/4" nylon plumbing washer and screwed it all up. Hoorah! All is now well. For the heck of it I used a Q-tip to SPARINGLY put a little ProLink chain lube (a "dry" lube for bicycle chains) on the stub and the U shaped channel. If you try this please be careful, the fumes are not pleasant, I don't think it would do the finish any good (when applying to chains I try not to let it drip on my tires as from experience I believe it causes the kevlar bead to fail prematurely), and you really don't want it to get on the fingerboard or your strap. Check list: Brass Threaded inserts @ 6-32s steel bolts 6-32 1/4" drill bit, swivel head drill if working on Rogue shaped basses right angle ratching screw drivers if working on Rogue shaped basses tiny lock washers 1/4" nylon washer Pics done with cellphone-cam, sorry.

Drill and Bass

First Insert

Right angle ratching screw driver

Inserted

Constituent parts

Done!

newuser · « **Reply #39 on:** August 06, 2007, 04:35:38 PM »

Oops! That should read ratcheting not ratching.

David Houck · « **Reply #40 on:** August 06, 2007, 07:48:26 PM »

With pictures!

xlrogue6 · « **Reply #41 on:** August 07, 2007, 10:08:10 AM »

I just did the low tech fix on the upper button on my fretted Rogue, this time using plastic epoxy.(I've tried numerous adhesives to hold the dowels in place, best results so far from standard epoxy, which lasted a couple of years.) I'll try Dan's method the next time things loosen up. Good to know there's another 6 string Alembic playing cyclist on the board. Personally, I like Finish Line on my chains...

valvil · « **Reply #42 on:** August 09, 2007, 11:46:51 PM »

I just found a new (to me) type of straplock that I really like. Easiest by far to install on a strap and very secure, I'd say way better and safer than Schaller or Dunlop, and better looking and reasonably priced to boot.

Zeppelinn ( yes 2 'n's ) is the name of the brand. Couldn't find a website for them but here's a link to a store that carries them.
http://www.zzounds.com/item--MUPZSL600

Similar concept to the Dunlop but has a different way of mounting on the strap; also the release happens when you pull on the straplock between the strap and the body of the instrument, so there's no chance of accidentally releasing it. The screw that secures the part that goes on the strap is long and if for some reason it starts loosening, you can rest easy, there's no way you won't notice it ages before it happens.

Highly recommended.

Valentino

georgie_boy · « **Reply #43 on:** August 10, 2007, 08:14:20 AM »

I've been using the Schallers for years now.
When I got my Series 1 some 7 years ago, all I did was remove the Alembic studs, fit the Shallers to the strap, and insert the ORIGINAL screw back into the body of the guitar, with the new strap locks------------so simple!
Never had a problem.
I do however, like most people, check that the nut on the strap is good and secure.

G

bracheen · « **Reply #44 on:** August 10, 2007, 10:48:59 AM »

I'm another one in the Schaller camp. I have them on two basses and a guitar. The only issue I have is the strap holes tend to be smaller that the threaded lock post and have to be trimmed. More a nuisence than a problem.